Which oil is better to pour into a Toyota Passo engine?

Toyota Passo is a compact hatchback for the Japanese market, known in Europe under the name Daihatsu Sirion. The car debuted in 2004, and sales of the second generation Passo began in 2010. The car received a more modern design with rounded headlights, and the engine range consisted of 1.0 and 1.3 liter gasoline engines (69-95 hp).

You could choose front-wheel drive or all-wheel drive. Since 2021, the third generation Toyota Passo has been produced in Japan, which has a more stylish and sporty design compared to previous models. The hatchback can be purchased in Japan with a 69-horsepower engine and a CVT.

Oil for Toyota Passo C30

To purchase a suitable oil, you will need to name the SAE viscosity index and acceptable API oil quality for a diesel or gasoline engine. (Manufacturer's choice at your discretion).

Over the years, the Passo engine ages (gets tired), the parameters in the table take into account the age of the cars and are relevant for changing the oil in 2021.

If the car is operated all year round in a region where the cold season predominates, then the appropriate oil viscosity class must be taken from the winter or all-season columns.

For example:

for petrol engine Toyota Passo (C30) 2010 when operating in 2021, all-season semi-synthetic oil 10W-40 with SL quality is suitable, and for models 2021 onwards. for the cold season, 0W-40 \ SM synthetics are good.

If the car is operated all year round in a region with a predominant warm season, then the appropriate oil viscosity class must be taken from the all-season column.

If the car is used rarely throughout the year and mainly in the warm season, then the appropriate oil viscosity class must be taken from the summer column.

If possible, check the oil you select to ensure it meets your vehicle manufacturer's specifications and service intervals.

Oil condition drop by drop

One drop from the engine oil dipstick should be placed on a sheet of paper and wait 15 minutes until it is saturated and forms a clear spot. Now we compare the resulting sample with the table. Full instructions.

Source

What kind of oil to fill in the Toyota Passo engine

Original

For Toyota Passo cars, Toyota Motor Oil 5W-30 is recommended. The viscosity of the lubricant depends on the operating conditions. For example, 10W-40 or 5W-40 is suitable for all-season use. When used in summer, 20W-40 or 25W-50 is recommended, and mainly in winter, 0W-30, 0W-40 or 5W-30 is used.

Unoriginal

Owners of Toyota Passo cars prefer alternative motor oils from well-known brands. The brands include Kixx, Mannol, Shell, Castrol, Valvoline, Lukoil, Elf, etc. Another criterion when choosing a suitable lubricant for the Toyota Funcargo engine is compatible API approval. This indicator can be selected based on the year of manufacture of the car and the type of engine. Below are the required characteristics of engine oil according to these criteria:

1. First generation: for petrol model Passo 2004. We recommend mineral or semi-synthetic oil with parameters API-SJ and SAE 10W-40. For 2010 cars, you can use semi-synthetics with API-SL and SAE 10W-40 parameters.
2. Second generation: for Passo gasoline models released in 2010, semi-synthetic API-SL with a viscosity of 10W-40 is recommended. For 2021 cars, it is already possible to fill in semi-synthetic or synthetic with API-SM SAE 10W-40.
3. Third generation: for Passo models 2021. For gasoline engines, semi-synthetics or API-SM synthetics with a viscosity of SAE 10W-40 are suitable. For cars after 2021. – API-SN synthetics.

Below are suitable oils for Toyota Passo engines.

• Mol Essence 5W-30
• Mobil 1 5W-30
• Liqui Moly SpeciaL tec AA 0W-20.

Source

Oil for Toyota Passo 3rd generation

To purchase a suitable oil, you will need to name the SAE viscosity index and acceptable API oil quality for a diesel or gasoline engine. (Manufacturer's choice at your discretion).

Over the years, the Passo engine ages (gets tired), the parameters in the table take into account the age of the cars and are relevant for changing the oil in 2021.

