How does the stove work?
In cars with body numbers E120 and E150 2012 and some other years of production, the heater is designed almost identically, so maintenance and care do not make any fundamental difference.
If the stove fan whistles, the heating system itself has stopped working, the air has stopped circulating properly, or, conversely, the device heats up when it is not required, it is worth checking the stove radiator.
For example, let's look at how the heater works on a 2003 Toyota Corolla E12. This model is quite old, so the arrangement of its elements is simple. It is worth noting that cars in the 100 and 110 bodies have the same heater design. Problems appear over time, most often these are the following problems:
- The heater fan does not work on the Toyota.
- In general, the stove does not work.
- Air enters only from one side.
- There is a coolant leak.
- The stove does not heat well, or not all of its modes work.
- The radiator supplies moist air.
- The motor has failed.
- An unpleasant odor appeared.
- The heater cannot turn on.
Toyota Camry 2.5 4door. sedan, 181 hp, 6 automatic transmission, 2021 - increased fuel consumption
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| Check the condition of the air filter replacement element | Blow or replace the air filter element | |
| Leaking power system | Smell of gasoline, fuel leaks | Check the tightness of the connections of the fuel system elements; If a malfunction is detected, replace the corresponding components |
| Spark plugs are faulty: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the heat cone, poor contact of the central electrode | Spark plugs are checked on a special stand at a service station. The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on the inverted spark plug does not allow us to draw a conclusion about its functionality | Replace spark plugs |
| Throttle actuator malfunction | Check the travel of the gas pedal, the clearance in the drive (free play of the pedal), make sure that the cable and pedal are not jammed | Replace faulty parts, lubricate the cable with engine oil |
| The idle speed controller or its circuits are faulty | Replace the regulator with a known good one. | Replace the faulty regulator |
| The throttle valve does not close completely | The gap between the throttle valve and the walls of the housing is visible in the light | Replace the throttle assembly |
| Increased pressure in the fuel line due to a faulty pressure regulator | Check the pressure in the fuel system with a pressure gauge (no more than 3.5 bar) | Replace the faulty regulator |
| Leaking injectors | Check the injectors | Replace faulty injectors |
| The coolant temperature sensor or its circuit is faulty | Check the sensor resistance with an ohmmeter at different temperatures | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| The oxygen concentration sensor is faulty | You can evaluate the performance of the oxygen concentration sensor and the reliability of its electrical circuit connections using diagnostic equipment at a service station | Restore damaged electrical circuits, replace faulty sensor |
| The ECU or its circuits are faulty | To check, replace the ECU with a known good one. | Replace the faulty ECU, restore damaged electrical circuits |
| Low compression in the engine cylinders (less than 11.0 bar): clearances in the drive are not adjusted, wear or damage to the valves, their guides and seats, stuck or broken piston rings | Check compression | Adjust the clearances in the valve drive. Replace faulty parts |
| The throttle position sensor, absolute pressure and air temperature sensors in the intake manifold or their circuits are faulty | Check the sensors and their circuits | Restore contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor(s) |
| Increased resistance to gas movement in the exhaust system | Inspect the exhaust system for dented or damaged pipes, check the condition of the catalytic converter | Replace damaged exhaust system components |
| Malfunctions of the chassis and brake system | Check the chassis and brake system | Adjust the wheel alignment angles, replace faulty chassis parts, and troubleshoot the brake system. |
Reasons for high fuel consumption
There are several common mistakes that inexperienced drivers make that lead to excessive fuel consumption. Remember that excess gasoline or diesel fuel will be consumed when:
The operation of the air conditioner or climate control system. The operation of these devices is related to the operation of the compressor. After all, to rotate the pump pulley, energy is required, which is taken from the rotating crankshaft. And it requires additional fuel. The operation of the heating system. This applies not only to the operation of the “stove”, but also to heated seats, windows and mirrors (in cars where these options are provided). The logic here is similar to the situation described above. Sharp acceleration. If you like to pull away quickly at traffic lights or other places, then be prepared for the fact that your car will consume more fuel than usual. This is due to the fact that any transient process (in this case, setting the machine in motion) is associated with increased energy consumption. And the sharper it is, the more energy is needed. Therefore, try to move off smoothly. This way you will not only save fuel, but also save tires, clutch and power unit components. Engine running at high speeds. Try not to over-gas. This will not only save fuel for your car, but will also have a positive effect on the overall performance of the engine. Using low-quality fuel. Try to refuel at trusted gas stations and fill the tank with the brand of fuel recommended by the car manufacturer. After all, bad fuel burns worse, provides insufficient energy and requires additional energy consumption.
