Toyota Corolla 1.6 4door. sedan, 124 hp, 6 manual transmission, 2010 – 2013 - high engine oil consumption

Oil for Toyota Corolla is selected taking into account the type of engine, its condition and climatic conditions. The legendary Japanese compact car has been produced since 1966; just 8 years after its launch, the model entered the Guinness Book of Records as the best-selling car in the world. The model has been supplied to Russia since the fourth generation, and the twelfth generation is already on sale today.

Over the entire existence of the car, a huge number of engines have been designed, mostly gasoline, but there are also several diesel power units. In this article we present oils recommended by the manufacturer, as well as analog lubricants.

About tolerances

Gasoline engines:

• 1AZ-FE, 1NR-FE, 2ZR-FE, 1ZR-FE, 4ZZ-FE, 3ZZ-FE, 2ZZ-GE, 4A-FE, 2E, 4E-FE,

Diesel engines:

• 2C-E, 2C, 2C-III, 1C-III

According to API, gasoline engines should be filled with a lubricant of at least SL or SM. In new and relatively new cars (manufactured from 2021 inclusive) it is worth pouring exclusively synthetic material with API quality SN. It is advisable to convert used engines to semi-synthetics.

Original oil

First of all, you should look at the car’s service book, which contains information about the preferred engine oil in terms of quality class and viscosity index. For example, the instructions for the Toyota Corolla 150 indicate that liquid with a viscosity index of 10W-30, 5W-30, 5W-20, 0W-20 according to SAE should be poured.

In principle, the original Toyota SN oil according to the API can be poured into absolutely any gasoline engine or universal ILSAC fluid.

Approved analogues by tolerance

Toyota Corolla 1.6 4door. sedan, 124 hp, 6 manual transmission, 2010 – 2013 – high engine oil consumption

Increased engine oil consumption

Reasons for high oil consumption

In the engine of any vehicle, lubricants are one way or another consumed over time without a trace. This is explained by the inevitable entry of these agents into the combustion chamber from the cylinder walls, with crankcase gases or along the valve rods. Oil consumption depends on the design features of the vehicle.

Oil consumption rate In traditional engines, the consumption level should be from 0.1 to 0.3% of total fuel consumption. If fuel consumption is 10 liters, then the optimal level of lubricant consumption will be 10-30 grams of oil per 100 km. Thus, it is quite acceptable if the consumption does not exceed 3 liters per 10 thousand kilometers.

For forced turbo engines, especially with several turbines, the permissible level of oil consumption will be from 0.8 to 3% of fuel consumption. This oil consumption depends on the speed at which the engine operates most of the time. The more revolutions are made, the greater the fuel and oil consumption observed. Each car owner can independently determine what constitutes increased oil consumption for his car.

Incorrectly selected engine oil viscosity and internal leaks as causes of oil waste.

Often, the presence of increased oil consumption may be due to the following reasons:

external leakage, which means leakage through seals and gaskets; internal oil leakage, which is called waste. A leak of any kind must be repaired as quickly as possible, as this is a matter of operational safety.

External leaks. What are they and what should you do to detect them?

An external leak can usually be easily identified by drops of oil under the vehicle.

Sources of external leakage:

Gasket under the valve cover. This type of leak is one of the most common. The top of the engine is one of the hottest parts of the engine, and the gasket materials age quite quickly. In addition, the valve mechanism is often disassembled during repair work. Removing and reinstalling the valve cover has an extremely negative impact on the durability of the gaskets. The head gasket leaks quite rarely. Pan gasket. It rarely leaks, usually due to loose fasteners and aging gaskets, but this type of leak is one of the most difficult to eliminate, since on some cars the engine itself must be removed to remove the pan. Front cover gasket. A rare type of leak, but also unpleasant due to the tightness in the engine compartment of modern car models. This fact causes certain difficulties when replacing the gasket. Oil seals. Leakage can also occur through the seals: front and rear crankshaft, camshaft seal. The oil seals begin to leak oil due to their natural wear. If the car's mileage exceeds 150,000 km, then special attention should be paid to the seals. The front oil seal can throw oil onto the timing belt. The rear oil seal leads to oiling of the clutch. Both are unacceptable. In the event of a leak at the junction of the engine and gearbox, the question arises where exactly the leak comes from, causing such a huge number of problems. Determining this is quite simple: you need to take a drop of leaked oil and apply it to the surface of the water. If the droplet spreads like a rainbow film over the surface, then the leak is from the gearbox. Oil filter seal. The gasket of a cartridge-type filter can be punctured, especially when starting the engine at low temperatures. There can be two reasons: either poor filter quality or a malfunction of the oil line bypass valve.

There is also one rare case - a simultaneous small leak from all oil seals and engine connections. This is often the reason why the engine literally “sweats”, causing oil to leak out in huge quantities.

In this case, the leakage is not related to the quality of the seals. This indicates that the crankcase gas pressure is too high. The reason for this pressure lies in the condition of the internal parts of the engine. Increased pressure of crankcase gases is determined by active smoke from the crankcase ventilation tube. This problem can be eliminated by cleaning the crankcase ventilation system or, in advanced cases, by overhauling damaged engines.

It is believed that too thin or too thick an oil level will cause the oil film formed by the oil scraper ring to be too thin or too thick.

A film that is too thin does not seal the combustion chamber well, causing oil droplets to break through into the combustion chamber along with crankcase gases. The oil burns - hence the unreasonably increased level of consumption. Too much viscosity causes the piston rings to “float” and also contributes to too high a flow rate. Contamination of the fuel system contributes to a decrease in the viscosity of engine oil; in this case, the fuel enters the oil along the cylinder walls, and the resulting mixture actively burns, causing consumption of more than necessary.