If the car is operated all year round in a region where the cold season predominates, then the appropriate oil viscosity class must be taken from the winter or all-season columns.

For example:

for gasoline engine Toyota Passo (3rd generation) 2021 when operating in 2021, all-season synthetic oil 10W-40 with SM quality is suitable, and for 2021 models. For the cold season, only 0W-50\SN synthetics are recommended.

If the car is operated all year round in a region with a predominant warm season, then the appropriate oil viscosity class must be taken from the all-season column.

If the car is used rarely throughout the year and mainly in the warm season, then the appropriate oil viscosity class must be taken from the summer column.

If possible, check the oil you select to ensure it meets your vehicle manufacturer's specifications and service intervals.

Oil condition drop by drop

One drop from the engine oil dipstick should be placed on a sheet of paper and wait 15 minutes until it is saturated and forms a clear spot. Now we compare the resulting sample with the table. Full instructions.

Source

What oil to use for the Toyota Passo engine

Original

The manufacturer recommends that Toyota Passo owners fill in original Toyota engine oil with a viscosity of 0W-20 or 5W-30, and the filling volume should not exceed four liters.

Also read: Oil for manual transmission Toyota Corolla

Unoriginal

Owners of old and used Toyota Passo cars prefer to pour non-original oil, which is much cheaper with the same parameters, which must be taken into account when choosing a suitable analogue. In addition, you also need to take into account the age of the car. For example, for a gasoline Toyota Passo C10 model 2004, all-season semi-synthetic 10W-30 with API-SJ approval is recommended. For modifications released in 2010, in the winter season it is better to fill in semi-synthetics with a viscosity of 0W-40 and API-SL approval. Below are suitable analogues for Toyota Passo:

• Liqui Moly Special Tec AA 0W-20, 5W-30
• Castrol Edge Professional 5W-30 A5
• Motul 6100 Save-Nergy 5W-30.

K3-VE engine structure

K3 VE is a fairly light and compact unit. K3-VE is a classic in-line four with a volume of 1.3 liters, produced by Toyota since 2000. The timing drive is carried out by a chain, the engine is also equipped with a VVT-i system, the variable valve timing clutch is located on the intake camshaft. The aluminum block and cylinder head make the engine quite light. The cylinder head is built using the DOHC system - equipped with 2 camshafts and 16 valves. The engine is designed for small cars from Daihatsu and Toyota. Its power is only 86 horsepower, yes, the power indicators are quite low, the torque is only 120 Hm. This engine is considered long-stroke - the piston stroke of 79.7 mm is greater than the cylinder diameter, the latter in turn is 72 mm.

This architecture makes it possible to achieve optimal torque values ​​from the lowest revs, and long-stroke engines are also more economical than their short-stroke counterparts.

K3-VET received a VQ41 turbine, its pressure is 0.5 bar. The manufacturer also introduced a turbine, this modification was labeled K3-VET, it is also equipped with a VVT-i system, a timing chain drive and a 16-valve cylinder head.
The turbine pressure is 0.5 bar. Compression ratios dropped by 1.5 units compared to its naturally aspirated counterpart. This unit boasts a power of 140 horsepower, torque has increased to 177 Hm. The engine did not become an innovative breakthrough, but has several distinctive features:

How much oil do you need to fill in a Toyota Passo engine?

First generation (ХС10, model year – 2004-2010)

The 2004 compact hatchback went on sale with 1KR-FE petrol engines producing 70 hp. s., as well as K3-VE with 90-horsepower output. The engines were coupled with a non-alternative automatic transmission-4. The car had a MacPherson front suspension and a multi-link rear suspension.

Also read: Engine oil for Mercedes-Benz ML 320 engine

It should be noted that the model’s chassis is completely unified with the Toyota Funcargo compact van, which shares a common platform with the first generation Toyota Vitz. As for the operating features, many Toyota Passo owners note the need to use high-quality motor oil due to the fact that both engines have a timing chain drive. The front-wheel drive version consumes 3.5 liters per 100 km, while the hatchback with all-wheel drive consumes 4.1 liters. In 2006, the car was modernized. In particular, engineers modified the front bumper, radiator grille, and updated the front optics and rear lights.