Technical reasons for increased fuel consumption
First, let's look at the technical problems that contribute to increased gas mileage in a car. Let's find out the most common reasons related to the engine and other elements that increase consumption.
Engine wear
Usually occurs due to high mileage of the car or due to improper use. Some points related to engine operation:
coolant temperature is lower than calculated; wear of the cylinder-piston group; wear of the crank mechanism; wear of the gas distribution mechanism and unadjusted valve clearances.
Clutch wear
When the driver needs to keep high revs in order to get off the road and switch to a higher gear, this directly affects fuel consumption. In this case, replacing the clutch will help.
One of the reasons for increased fuel consumption is clutch disc wear. The situation here is quite simple. During the starting process, the engine consumes more fuel than at constant speed. This fact is present even with a working clutch. If the disk or other parts of the system are faulty, then it turns out that fuel is consumed, and the car stands still. The more often the car starts moving, the greater the excess fuel consumption occurs.
In critical cases, a similar situation can occur even when driving in constant mode. That is, when the clutch disc does not ensure synchronous rotation of the engine and gearbox. This situation, although rare, can happen in the most “neglected” cases.
Diagnosing clutch wear is quite simple. To do this, you need to put the car on the handbrake, engage fifth or fourth gear (depending on the gearbox, that is, the highest) and try to get going. If you do not turn off the engine with gas, this means that the clutch needs to be repaired or completely replaced.
Ignition set incorrectly
Incorrectly set ignition also causes increased fuel consumption. In particular, if the engine “troubles”, then gasoline from the idle cylinder is released directly into the exhaust system. This leads not only to excessive fuel consumption, but also to increased wear of the catalyst.
If the ignition is simply set incorrectly, then a situation arises when the fuel does not burn completely. That is, a spark occurs before the fuel mixture appears in the cylinder in full, or after that. In any case, this leads to its incomplete combustion. This automatically means that fuel is wasted.
Therefore, always monitor the condition of the ignition system. The amount of fuel consumed directly depends on this. In addition, an incorrectly configured ignition system can cause problems when starting the engine.
Tire wear
If the tires are worn out enough or the pressure in them is less than normal, this will also lead to the car starting to “eat” more than it should. In such a situation, it is necessary to replace the tires and regularly check the tire pressure. Low-profile tires with a wide tread create increased resistance and, accordingly, increased fuel consumption.
Malfunctions of the brake system They are different, let’s consider those that lead to incomplete release of the calipers, when the so-called “wedging” occurs. If the caliper is not fully unclenched, then over time not only the brake pads, but also the discs become unusable. Due to excessive friction and resistance, fuel consumption naturally increases.
Broken spark plugs
Due to unsuitable spark plugs, the car does not operate correctly, which results in additional load on the engine. This leads not only to high fuel consumption, but also to a general deterioration in performance. To avoid this, you need to check the spark plugs. Such a check includes examining the color of carbon deposits, measuring the electrode gap, and checking the resistor for breakdown. It is also worth paying attention to the junction of the white insulator to the threaded part of the spark plug - a red coating is unacceptable.
Clogged injectors or carburetor
Clogged injectors are one of the most common causes of excessive fuel consumption. They become clogged due to natural causes. These include the use of low-quality gasoline, untimely replacement of the fuel filter, dirt getting into the engine compartment, and so on.
When the injectors are clogged, the shape of the fuel spray pattern in the combustion chamber is disrupted. Because of this, the formation of the fuel mixture is disrupted. That is, this process uses more gasoline than is necessary under normal conditions.
In some cases, due to clogged injectors, the engine may begin to “trouble.” This is expressed in a decrease in the dynamic characteristics of the car. It is also possible for the engine to operate for a long time at high speeds, even in idle mode. This naturally leads to increased fuel consumption.
Similar reasoning is valid for cars with a carburetor engine. When the carburetor becomes clogged, the same situation arises with excessive consumption of gasoline and a drop in dynamic characteristics.
Therefore, always monitor the condition of the fuel system, in particular, the injectors on an injection engine and the carburetor on a carburetor. Their clogging is a direct cause of excessive fuel consumption.