We are starting the publication of “Notes of the Moscow Provincial”, since it seemed to the editors that in his thoughts there are both controversial and interesting cases and facts. The described “real life” case, as they say, is quite fantastic at first glance, but... let’s not rush to conclusions, because at the end of the article there is a statement on the article. Also from Life. So, we read: ...I’ve never been involved in “hand-crafting”, but I decided to try, because only now “everything inside has let go” and I began to look at my “swallow” with more and more respect, and wipe it more often. It all started six months ago, when I decided to buy a Toyota based on a newspaper ad. I spent a long time choosing, rejected (with the help of my friends) several cars and settled on a Toyota Corolla Sprinter with a one and a half liter 5E-FE engine. The mileage of the car was amazing, only about 60 thousand, the condition of the engine was also excellent - all clean, as if it had just come from the assembly line, and everything inside the cabin was up to standard, in a word - “got it”. And everything was fine until the trip to the Smolensk region. Because when I returned and checked (completely by accident) the oil level in the engine, I became thoughtful... I remember that the level was at the top mark. Previously. A month ago when I was filling up the oil. And now the level was a centimeter and a half lower. But I didn’t get upset, I just made a “note in my head” and continued to use my “swallow” just as intensively, studying the Moscow roads (I’ll tell you about this later, it’s interesting!) and enjoying beautiful music in “traffic jams”... But there was a “bell” and I have already begun to check the oil level more often, check and, with growing fear, make sure that it is “going away” somewhere. I work in an organization where the vast majority of employees have a higher automotive education - this is where there is scope for theoretical “delights”! There were many options, and for the first time I chose the most painless one: “The oil “burns.” Cause? But it doesn’t suit its composition. Indeed, the oil that was poured was a little “wrong,” because the books recommended 10w30 with certain letters in front, but it wasn’t found in the store, so 10w40 with “approximately” the same letters in front was purchased and filled in. As they assured me in the store in an authoritative tone: “It’s okay!” I decided to change the oil. I spent a long time looking for it in stores, because almost nowhere there was exactly what I wanted, 10w30, only 10w40 was always offered, and only one car store accidentally found “mine.” Filled it up. And with secret hope I continued to drive, afraid for some time to check the oil level, because inside someone persistently convinced me that everything was fine, that was the reason, “don’t worry”! But a little later I checked and... Yes, the level “gone” again. And then there was no time for thoughtfulness, because panic and frustration began to grow, which, naturally, the wife noticed and inquired about the reason. And having learned everything, she shrugged: “Sell. Let's take a new one." Amazing woman! I expected everything: reproaches, insults, because I chose and responsibility for this incomprehensible reason, which means I should also bear it, and she just like that, just... Well, oh well. This inspired me a little and added confidence and anger: “We need to find a reason!” I must say that I am an ordinary “Moscow provincial” and it just so happened that, by the will of Fate, I had to live and work in the Far East for a long time. And there everything was much simpler, because in a small town everyone knew each other and car repairs, if required, took place at the level of acquaintances. Here is the Megapolis and where to go, where to go with your repairs, who to entrust your “swallow” to - it’s hard to decide... There are many workshops, simply “immeasurable”, almost at every step and in almost every one there is “computer diagnostics”. It was from this moment that my study and understanding of the word “car repair in Moscow” began. No, I want to say in advance that I don’t want to offend anyone, I will tell everything as it is, as it was, and it’s up to you to decide whether to smile or frown when reading my “provincial torment.” I want to say right away that I will not give the addresses of the workshops, because so far I have only studied such words and streets as “New Arbat”, “Vozdvizhenka”, “Taganskaya Square”, because it is in these directions that I have to take my wife to work and back. Everything else is still “in the fog” for me, and when they start calling me such streets as “Lenivka” or “Kamenny Bridge”, I fall into a stupor and start looking through the windshield with a stupid sheep’s gaze... In the first workshop, when I went there After an hour of waiting in line, where I had previously signed up by phone (service!), a feeling of some growing confidence stirred in my chest that “my problem is small, they will find everything here and fix it.” Because everything sparkled inside: the tiled floor, the lifts, the computer screens. And smiling faces! How different it was from those Far Eastern workshops! Not a speck of dust, not a speck of dust, and the air itself seemed to add to the confidence that here and only here my machine would be made healthier. Quickly and quickly, the Diagnostician's assistant connected some kind of cable to the machine and then they all stared at the large monitor. Their faces were thoughtful and attentive. Turning away from the monitor, the Diagnostician asked me what exactly my problem was? - I told you... - oh, butter, - he chewed his lips, looked somewhere in the corner, - well, what can I tell you, my dear... He took me by the elbow and led me around the car, at the same time telling me: - Everything is yours It's fine in the car. This is electronically I mean. Everything is normal and worrying that there is something inside you in the electronic part or in some of its systems or that, for example, that they may someday arise, no, there is no need to worry about that, because we checked everything and concluded that everything in your electronic engine control system, absolutely everything is normal... I tried to interrupt him, but he raised his finger: “And everything is fine in your ignition system too, here, let’s go to the computer , there look at the printout on the operation of your ignition... I stopped: - Listen, I don’t need to know how my ignition works, I need to find out the reason for the oil “leaving”, do you understand? - Yes, my dear, yes, I understand everything, I’m just telling you now about your engine control system... - What about the oil? - Oils? And there is nothing unclear here. Believe me, if we have thoroughly figured out that everything is fine in your electronic engine control system, that your ignition system is working normally and there are no complaints about either the first or the second, then solving the oil issue is... He spread his hands and smiled kindly: “It’s all simple.” I don’t consider myself “dumb” about cars, I regularly read car magazines, because I’m sure that every man should be able to at least replace spark plugs, but what I heard in the next few minutes added to my confusion, because this Diagnostician told me in detail about the reasons for my oil consumption and the conclusion was disappointing. - Yes, unfortunately, my dear, unfortunately... - So... sell? -What other way out do you see? For example, I don’t see it. Of course, you can first change the oil seals (for some reason I previously thought that they were called “oil seals”), then, if that doesn’t help, the oil scraper rings, but... will this solve your problem? I'm personally not sure. So, unfortunately... He turned to the assistant: - Come on, bring in the next client! “Gloomier than a cloud” - this is approximately