Gasoline engines 2004-2010

• 1KR-FE 1.0, oil volume - 2.9 liters, tolerance and viscosity: API SL/GF-3; SAE 0W-20
• K3-VE 1.3, oil volume - 3.3 liters, tolerance and viscosity: API - SL/GF-3; SAE 5W-20.

Second generation (XC30, model year – 2010-2018)

After the change of generations, the platform for Passo remained the same. Essentially, it was a modernized hatchback with a more “harmless” exterior. The car was produced with a liter 1KR-FE gasoline engine, as well as a 95-horsepower 1NR-FE with a volume of 1.3 liters (instead of the old 1.3 K3-VE). The second generation Toyota Passo had two main modifications - Passo and Passo + Hana. The first version has a higher level of safety, while the second version is distinguished by a special exterior and interior design with additional options.

Gasoline engines 2010-2016

• 1KR-FE 1.0, oil volume - 3.1 liters, tolerance and viscosity: API-SL, SM/ILSASC GF4; SE 0W-20, 5W-30, 5W-20, 10W-30
• 1NR-FE 1.3, oil volume - 3.4 liters, tolerance and viscosity: API-SL, SM/ILSASC GF4; SE 0W-20, 5W-30, 5W-20, 10W-30.

Breakdowns of Toyota Passo Sette automatic transmissions

The design of all Toyota automatic transmissions has a mechanical and electronic part that interact while the car is moving. This design requires more careful attention, since any incorrect actions can lead to breakdowns:

If the automatic transmission malfunctions, a corresponding error appears, the code of which can be used to determine the nature of the malfunction. In such cases, you need to immediately go to the service center and not wait for the box to go into emergency mode. And driving, even with minor malfunctions, often leads to complete failure of the Toyota Passo Sette automatic transmission.

Motor oil for Toyota Passo engine

Toyota Passo is a compact B-class car, developed jointly with Daihatsu, a subsidiary of the Toyota concern, which took part in the creation of the model. Daihatsu, in turn, is engaged in production. In some countries, including Europe, the model is known as the Daihatsu Sirion. Its production began in 2004 in a five-door hatchback body. Drive – front-wheel drive or all-wheel drive, depending on the modification. In 2010, a change of generations took place, and from 2021 the third generation of Toyota Passo is being produced.

Maintenance schedule K3-VE

The power plant is one of the reliable engines. With systematic maintenance, you can not only preserve the factory resource of the power plant, but also extend it by 100-200 thousand km. It is important to change all consumables on time and not skimp on spare parts.

Motor oil is one of the most important consumables. Its timely replacement will maximize the life of the engine. It is important to select oil in accordance with the manual. The manufacturer recommends using synthetic-based oils for K3-VE with a viscosity of 0w-30, 5w-30.

Toyota Passo engine oil change period

The recommended oil change interval for the Toyota Passo engine is 10 thousand km. Official recommendations are relevant for gentle operation, when the car is not subjected to heavy loads or is driven mainly on country roads. In the case of predominantly city driving, there is a possibility of frequent gas changes and sharp braking, as well as frequent gear changes, which leads to overheating of the internal combustion engine. This negatively affects the shelf life of the engine oil, which in this case will have to be replaced after 6-7 thousand km.

Toyota Passo 1.0 5 doors. hatchback, 71 hp, 4 automatic transmission, 2004 – 2010 — engine maintenance

Car engine maintenance immediately after purchase

The first 3–5 thousand kilometers of a new car are the most important period during which the owner must act intelligently to ensure a long, trouble-free service life of the car. The parts of all components and assemblies are still grinding against each other, so you should not fully load the car and give the engine maximum speed. Fully warming up the engine before driving allows you to ensure stable operation of the internal combustion engine at idle without “choke”.