Low-octane fuel also has a great effect on consumption (low price and poor quality come with quantity).
Damage to the lambda probe or mass air flow sensor
Failure of the oxygen sensor (lambda probe) can also lead to significant excess fuel consumption. Its task is to control the amount of oxygen that goes into the fuel mixture. Therefore, if this sensor is faulty, the mixture will be created incorrectly, and this will lead to excessive fuel consumption.
The lambda probe is quite fragile. There are a number of reasons why it can fail. Among them:
depressurization of its body and penetration of exhaust gases into it; overheating of the sensor (this may be caused by incorrect operation of the ignition system); natural aging and wear; problems with the car's electrical network; mechanical damage to the sensor. Similar reasoning applies to the mass air flow sensor (MAF). It is designed to regulate the level of air supply to the engine cylinders. Sensor malfunctions are easy to identify. As a rule, in this case the engine begins to operate unstably, especially at idle (very high or low “jumping” speeds), loss of dynamic characteristics (the car accelerates poorly). The mass air flow sensor cannot be repaired. It can only be replaced, although cleaning it may temporarily correct the situation.
Clogged air filter
The recommended replacement frequency is every 15,000 km. Timely replacement of the air filter is required, because if it is clogged and you ignore it, then be prepared for the car to have a good appetite.
Consumption is also affected by the use of air filter elements with heavy fabric pre-cleaners, since, as in the case of a clogged filter, air resistance increases. Lightweight filter elements are recommended to minimize air flow resistance.
Specifications
Technical parameters of Toyota Camry 2.5 / Toyota Camry in a 4-door body. sedan with 181 hp engine, 6 automatic transmission, produced from 2021
Basic data
- Start of production:
January 2017 - End of production:
in production
- Body:
4 doors sedan
Engine
- Fuel brand: Gasoline AI-95
- Engine capacity, cubic meters see: 2494
- Valves per cylinder: 4
- Power, hp: 181
- Achieved at vol. per minute: 6000
- Torque, Nm/rev. in min.: 231/4100
- Maximum speed, km/h: 210
- Acceleration time to 100 km/h, sec.: 9
- Fuel consumption (combined cycle), l. per 100 km: 8.3
- Fuel consumption (in the city), l. per 100 km: 11.5
- Fuel consumption (outside the city), l. per 100 km: 6.4
- Engine layout: front, transverse
- Power system: injector
- Cylinder diameter, mm: 90
- Piston stroke, mm: 98
- CO2 exhaust, g/km: 183
- Compression ratio: 10.4
Drive unit
- Drive type: Front
Transmission
- Transmission: Automatic
- Number of steps: 6
Suspension
- Front: Independent - McPherson
- Rear: Independent - multi-link
Brakes
- Front: Ventilated disc
- Rear: Disc
Dimensions
- Length, mm: 4885
- Width, mm: 1840
- Height, mm: 1445
- Wheelbase, mm: 2825
- Front wheel track, mm: 1600
- Rear wheel track, mm: 1620
- Ground clearance, mm: 155
Other
- Number of seats: 5
- Tire size: 215/60 R16
- Curb weight, kg: 1555
- Permissible weight, kg: 2030
- Trunk volume, l: 493
- Fuel tank volume, l: 60
- Turning diameter, m: 11.4
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How to repair?
Only by disassembling the device can you determine exactly why it does not work. Before removing the radiator, check that the relay is working properly; The fuse is less likely to blow. If this is the cause, cleaning or repair may not be necessary.
For ease of work, it is advisable to remove all foreign objects from the interior. In order to remove the heater on the King, you will need to remove the dashboard, otherwise you will not be able to get the heater core. You need to start removing the center panel from the driver's side. Please note that for the 100th body this place is on the right side. The nuts are usually stuck and need to be treated with WD-40.
It is impossible to get to the stove fan without removing the drive rod. It is necessary to remove the rod from under the fixing brackets, disconnect all the cables, and turn off the crane control lever.
The design of the heater fan switch in Toyota Corolla 2008, 2012 is simple, but putting the device back together is quite difficult. It is recommended to take photographs of everything during disassembly.
In addition to the cable, all levers must be removed, otherwise they will interfere with disassembling the structure. A screwdriver will be useful for removing the spring latch, after which you can remove the radiator casing and pull the heater out of the casing. Once you can disassemble it, you can make the necessary repairs and flush the system. Quite often, the heating device does not heat up well or may stop blowing due to the fact that it is clogged with dirt.