how I came home and looked at my wife. He shrugged: “We checked everything.” They told me to sell it. - Or maybe you should go somewhere else? -Where else should we go? Do you know what equipment they have there? Wow! ...but after a few days, having calmed down, I decided to visit another workshop. In my “glove compartment” I already had a folder with a printout from the first workshop, and I didn’t know then how much this folder would swell during the entire time I was “searching for the truth.” After the second workshop, my mood did not improve, because there, in addition to “computer diagnostics”, they also checked the condition of the cylinder “mirror” on my car and added another “fly in the ointment” to my former “honey” post-purchase condition: - “Honu” end. And this cannot be cured. And they explained to me, the “dark one,” what “honing” is and how it affects engine performance and oil consumption. “Gloomier than a square cloud,” - in this state I drank beer this evening and looked out the dark Moscow window. Yes, if I had the money, I would sell this “swallow” to hell, add a little and buy a new one. On the one side. On the other hand: how to sell a “killed” car? It’s not in good conscience, you know... And then the call came. A friend from the Far East. Arriving tomorrow. He asked to meet him, because “he wouldn’t take the caviar to the south.” I met him while we were driving from airport to airport, we talked, he nodded, and then his face brightened: “Listen, what are you worried about?” Our Far Eastern worker is working somewhere here in Moscow! He specializes in diagnostics, specializing in cars. “Yeah,” I nodded, “here, in Moscow”... Do you have any idea what it is - Moscow? What kind of metropolis is this? “Wait, wait…” he rummaged in his pockets, “here, look, here’s his phone, though it’s an old cell phone... Day after day, week after week.” The daddy in the glove compartment was getting fatter. I had already become a real “stubborn” madman, drove through one workshop after another, carefully put the results of “computer diagnostics” in a folder, continued to be upset, but... for some reason I did not lose hope. Something was “warming” inside me. It’s not clear what, just “Hope” and that’s it. The Internet, car conferences, correspondence with the same “poor souls” like me, regular trips and searches for a workshop where everything would be “decided correctly and calmed me down” began to “eat up” my not so rich budget so rapidly that the household expense item began to swell proportionally along with daddy in the glove compartment. In the evenings, I laid out papers from the workshops on my desk, looked at them, remembered the words of the Diagnostics, the categorical conclusions of my new acquaintances from the Internet and realized that I would have to sell. Have to? “Why don’t you call this...Far Easterner?” my wife once asked. - Why should I call him? He will say the same thing. - Well, still? My wife is persistent. Smart girl. And I called. “Let’s meet,” he suggested and named the place. Surprisingly, I somehow immediately felt a “kindred spirit” in him. You know, the Far Eastern long Life still leaves its own, unique imprint. “Let’s look at your papers,” he asked, took the daddy and began to look at it... Then he asked to open the hood, got out, and began to listen to the engine. Then he went up to the exhaust pipe, squatted down and listened to something there for a long, long time. He smeared it with his finger and looked. He looked at me and smiled: “Shall we talk?” I don’t remember how long we talked. But for a long time. And the longer I told him everything, answered clarifying questions, the more clearly I began to understand that “not everything was lost”; a logical chain of “malfunction” began to form in my head. Indeed, when I drove around the city, the oil remained at the same level. At least a month, but around the city, and then the Nikul oil did not “go away”. And as soon as I went “on the highway,” for example, to the same Smolensk region, that’s it, the oil quickly “ran away” and the consumption was staggering: 500 grams per 500 kilometers. He once again got out of the car in order to kneel down and look somewhere under the engine. Then he sat down in the lounge and lit a cigarette. I looked at the papers. He found the one he needed and said: “Well... look, here... what is written here?” Relative power. What is yours? We look at the cylinders: 100 - 98 - 100 - 98. Let's start with this. If you had "loss of hone" do you think the power would remain the same? Next...when was the last time you were on the “track”, how long ago? Has the oil gone? Gone. And when you “just” drive around the city, is everything okay? He spoke in short, choppy phrases and smiled. And I really felt better. I began to understand that... everything was already clear to him! Are you kidding! And he continues to talk and ask: “And what conclusion would you draw yourself?” Well, speaking “purely logically”. Compare. If on the highway, the oil runs out. If in the city everything is fine. You yourself said that if you travel in the city for at least a month, everything is fine. And as soon as you get on the track, everything “goes away.” So? “Everything is correct...” I answered, but still did not understand what he was driving at. — At idle, did you look closely at the color of the exhaust? We looked closely... is everything okay? Fine. And if you accelerate sharply after idling, there is no blue exhaust? No. If you accelerate in place and for a long time, there is no blue exhaust? Also no. The logic of his reasoning was incomprehensible to me, but I listened to him with interest. And...so far I didn’t understand anything. And he asked: “And what follows from this?” He shrugged: “Only as an option for now.” Let's go. We got out of the car, he sat down in front of the hood and asked: “Bend over.” Look. Naturally, I didn’t see anything. Where should I look? — Take a closer look at the exhaust pipe. How is it worth for you? - It’s worth normal... - No, not quite normal. Look, it’s just “lying” on your crankcase. And her “protection” has “moved away” somewhere. Do you understand now what the possible reason is? No, I don't understand yet. Shrugged. — And your oil simply boils away when operating at high speeds. The pipe is “red”, the oil is “boiling”. And when in the city, the constant turnover is not very high... - So what to do? — Most likely, you took a slightly “bumped” car. Hit from below. You need to put it on a lift and try to bend the pipe so that it is in its “home” place. And return the “protection” to its place. “So what...” I looked at him and didn’t believe, “and what, everything will become normal?” - I told you: “As an option.” Do it and then call. “Okay,” I nodded, “how much do I owe you?” He smiled again and, wiping his hands with a rag, asked: “What, in Moscow they take money for this?” Well, what can I say next... I did everything as he said. But I didn’t believe it. Because...it can’t be! I visited so many car repair shops and the answer was the same everywhere. And daddy is in the glove compartment... On Saturday we went to visit our relatives in the Smolensk region. I was sitting on pins and needles. Even my wife noticed: “Why are you fidgeting!” I checked the oil level there. And when he returned, too. And I didn’t believe it. Because everything was top-notch. And I checked for another month after that. I checked several times a day. I checked it and didn’t believe it, and at one time I even wanted the level to be lower, because I couldn’t believe that so easily, without “computer diagnostics”, without “sophisticated” devices and so on, you could find a fault that they couldn’t figure out. in a dozen car services! Everything turned out to be correct, all his assumptions turned out to be a “bullseye shot”. …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… …………………….