The first trip by car requires a number of mandatory manipulations. These include: tightening threaded connections, measuring air pressure in tires with a pressure gauge, checking the presence and level of technical fluids and oils in the internal combustion engine, gearbox, axles and power steering reservoir (if equipped) or in the steering column, antifreeze in the radiator tank, brake fluid - in the brake master cylinder reservoir and clutch hydraulics (if any), fuel - in the tank. Using a load fork, you need to check the battery charge, the level and density of the electrolyte and be sure to secure the battery with a special holding device in the proper place, and tighten the terminals according to their polarity. It is necessary to test the operation of the windshield wiper and washer systems (is there liquid in the tanks, are the sprayers working).

Before starting the engine for the first time, you need to pump fuel into the carburetor using a gasoline pump. After starting the engine, the driver should carefully check for leaks of oil, fuel, antifreeze or antifreeze. Let the engine idle, then press the accelerator, gradually adding speed, and listen. If there are no extraneous suspicious noises, you can start moving.

Car engine maintenance during the main period of operation

In general, car engine maintenance includes:

During the first maintenance (TO-1) of the car, special attention is paid to tightening the bolts and nuts in the fastening systems of the exhaust manifold, muffler and engine mounts. During the second maintenance (TO-2), they check and tighten (if necessary) the cylinder head fastenings, adjust the thermal clearances of the valves in the gas distribution system, check and adjust the tension of the generator belt, timing belt, etc.

During the main period of vehicle operation, various types of maintenance are carried out:

1. Daily engine maintenance.

This type of maintenance includes the following actions:

Visual inspection of the engine. Check the oil and coolant levels and top up if necessary. Evaluation of engine performance (using instruments on the panel and by ear).

2. First maintenance.

This type of maintenance includes the following actions:

Checking the reliability of fastening the engine units to the frame and body. Checking the reliability of fixing equipment directly on the engine (generator, fuel pump, muffler). Checking the reliability of the front supports. Check the crankcase pan for leaks and, if necessary, tighten the bolts. Adjustment. Carrying out operations according to the lubrication chart.

3. Second maintenance.

The second maintenance includes the following:

Perform all first maintenance items. Check and tighten (if necessary) the cylinder head nuts. Adjustment of thermal clearances of valves and, if equipped, pushers and rocker arms. Checking compression in cylinders. If necessary, remove carbon deposits. The first maintenance operations do not require disassembling the engine, while during the second maintenance it is necessary to remove the valve covers from the cylinder heads to diagnose and adjust the timing gaps.

Each automaker develops guidelines for preventing engine problems and repairing them. Thus, the tightening torque of the head of gasoline engines is lower than that of diesel engines. At the same time, it is necessary to evaluate the fastening of an aluminum cylinder head on a cold engine, and a cast iron one on a warm one.

At sub-zero temperatures, tightening cylinder heads is prohibited. The engine must be warmed up and only then begin tightening the fasteners. The bolts should be tightened evenly, in two steps, according to the manufacturer’s recommended diagram, which takes into account the design features of the engine. For broaching, use a special torque wrench. This type of work is carried out simultaneously with tightening the exhaust system bolts. The procedure should be completed by checking the valve clearances and, if necessary, adjusting them, the specifics of which are determined by the design of the engine.

During the operation of the car, the permissible gap between the valves and pushers often changes, as a result, the filling of the combustion chamber of the cylinders with the fuel mixture worsens and the removal of exhaust gases becomes more difficult. All this leads to increased fuel consumption and reduced engine power.

Inspection of the engine during maintenance

The main purpose of a control inspection of a vehicle’s internal combustion engine during maintenance is to identify obvious faults, and it is necessary to: assess the completeness, identify leaks of fuel, oils and antifreeze, check the mounting points of the engine and its systems, and perform a test run. The key characteristics of the latter are ease and time, the maximum value of which should not exceed 20 seconds. After 1–2 minutes, the launch must be repeated.