Less commonly, the radiator may need to be replaced. By removing it, you can repair the heater valve or replace it. Check the location of the pipes, replace old ones with new ones, as cracks may be observed. If the radiator is in good condition, it can be reinstalled. Next you need to check the motor. This part is quite vulnerable and can fail more often than others. The electric motor is fixed using a special plate, which is easy to remove - just pry it off with a screwdriver. Remove the impeller from the motor shaft; You will also have to remove the spring clips as they hold the engine in place.
It is better to immediately replace the additional resistor. The stove motor can be reached through a special hole in the stove casing.
The easiest way is to replace the entire engine.
It's hard to find parts for it, even if you have a 2012 car, let alone an older E12.
Often, car enthusiasts are in a hurry to disassemble the stove to make repairs or cleaning, and forget to check the rheostat. If the problem is there, which often happens, there is no need to completely disassemble the device. Most often, you can diagnose a malfunction if you notice that the switch modes have stopped working. You need to look for the rheostat behind the stove fan. It is always located on the passenger side. You can get to it through the air duct; there is no need to remove the fan. For ease of operation, you will need to remove the on-board computer casing: to do this you only need to unscrew a few screws. The rheostat is usually not repaired, but replaced completely.
Auto repair school – DIY car repair
Dec 14, 2021 Tips by admin
Why doesn't the stove heat up? In autumn and winter, this question is asked more often than others. What could be the reason, frozen motorists ask. In principle, there may be several reasons. But, the main and main reason for the cool air in the car interior is the heater radiator itself. And there is a quick and simple method, consisting of several steps, to check the health of the stove radiator. This method or method (as you prefer) is not new and is known to many, but I think not to everyone. Therefore, it is quite possible that this material with a description of the diagnostics of the stove radiator will be of interest to someone. At the very least, I really hope so))). I’ll say right away that there is nothing complicated in this matter. Even a novice car enthusiast can handle it. Interested? Let's assume that yes))) Let's continue...
First step . To begin with, we check the presence and condition of coolant in the expansion tank or in the cooling radiator. If the fluid is not visible and its level is below the MIN mark, then be sure to add antifreeze to the system up to the MAX mark (well, it can be between MAX and MIN). This must be done, because if the level of antifreeze in the cooling system is low, the heater radiator may simply not have enough fluid.
Next, pay attention to the condition of the coolant ! It is important. If the antifreeze is clean and has its original color (red, blue, green), then everything is okay. You can breathe out, because there is one less thing to worry about. If, however, the color of the liquid in the expansion tank is difficult to identify or it is rusty, black with sand grains present, then this is already an alarm bell, which makes it clear that the engine cooling system is in danger. Since such a liquid can cause destruction of the engine cylinder head, pump, cooling and heating radiator. Also, this dirty slurry can easily clog the channels of both the cooling radiator and the heater radiator! That's why, in this situation, you can start to worry.
Second diagnostic step . Let's start the engine. Warming up. We try the cooling radiator with our hands. If the engine warms up to operating temperature (80-90 degrees) and only after that the cooling radiator becomes hot, then everything is fine with the thermostat. It does its job perfectly, and a stove with such a thermostat warms up the car interior much more efficiently. If the cooling radiator begins to warm up at a temperature of 40, 50, 60 degrees, then this is a sign of a faulty thermostat. In such cases, they say that the thermostat opens early. And that's bad. There is only one way out in this situation - replacing the thermostat . Otherwise, the most you can count on when turning on the stove is warm air, which won’t bring you much joy in the winter!
Step number three . The thermostat is normal or you have replaced it. The car is completely warmed up. Set the interior temperature regulator to the “WARM” position. Turn on the stove fan. How does it feel? A little warm? Chill? Or is it pleasantly warm in the first couple of minutes, and then cool? If so, then we go to the engine compartment. We find two pipes of the heater radiator and try each of them by hand. If their temperatures are different, then the reason has been found! The heater radiator is simply clogged with debris and needs to be changed or washed (it doesn’t always help, but if it’s an expensive job to remove and install the heater radiator, it’s worth a try).
And for example. I disassemble the heater radiator, which heated (well, gave warm air) for the first 1 or 2 minutes. And the car owner kept repeating: “ Why doesn’t the stove heat up? ”