Editor's note: Dmitry Yurievich (mek) told a similar story, which, however, happened on his Russian car. There, too, the pipe was lying on the collector. And so, when he went to visit his relatives (700 miles there and back), after the trip he had to add a liter or a little more. But when I drove around the city, everything was fine.

Car repair books

Unreal oil consumption

Consumption is about 1 liter. by 2 t.km. I add a liter a month! Lil Castrol 10W-40/5W-40 (Summer/Winter). '98, 4A. No stains. Please advise what to do? Maybe there are recommendations from spasio specialists. In salons I come across stupid scams.

There are 28 replies to this topic

I won’t give specific advice, I’ll just say that in the summer, at 6,000 km, I added about 300-400 grams of oil. I think you have problems with the engine. No stains means it's eating inside, look at the rings.

And before the rings, look at the spark plugs, after a good run on the highway

I had a similar problem with oil (engine 4a, 1997 year). At first I added 100-150 grams per week, then after a long trip (

600 km) I almost lost the entire level. Sad result: engine overhaul. The rings are stuck. And it all starts with the valve stem seals.

the rings are completely de-coked without disassembling the engine. And they like to coke among vomiters and car factory enthusiasts at night. Well, what if there is some kind of malfunction?

Well, as for decoking without disassembling, I tried it on mine (Corolla 5afe), it turned out to be complete stupidity, my brother tried it on a Maxim A33, despite the fact that I told him it was stupid, it didn’t help. Both changed the rings and oil deflectors) Now the oil is eating up on my wife’s rescue, but it’s not critical, I’ll wait until there’s more oil and I’ll change the rings. Well, I also changed the connecting rod bearings, for prevention. Consumption dropped to zero (it was 1 liter per 1000 km for me)

if the rings are alive, but coked, then Laurel really helps. and when it doesn’t help, it’s already a mess

This is all clear, but maybe just switch to a different oil?

Will not help. Climb other sites where such engines are installed on cars. Try decarbonization, but as a rule, in your case, only replacing the rings and MSCs helps.

What do you have to lose? Buy Laurel, decarbonize it and then replace the oil with another. And try the oil according to the manual 5W30. I filled it with Shell 5W40, everything is fine, now I want to fill it with 5W30 or 0W30 and before replacing it for preventive maintenance (because in the winter on auto-warming and I spin in the city at a little more than 2500 rpm) I will do decoking. These engines are not designed for 10W40.

Good day. My advice is LAVR - change the oil 10w40 - replace the MSK - drive - measure - rings last. The principle is from simple checks to complex ones. I had the same consumption, I did the decoking, the consumption went down, now I’ll change the MSK, etc. Whatever the case, major repairs are on the horizon. And yet, blue smoke on a cold morning is a hundred pounds of MSK, not from my words, the opinion of specialists.

online now

No car club members

based on activity data for the last 5 minutes.

Happy Birthday!

Turned: 32 Age: 32

Turned: 36 Age: 36

Turned: 42 Age: 42

There are 20 birthday people in total. The list includes the most active ones.

Recommendations

Comments 33

I had a burnout, but there was no soot, the traction was good, the oil was still leaking. Resigned himself, topped up. I tried different oils. Once Khalil G energy and the zhor disappeared completely. That's how it would be

Hello. Do you have a craving for oil now? I’m craving oil too. I’ve tried different oils.

No zhor, did you leak my oil too?

No, it’s not yours. I want to try it. What viscosity did I fill in? What was the burn? I have a liter for 3000 km.

5w-30 synthetics lei, then unsubscribe

I had the exact same consumption as yours for 8000t, if you didn’t top it up, it remained 5-7mm below the middle, which is about 1-1.1 liters of oil. A month ago I changed the cylinder head gasket and immediately replaced the oil seals. Although the mileage was 110,000 tons, the car was 9 years old and the original caps (the original was NOK, by the way) were like plastic, they simply burst when removed. After the replacement, 5000 tons have passed, the oil remains at the top mark and does not go away. PS Before this I tried Toyota oils 5-30 and 5-40, Idemitsu 0-20.5-30. The fat was the same, well, maybe 0-20 ate a little faster. Now I recommend to everyone: replace the caps

My mileage is 138 thousand. It’s my own car. The car has been in the same hands for 9 years. Well, I'll see, maybe next year I'll change the gasket and caps

To be sure, unscrew the spark plugs and make sure that there is carbon deposits on the end of the spark plug threads. This means that oil waste is coming from the caps. I had something like the one on the nearest candle, now it’s all pale brown.