Such an inspection makes it possible, based solely on external (qualitative and quantitative) indicators, to identify internal problems in the “heart” of the car. And if you add instrumental research to them, you can get a more detailed “picture of the disease.”

More often than others, color analysis of vehicle exhaust gases, sound analysis of engine operation, and chemical analysis of crankcase oil (wear products of engine parts, insoluble pollution products, etc.) are used in diagnostics during maintenance.

1. Color analysis of exhaust gases.

By the color of the smoke from the exhaust pipe of a car, you can diagnose various engine problems:

1. White exhaust is a consequence:

insufficient pressure in the cylinders (due to wear of the piston group cylinders and incorrect operation of the valves); liquids getting into the cylinders (due to defects in the head or gasket burnout); incomplete combustion of fuel (due to ineffective atomization and skipping the compression stroke) - in diesel cars; starting the engine at low air temperatures, delayed flash (abnormal atomization by injectors, waxing of fine fuel filters, wear of the fuel injection pump) - in diesel cars. 2. Light or dark blue exhaust is a consequence of:

sticking of piston rings, general severe wear of the piston group; wear of valves, guide bushings and valve stem seals; untimely injection of the fuel mixture, improper operation of glow plugs, severe oil combustion - in diesel cars. 3. Brown or black exhaust is a consequence of incomplete combustion of fuel due to poor-quality atomization by injectors (the needle is worn out or the injection timing is reduced); incorrect fuel injection pump settings; insufficient air supply (indicates that it is time to change the air filter).

4. Gray or light gray exhaust is a consequence of:

poor running-in of piston group parts (the engine has not been run in sufficiently); loss of mobility of the piston rings due to high coking; lack of compression in the cylinders. Maintenance and repair of the vehicle's diesel engine power system must also be carried out in the case when there is no exhaust smoke at all (or it comes out in rare puffs) when starting up. This means that the fuel supply is insufficient, or the valves and pistons of the high-pressure fuel pump are stuck, or its spring is broken, or the plungers are stuck (perhaps their springs are not working properly). The problem may lie in the injector needle or check valve failure.

Car emission prints on paper can also be used to analyze and diagnose problems.

2. Analysis of noise when the motor is running.

The apparent simplicity of the method (noises are easy to hear) makes it very widespread, but it is important to remember that only a highly qualified specialist can qualitatively assess the technical condition of the car’s power unit in this way (and even his assessment will be subjective).

Review of faults and methods for repairing them

This motor has several shortcomings. But timely maintenance and moderate loads can help avoid them. For example, with proper operation, the engine will not bother you with oil consumption and timing chain rattling, and starting on a frosty morning will not cause problems. A good attitude towards the engine will extend its life by 100-200 thousand km.

Below are the most typical breakdowns and weak points:

Sophisticated attachment design using just one belt

HOW TO REPLACE THE FLUID IN A TOYOTA PASSO AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.

In this review, I will tell you step by step how to replace the fluid (who says oil, but the essence does not change) in an automatic gearbox (hereinafter referred to as automatic transmission) in a TOYOTA PASSO. The principle is suitable for many cars, if you understand the principle, you will understand any car. I was asked how I feel about stands for replacing fluid in automatic transmissions. I will express my opinion purely. This is not my option. If you only change the fluid without changing the filter, then I don’t see the point. At the stands, old slurry is replaced with new one. This can be done, if desired, without a stand, at home, but you definitely need an assistant. If anyone is interested in how, write a request in the comments - I will describe the principle. I'm happy with my way. The main condition is that we do everything in a timely manner. I change the automatic transmission fluid at intervals of 40,000 km. True, today the interval has already reached 45,000. This was due to the fact that my original engine ate oil with gusto and I did not plan to repair it. But still, I changed the engine to a contract one and now it’s time to work on the automatic transmission.