For 7k I ate half a dipstick, 700 grams somewhere, Idemitsu Zepro 5v40 oil. Before this, the same oil was filled in, it took less, driving without heaping

the engine has no disease! I’ve been running Toyota for 13 thousand for a year! Judging by the dipstick, nothing was lost! mileage 87 0-20

it was like this) poured Toyota 5w30 in an iron can, after the next replacement at a mileage of about 190K after the next replacement it started to consume liters) I thought it was the left oil, but even after two oil changes (lil both Toyota 5W30 and 5W40 and Liquid Molly 5W30) there was no oil intake disappeared. At mileage 196K I muddied the capital, an autopsy showed that the rings were stuck and the valve seals had become stiff. Replaced the rings and valve stem seals, the oil burn was gone. at a mileage of about 270K, in the same way, a couple of days after the replacement (Toyota 5W30), oil consumption began and in addition a knocking sound appeared on a cold start. these are the pies) I don’t see the point in repairing, I’ll change the engine and avoid Toyota oil, since there is a suspicion that they are bringing the oil to us)

Lil Idemitsu 0w20 in a tin can is 4 liters, the oil intake is a little more than a liter for 5 thousand mileage. This is taking into account that I still pour it in the morning, I have to be on time everywhere. Right now I filled it with halfoline Texaco 5w30, I’ll see what the consumption will be.

I use Toyota 5w40, the mileage is 340, it doesn’t eat anything, the mileage is on the highway, the 1.4 engine on it at 120 km is already almost 4000 rpm and everything is fine. Maybe look where the leak is.

Well, it depends on how you drive) and what the mileage is) If you constantly pump 4-5 thousand revolutions, then any oil will leak. And if you don’t rise above 3 thousand revolutions, then if the engine is not completely dead, it won’t eat. I pour 5v40 BP. I usually change it at 10 thousand. And the oil level does not usually drop to 7 thousand. It eats up a little just somewhere from 7 to 10 thousand. But not critical. Not enough to get into the engine. Mileage 180 thousand. In general, it seems like 1 liter of oil per 10 thousand mileage - this is considered normal oil consumption.

Moreover, driving style has an effect, I drove along the highway, I pushed it to the floor when overtaking, not much, but it seems to have decreased slightly, I read about 0w 20 here for the winter, maybe it will really be less

I pour 0 to 20 and don’t eat a drop.

My mileage is 370, I only use 0w20, there are no problems, when I took a car with 80 mileage, I filled it with Castrol 5-40, it consumed about a liter per 8 thousand, then I started pouring Motul 5-30, it began to eat less, but it still happened a lot, and then I started pouring only 0w20, I opened the engine recently, it was as clean as a baby’s bottom, and an acquaintance drove 5 40, 180 thousand, opened the engine and there was just a scribe, you could collect three packs of plasticine.

Actual engine life of Toyota Corolla 1.4, 1.6

Cars from Japanese manufacturers have long been known for their reliability and unpretentiousness. Toyota Corolla can confidently be called one of the most popular cars. The history of the model lasts more than half a century; to date, eleven generations of Toyota Corolla are known. The car’s impeccable technological qualities, as well as its excellent price-quality ratio, captivate tens of thousands of car enthusiasts every year.

Today statistics show that during the entire production period, about 50 million copies of the car were sold. The question arises: is this car really good, and what is the real resource of the Toyota Corolla engine?

Toyota Corolla 150 car engine - how much oil to fill

Tenth generation E140-150, 2006-2013

The Toyota Corolla 150 has become more solid and presentable in comparison with its predecessor, and also looks like a smaller copy of the flagship Camry sedan. The car received a new practical interior with thoughtful ergonomics and improved equipment. In general, there were no glamorous or unusual solutions typical of French cars. The chassis of the car is a MacPherson front suspension and a rear torsion beam. This chassis made it possible to achieve optimal driving characteristics in Russian road conditions.

At least compared to its competitors, the Corolla 150 had a better ride, and handling remained predictable even in extreme conditions. The luggage compartment volume was 450 liters, but it was still possible to fold the rear seatbacks in a ratio of 60:40. The manufacturer included ABS, EBD, BA systems, as well as front and side airbags in the basic safety kit of the Corolla 150. Curtains and a knee airbag for the driver were offered as options. As a result, the car received a high score for safety in the EuroNCAP crash test.

Line of power units

Japanese engines loudly declared themselves back in the 90s of the last century. Toyota engineers managed to create a truly outstanding design at that time, which was distinguished by its small dimensions and high power. Among other things, Toyota Corolla power units are known for their low fuel consumption and high-torque performance. The base engine is a 1.4-liter 4ZZ-FE engine with a chain drive. It has a lot in common with the 1.6-liter 3ZZ-FE engine. The manufacturer decided to install a smaller crankshaft and change the piston stroke, thus creating a structurally similar, but less powerful engine with a displacement of 1.4 liters.

The 1.6 1ZR FE power unit is considered the most popular and in demand. Structurally, it consists of four cylinders and sixteen valves. This installation predetermines the presence of a chain drive, which has a positive effect on engine life. It was mainly installed under the hood of Toyota Corolla E150, E160. Technologically, the result was a perfect power unit, which was designed taking into account previous experience, but using more modern technologies. The engine gas distribution system is equipped with a VVTI system, which contributes to the highest quality power supply to the engine.

Excessive oil consumption in engine 1NR (1.33)

After 70,000 km, on cars of the Corolla 150, 160, 170 and 180 model series with a 1NR-FE 1.33 engine (NRE150, NRE180), excessive oil consumption may be observed, which progresses very quickly (at 100,000 km, oil consumption increases to 1 liter per 1000 km, which is the maximum limit based on the operating manual), it is also possible for the engine cover to “fog up”. Separately, it is worth noting that this problem was also previously encountered in excessive consumption of Corolla 120 oil.

The problem lies in the unsuccessful design of the engine - the drain holes of the oil scraper rings become clogged with carbon deposits (due to the diameter of the oil drain holes, small oil holes in the pistons under the oil scraper rings become clogged).

The manufacturer admitted the flaw, but this did not have any favorable effect on the owners of the Toyota Corolla E150, since the problem in most cases arose when the warranty expired. For the “lucky” owners of the Corolla 180, the only thing I would like to recommend (especially to those who use the car for short distances) is to fill in high-quality gasoline of at least 95, change the oil more often (5000-7000 km or 500 liters of gasoline, but it is better to rely on engine hours), and pour oil with a viscosity no higher than *W-30 with a high alkaline number (for example: 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30), the main thing is that it is not a fake.

How long do the engines run on a Toyota Corolla?

As a rule, both engines pass the first 250 thousand kilometers without any significant problems. The main thing is to change the engine oil on time. The manufacturer recommends changing the lubricant every 10 thousand kilometers. But, as practice shows, in order to maintain the performance characteristics of the car and extend the engine life, it is best to carry out a scheduled replacement every 7.5-8 thousand km.

Common malfunctions of 1ZZ, 3ZZ, 4ZZ-FE motors:

• Increased oil consumption. It is observed mainly among power plants manufactured before 2002. The problem lies in the oil scraper rings, which are best replaced with a 2005 model or newer ones. Add oil to the level, after which the problem disappears;
• Increased noise, knocking of the 1ZZ engine. It occurs at the turn of the first 150 thousand km, and is solved by replacing the timing chain. Valves on Toyota Corolla engines knock in rare cases and do not need frequent adjustment;
• RPM instability can be resolved by flushing the throttle valve and idle air valve;
• Vibration often occurs on some engines, and it is not always possible to eliminate it. You need to check the rear engine mount.

If we compare power plants of different generations in terms of resource, then, of course, engines of the 3ZZ, 4ZZ series significantly outperform the older modification 1ZZ. They can be bored and sleeved, which is a definite plus. But 1ZZ engines often refuse to be serviced, they are practically impossible to overhaul, or carrying out such work turns out to be an unprofitable exercise. It is for this reason that many domestic car enthusiasts do not like 1ZZ power plants.

What is the replacement interval?

Toyota Corolla engine oil must be changed after every 10 thousand km. This is the vehicle manufacturer's recommended service interval. However, the recommendations are given taking into account the mild Japanese climate, therefore in regions with difficult operating conditions the fluid change interval should be reduced to 5-7 thousand km.

How often should you change the oil in a Toyota Corolla automatic transmission to avoid major repairs?

Owner reviews

In Russia you can often find a Toyota Corolla with a VVT 1 system. This modification was assembled taking into account the climatic and other characteristics of the region. It also has four cylinders and is equipped with an injection power system. An indisputable advantage is perfectly adjusted valve timing. Thanks to this, the engine turned out to be quite economical, without losing its factory dynamic characteristics. Japanese engineers claim that their engines run for at least 250,000 kilometers without problems, is this really true? Owner reviews will be provided.

Engine 1.4

1. Maxim, Moscow. For a long time I drove a Toyota Corolla e150 2008 with a 1.4 liter engine paired with a manual gearbox. I can say with confidence that in most cases, engines of this series require mechanical impact when traveling 200-250 thousand kilometers. A lot depends on the conditions in which the car was operated. First of all, oil scraper rings and caps wear out, and the timing chain also requires replacement after 120-150 thousand km, depending on your luck. This is not a major overhaul, but, in fact, an engine overhaul. Since the sealing of the cylinders remains at this level at a good level.
2. Igor, Krasnodar. I've been driving a Toyota Corolla since 2011. The mileage is already 220 thousand kilometers, the engine is still peppy, the car goes well on the highway, I change the oil every 5-6 thousand km, I only use synthetics recommended by the manufacturer. I adhere to a calm driving style, I don’t rush around the city, with this attitude towards the car, I think that it will cover at least 350-400 thousand km, and then we’ll see what to do.
3. Vyacheslav, Tambov. I have a restyled version of Toyota Corolla e150 with a 1.4 liter 4ZZ-FE engine. During operation, I realized one thing: timely oil changes play an important role. If timely maintenance is carried out, the engine will run for a long time. I always fill in synthetics and practically do not deviate from the manufacturer’s recommendations. The mileage is 280,000 km, which is certainly a good indicator. During this time, I changed the timing chain twice, fuel consumption is adequate, in rare cases it exceeds the official norm. In general, I'm happy with the car, the dynamics are also at a good level after this amount of time.
4. Vasily, Rostov. The only drawback of the Toyota engine is the lack of the possibility of major repairs. I drove my Toyota Corolla e160 with a 1.4 engine for 300,000 kilometers, after which I decided to sell it. The engine was considered to be in perfect condition, but I decided to change the car because I wanted a new one. I heard that there are still craftsmen who make handicraft sleeves for worn-out engines, so there shouldn’t be any problems here. It is necessary to monitor the condition of the power unit and respond to any malfunctions in a timely manner. Then the Toyota Corolla will definitely pass 300-350 thousand.

Owner reviews confirm the fact of the high service life of power plants. Many car owners travel 300 thousand kilometers or more on E150, E160 models. In very rare cases, increased fuel and oil consumption is observed, which is most often caused by a late response to breakdowns in the system.

How I overcame increased oil consumption on 2AZ and improved sound insulation. Exploitation

Greetings to all readers of the continuation of my review.

Over the past five or six months since the date of the previous story, several events have occurred that I would like to tell you about. After a year of operation, I can say that, in principle, I am satisfied with the car. However, it was necessary to invest a certain amount of money in bringing some components into proper form and performing some useful modifications. But first things first.