To work, we need 3 liters of fluid (I use mobile-lll fluid), gray ABRO sealant, automatic transmission filter, pit or overpass, from head keys 14 and 10.

1. Drain the liquid by unscrewing the pan plug. Approximately 1.5 - 2 liters of liquid will drain.

2. Tighten the drain plug. 3. Unscrew the bolts securing the automatic transmission pan. There are a bunch of bolts with a 10mm head all around. 4. Using a pry bar, tear the pallet off the box body. Why do we tear it off - because it is glued to the sealant. He tears it off carefully - there is still about 1 liter of working fluid in the pan.

How much and what kind of oil is in the Toyota Passo engine

Toyota Passo is an entry-level urban hatchback, developed in 2004 for the Japanese market. The European version of this model was designated Daihatsu Sirion. The model exists in three generations. So, the release of the second generation took place in 2010, and it was a completely new model with a more cubic style, as well as an economical engine range. We are talking about 1.0 and 1.3 liter engines (69-95 hp), coupled with a CVT.

The drive could be front-wheel drive or all-wheel drive. Since 2021, the third generation Passo has been on the production line, which still belongs to the class of kei cars common in Japan. This model is presented exclusively in Japan and is available in two versions. Thus, the more expensive version of the Passo Moda stands out with rounded headlights, two-tone body paint and advanced equipment.

2SZ FE tuning options

Any tuner has three options - atmospheric, turbo, another engine.

Atmospheric tuning of the installation will allow you to build an “evil” motor. To do this you will need:

This boost will allow you to add about 40-50 horsepower, while fuel consumption will practically not increase. The engine will become more high-speed. Unfortunately, the resource of the power plant will decrease, but not critically.

Let's consider the option of building a turbocharged version of the K3-VE yourself:

Turbo tuning of this engine looks like this

These modifications will add about 100 horsepower to the engine; the output can be a power unit with an acceptable resource and a power of 200 hp.

The simplest and cheapest option would be to replace the engine with a more powerful one. For example, you can install a turbo brother K3 VE. Its marking is K3 VET, this engine has a power of 140 horsepower. It is worth noting that its CPG and cylinder head are already designed at the factory for turbocharging, so the resource of the power unit will be the same as that of the naturally aspirated version.

List of car models in which the engine was installed

Toyota bB

Toyota bB (10.2008 - 07.2016) restyling, hatchback, 2nd generation, QNC20

Toyota bB (10.2005 - 09.2008) hatchback, 2nd generation, QNC20

Toyota Cami

Toyota Cami (05.2000 - 01.2006) restyling, suv, 1st generation, J100

Toyota Duet

Toyota Duet (12.2001 - 05.2004) 2nd restyling, hatchback, 1st generation, M100, M110

Toyota Passo

Toyota Passo (12.2006 - 01.2010) restyling, hatchback, 1st generation, XC10

Toyota Passo (06.2004 - 11.2006) hatchback, 1st generation, XC10

Toyota Sparky

Toyota Sparky (10.2000 - 03.2003) minivan, 1st generation, S200

Daihatsu Atrai7

Daihatsu Atrai7 (07.2000 - 12.2004) minivan, 1st generation

Daihatsu Boon

Daihatsu Boon (12.2006 - 02.2010) restyling, hatchback, 1st generation, M300

Daihatsu Boon (06.2004 - 11.2006) hatchback, 1st generation, M300

Daihatsu Coo

Daihatsu Coo (05.2006 - 02.2013) hatchback, 1st generation

Daihatsu Hijet

Daihatsu Hijet (07.2001 - 12.2004) restyling, minivan, 9th generation

Daihatsu Storia

Daihatsu Storia (12.2001 - 05.2004) 2nd restyling, hatchback, 1st generation

Daihatsu Terios

Europe

Daihatsu Terios (06.2000 - 12.2005) restyling, suv, 1st generation, J102, J122

Japan

Daihatsu Terios (05.2000 - 01.2006) restyling, suv, 1st generation

Daihatsu YRV

Daihatsu YRV (08.2000 - 08.2005) hatchback, 1st generation

K3-VE Specifications

95

If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below the article. We or our visitors will be happy to answer them