As I already wrote, the number one problem for me was increased oil consumption. An attempt to switch to a thicker Shell HelixUltra 5w40 oil did not bring the expected effect. Over 7 thousand kilometers, the engine additionally consumed about 2 liters of oil. It turned out that changing the viscosity of the mala used did not help at all. Moreover, the lion's share of this consumption was in highway mode, which is quite natural for stuck rings. For example, 1000 km from Krasnoyarsk and back is approximately 0.7 liters, the rest was traveled in slower urban and suburban modes. Of course, this situation with the constant addition of rather expensive synthetics did not suit me. From reading the driver's forum about oil burn on 2AZ-FE, one may get the opinion that this is a disease of this type of engine. But as it turned out, this is far from the case. At least not with the same as mine, around 130 t.km. mileage A month ago, it was ripe for more drastic measures. The decoking procedure occurred as follows. The composition produced by one well-known domestic enterprise was poured into the cylinders overnight (engine preparation and the process are well described in the instructions for the preparation). In the morning, the servicemen pumped out the fluid from the cylinders, screwed in the old spark plugs (which I had prudently saved from the replacement), drained the old oil, and filled in Lukoil synthetic, especially cheaper, because... it will be due in about 1000 km. replace again. We started the engine. According to them, from the combustion of deposits dissolved in the liquid in the cylinders from the exhaust pipe, there was a strong smell of non-combustion products for a long time, then the smell gradually dissipated. After this, the candles were replaced again with fresh ones. After I picked up the car, I also felt the remnants of this smell for about half a day. By the end of the day, the cylinders had apparently been sufficiently cleaned, and the exhaust smell had returned to normal. He didn't say that anything had changed significantly in the engine's performance. Perhaps it began to work a little smoother. The next day I went to the service center, where they washed the throttle assembly for preventive maintenance. We measured the compression in the cylinders - it remained within the same parameters. Even when changing the oil, it turned out that the thread on the drain plug was on its last legs, so we cut it to the next size and screwed in a new plug.

During the week I made a trip to Krasnoyarsk and back. A little over 1000 km. The level remained at the top line of the dipstick. I was very happy. Next, change the oil again to Shell Helix 5w30. After that, I drove already one and a half thousand km, again with a trip to Krasnoyarsk, most of the way at a cruising speed of 110-120 km/h. Oil consumption in fact was about a quarter between the minimum and maximum risks. I didn't even bother to top it up. In city mode there will obviously be no more consumption. Based on my experience, I concluded that in fact the 2AZ is not at all gluttonous for oil. Coking depends on what is poured into it and how fast it is driven. By the way, after changing the oil I filled in the XADO additive with a guaranteed mileage of 100,000 km. Despite the fact that this is not a cheap revitalizant, I am already pouring it into my fourth car and am only happy with the effect. After break-in, the engine runs smoother, turns easier and the power clearly increases, by 5 percent exactly. Don't think I'm advertising. I am stating a fact. I myself used to be skeptical about additives, until at our work they started using a similar device (but not Xado) in the lubricant of turbocharger bearings and their run-out increased. After that, our technicians began pouring it into their cars. And after scrolling through reviews on the Internet for various similar compositions, I settled on this, which I don’t regret at all.

The second problem that had to be overcome was the constant presence of moisture, almost a swamp in the underground trunk. I dried it a couple of times, but the water came back. Since the source of water penetration itself was not found, and a more in-depth examination was only possible with the removal of the trunk trim and floor covering, I made an agreement with the music and alarm installers. They are specialists in working with cladding and agreed to work on it. At the same time, I ordered sound insulation to be installed under the trunk trim and on the rear arches. Specialist Vladimir, many thanks to him, worked hard for two and a half days. I found the leak location almost by accident. They didn’t run through the roof rails (as I thought) and from under the rubber bands there were also valves at the bottom of the trunk. It turned out that the car was hit in the right rear side, not too badly, and it was restored well; you can’t see anything from the outside. Only from the inside are traces of straightening barely visible. As a result, the repairmen did not attach the right rear light tightly to the body and through the drainage system from the roof along the edge of the rear door it entered the cabin through the light seals. After treating the headlight seal with a heat-resistant sealant (I also treated the left headlight so that they would not be different), the problem with moisture became a thing of the past. Gluing with 8 mm sound insulation (the master said that he had recently started using a new lightweight material) on the side of the body and the arches from the inside, as well as the trunk, helped to significantly reduce the noise level, especially from the wheels and suspension. And fixing the air duct dangling in the right niche near the arch eliminated the rattling that constantly occurs on bumps. In general, for 9 and a half thousand rubles, the effect was simply wonderful. Now I rate the level of sound insulation in the car as 4 plus. It used to be - with a big minus.

From other things.

In the summer I changed the oil in the rear gearbox ZIC 5W-90. Already in the fall - Kashiyama D2269 rear brake pads, the old ones were at the limit of wear. Toyota propeller shaft tail bearing 90363-95003. The latter became completely unusable due to dirt getting in (it is not clear how, since the outer oil seal was intact). Moreover, initially, from the moment I bought the car, I heard an indefinite hum from behind, I thought the wheel bearing was starting to wear out. And this went on for several months until in September I drove 90 km to Abakan along a highway 80 km from the city, the grinding suddenly became threateningly loud, I had to reduce the speed to 50-40 km/h. But somehow the bearing was grinding strangely, it didn’t seem like it was coming from the hub. Then suddenly the grinding noise disappeared. I went on business, but on the way back the grinding noise appeared from time to time. The service found the source of the noise. But they said that a special puller is required, which is not available everywhere. In another, a puller was found and the bearing was successfully replaced; the original was purchased at the store: 1700 - bearing, 1200 - replacement with disconnecting the propeller shaft from the gearbox.

Along the way, it turned out that my driveshaft crosspiece was fairly worn out, and the source of the occasional clicks when starting in reverse immediately became clear. I looked through a bunch of information about replacing crosspieces. I only understood one thing: changing without a cardan assembly is a risk, unless it is done on a balancing machine, and this is very rare. Now I'm thinking about ordering a propeller shaft assembly. Our regular spare parts stores do not accept such orders. For now I'm driving as is.

Painted the hood. There are many chips left from the previous owners. Polishing didn't help here anymore. The paint shop did a good job: in color and without shagreen. I bought a carbon fiber fly swatter for the hood. Discharged from Novosibirsk on order. Looks great.

Let me sum it up. Taking into account the work and improvements performed, Ravik rose in his rating for me due to additional comfort when moving and improved performance. Yes, the suspension has not become softer, but the sound of its operation is heard less. The sound of the studs on the 700 Blizzak is almost like on summer tires. Another thing I like about this car is the large niche under the false trunk floor. In the Japanese version of the long RAV4 under the name Vanquard, the third row of seats is hidden there. Of course, this is thanks to the fact that the spare tire hangs on the rear door. However, there is no great sacrifice in aesthetics on the outside for the sake of such capacity on the inside. I have not seen other SUVs of this size with such a spacious underground. It is very convenient to store a bunch of things useful for a motorist. This is roughly the same as the underground in Ipsum, only the form is different.

Gasoline consumption. I already wrote that the differences from the 2-liter standard brother are negligible. In summer - from 9 to 10.5 liters per hundred, depending on speed and load. In winter: highway 10.5 - 11, city/country - up to 13 liters or a little more. Moreover, the computer flow meter underestimates by an average of a liter, more in the city, less on the highway. The gasoline I pour is 92, and only occasionally I add 95. I tried a pure 95, the difference in dynamics was barely noticeable, and in terms of consumption - not noticeable. The cost is noticeable. The quality is doubtful. For me the conclusion is obvious.

With this, I say goodbye until I replenish my collection of useful information and subsequently communicate with you on this matter.

On the picture:

1-2 photos of RAV4.

3-4 laid sound insulation

Messages 19

1 Topic from Denis Klyakin 2010-09-17 15:30:19

• Denis Klyakin
• New member
• Inactive

• Registered: 2010-03-21
• Messages: 3

Subject: Tell me why there is high oil consumption in the engine, 5e engine, Toyota Corolla.

Tell me why there is high oil consumption in the engine, 5e engine, Toyota Corolla 2001. Thank you!

2 The answer from whoever needs it is the one who knows 2010-09-17 19:46:00

• who need to know the
• New member
• Inactive

• Registered: 2010-02-05
• Messages: 8

Re: Tell me why there is high oil consumption in the engine, 5e engine, Toyota Corolla.

most likely seals, how long has this been a problem?

3 Reply from Alexey Poleshchuk 2010-09-19 17:06:00

• Alexey Poleshchuk
• Member
• Inactive

• Registered: 2010-08-11
• Messages: 82

Re: Tell me why there is high oil consumption in the engine, 5e engine, Toyota Corolla.

The oil scraper rings may have stuck. Try pouring decoking agent into the cylinders, sometimes it helps.

4 Reply from Nurlyain (Yasha) Safiulin 2010-10-03 20:36:00

• Nurlyain (Yasha) Safiulin
• Member
• Inactive

• Registered: 2009-07-26
• Messages: 58

Re: Tell me why there is high oil consumption in the engine, 5e engine, Toyota Corolla.

Your car is smoking. There are no leaks or oil leaks anywhere. If there is smoke, two reasons are the oil, the removable valve caps, the cylinder rings have dried out or worn out. Engine oil flowing into the gearbox.

5 Reply from Nikolay Vorobiev 2010-10-05 13:15:00

• Nikolay Vorobiev
• Member
• Inactive

• Registered: 2009-01-30
• Messages: 353

Re: Tell me why there is high oil consumption in the engine, 5e engine, Toyota Corolla.

this is a lie and a provocation, I have been convinced for a very long time that Japanese cars, contrary to the laws of physics and chemistry, do not break down. so I no longer believe in increased oil consumption;-)

6 Reply from Nikolay Stolyarov 2010-10-05 15:38:00

• Nikolay Stolyarov
• Member
• Inactive

• Registered: 2008-11-20
• Messages: 3,439

Re: Tell me why there is high oil consumption in the engine, 5e engine, Toyota Corolla.

Kolyunya! I’m ready with a chisel and a hammer to convince you that all cars break down!!

7 Reply from Nikolay Vorobiev 2010-10-05 15:48:00

• Nikolay Vorobiev
• Member
• Inactive

• Registered: 2009-01-30
• Messages: 353

Re: Tell me why there is high oil consumption in the engine, 5e engine, Toyota Corolla.

Namesake, stop these attacks on the Japanese auto industry - I HAVE ALREADY BELIEVED FOR TWO WHOLE DAYS THAT JAPANESE PEOPLE DO NOT BREAK. AND YOU CAN'T CONVERSE ME. HERE:-P

8 Reply from Nikolay Stolyarov 2010-10-05 15:53:00

• Nikolay Stolyarov
• Member
• Inactive

• Registered: 2008-11-20
• Messages: 3,439

Re: Tell me why there is high oil consumption in the engine, 5e engine, Toyota Corolla.

The Japanese are generally shit, here is Kalina, yellow viburnum, this is a car! Yakuza dream!!

9 Reply from Sergey Gladkikh 2010-10-18 19:30:00

• Sergei Gladkikh
• Member
• Inactive

• Registered: 2010-10-18
• Messages: 52