Engine oil 107

Castrol Magnatec (Magnatec SAE 5W-30 C3). I pour into all the cars that were previously and are available now. Never let me down. The washing and lubricating properties are the best in its class and you don’t overpay for the name. I chose it for a reason, but as a result of studying reviews on dozens of forums on the use of motor oils both in Russia and abroad. I seriously recommend and can guarantee that engine noise will decrease and fuel consumption will decrease, although on the 107 model this will certainly not be felt as noticeably as on a car with a volume of 2.5 or 3 liters, where as a result of its use, consumption decreased by 1 - 1.5 liters per hundred kilos of mileage (from personal experience). In addition, with regular use of this oil, plaque and coking will not form in the engine, and existing ones will dissolve, which has been proven, again, including from our own experience.

By the way, this oil is approved according to the specifications of Volkswagen and Mercedes-Benz, and the A1 series is approved by Ford. I am sure that representatives of these automobile concerns would not approve of this crap, so I recommend it again.

Here I picked it up for comparison with the same viscosity class according to SAE: 5W-30

Total energy oil - ACEA A5/B5

Castrol Magnatec - API SM/CF ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4, C3

Decoding the classification of ACEA motor oils.

The ACEA quality classification has been used since 1996, and its latest edition in 2008 divides motor oils into three groups, designated by a combination of letters:

A.../ B... - oils for gasoline / diesel engines of passenger cars,

C... - for gasoline and diesel engines of passenger cars with specific exhaust gas removal systems,

Each of these groups is divided into quality levels. Eg. A1/B1, A3/B3, C2, B3. It should be noted that oils for passenger cars, designated by the combination A.../B... or C..., are universal and are suitable for both gasoline and diesel engines; in addition, in the ACEA classification, a higher number does not always mean a higher quality oil.

For passenger cars with petrol and diesel engines:

A1/B1 - fuel-saving oil that reduces friction;

A2/B2 - no longer used;

A3/B3 - characterized by increased oxidation resistance and film strength;

A3/B4 - characterized by increased oxidation resistance and film strength, for modern diesel engines with direct fuel injection;

A5/B5 is a fuel-saving, friction-reducing oil with improved oxidation resistance and film strength.

For passenger cars with low-emission gasoline and diesel engines with specific exhaust gas removal systems (DPF and TWC), therefore the content of sulfur, ash and phosphorus is limited in the composition:

C1 - friction-reducing, fuel-saving oil with a more strictly limited chemical composition;

C2 - friction-reducing, fuel-saving oil;

C3 - characterized by increased film strength;

C4 - characterized by increased film strength, more strictly limited chemical composition.

There is a separate classification for gear oils.

Conclusions:

1. It seems that when using total, fuel consumption should be more economical, but apart from the knocking of valves, as a result of its use, I did not notice anything else, especially positive. Either they pour counterfeit oil into us at Peugeot stations, or....., I don’t know.

2. If you pay attention to the C3 marking, which is not included in the total (I didn’t see it), then it will be clear that the wear of engine parts on the castrol (especially in winter) is less, and in the summer the total liquefies more strongly, which is also not very good, especially in traffic jams.

3. I previously owned a Peugeot 407 (2.2 liter). So, in the engine of all cars with a given engine size, some kind of crap broke down. As a result, when the engine was warming up, there was such a metallic sound, as if a Mercedes diesel engine from the 80s was running (who knows, he will understand). It turned out that this problem was precisely because of the total oil and its lousy properties during cold starts. Therefore, this damn thing breaks down after every 10,000 km and begins to rattle (this is written in detail on the Peugeot 407 forum).

4. With other almost equal positions of these oils, including price, I still choose Castrol, because I am confident in it.
Modified on September 6, 2011 by user Roma107