I found information - 20 reasons for increased fuel consumption.

I did a self-diagnosis. Error 33 is with us again, I’ll soon shake hands with it. I climbed under the hood myself today. My beloved found a picture that I printed out and used it to check all the hoses. Everything is connected correctly.

Then I poked the injection advance sensor on the fuel injection pump back and forth. uh. “enters and exits” (c) I looked inside - it seemed clean. I poked all sorts of wires/connectors here and there. I found one wire in a tube that was bent 90 degrees. those. if there was liquid flowing there, then it wouldn’t flow :))))) I straightened it out, tied it to some kind of hose so that it wouldn’t bend. My girlfriend stood above me laughing. No, but what? In general, all I could do was poke, touch, and bend. But... when I went, there were no changes. Just like “didn’t go”, so “doesn’t go”.

I was surfing the Internet yesterday in search of information (my head is swelling, to be honest) and came across a promotion - computer diagnostics for 300 rubles... I printed out a coupon from their website - zet-avto />Today I called and went. One of the guys - “uh. Karina? reading it on the face and freezing for a couple of seconds with his gaze on me, sitting on the right. oooo" :)))) Well, yes, there are only 8-10 of us like this in St. Petersburg, yeah :P I really liked the service. Everything was told and explained. But... they don’t have a diesel engine specialist. There is one on their network in another center. And yes, they did a suspension diagnostic for me. Free So, one by one.

The computer showed: P1220 - Malfunction of the timer adjustment circuit (error 14) P1420 - Intake air constrictor regulator, open or shorted (error 33) C1249 - Open circuit of the brake signal limit switch (error 49)

error 14, also known as P1220. solenoid valve for adjusting the injection advance angle What people write on the forums. - electrician

s22.postimg />s28.postimg />s13.postimg />—
check the integrity of the sensor air tubes
.
— this code can be issued if the system is air-filled, that is, the pressure in the pump housing is below the permissible level... I also recommend checking the fuel filter and the fuel receiver mesh
... —
There is a small note: 1220 can sometimes get knocked out when air-filled.
Those. at low speeds (up to 3000) everything may be fine, but when the pump begins to wet the diesel fuel like an elephant, then when air is sucked into the fuel, the injection timing may be lost. This is what error P1220 says. So here you need to look at the state in dynamics. Those. with your computer connected, accelerate (or take a ride). If the advance angle does not change, then the piston is jammed. (You need to remove and look at the fuel injection pump). And if there are simply dips at high levels, then look for air leaks. You need to install a transparent pipe from the filter to the pump and inspect for the presence of bubbles... What was written by the person who figured out this error (I quote) HURRAY! I found the reason, in short, I set the timing belt according to the marks, and then damn I looked and the injection pump marks do not match by 6 teeth (early injection) right now it’s rushing like a tank and doesn’t smoke.

The trouble is that it seems to me that all this started just after replacing the belt. When I left the guys after replacing the belt, the rain was terrible. I pressed the gas, but the car didn’t move. Then I immediately called Lesha. Lesha assured me that he had marked EVERYTHING, that it was just the stars aligning (replacing the belt and a problem that emerged). I decided that there was too much liquid (I thought it was floating on the road), so something could have been poured somewhere. And then, after some time, I asked Lesha to check, he climbed up from below, checked, and said that yes, everything was according to the marks. But. Miracles don't happen, right?

Another with this error P1220 (I quote) - after disassembling it became clear that the injection timing valve was dead

And when he disassembled the fuel injection pump -
either from the solarium or from time to time or why the insulation on the wiring to the injection timing valve suddenly fell off - as a result, the wires were short-circuited with each other and on the body, as a result, P1220 and an iron instead of an auto
But the result is still sad - you need to climb in, poke around and try to understand what exactly died there.

error 33, also known as P1420 Malfunction of the electro-pneumatic valve for controlling the closure of the main throttle valve. What the Internet writes about this - error 33 on autodate is interpreted in two ways: 1.idle speed control actuator diode (idle speed control drive diode) 2.intake manifold air control solenoid (intake manifold air control valve)

-
this error appeared - it popped up every few days - it was cured by replacing the solenoid.
At the same time, the old one rings and clicks - everything seems to be normal. I suppose that when heated it could sometimes fail. —
Solenoid valve, blue, located on top of the engine, 2 pieces - main and additional (they are the same).
The main one crashes first. Testing method (as I did when everything seemed to be working, but an error popped up): 1. remove the chip from the main one 2. plug a suitable resistor into it - ok. 40 ohm - to deceive the computer. 3. ride. If no error occurs, the problem has been found. Otherwise, we do the same with the additional one. s3.postimg /> - and just in case, the number of this valve (I quote)
Toyota Carina 2001 with a 3c-te engine. You need an electro-pneumatic valve 25819-64130
- another option -
the terminal comes off the engine control unit
error 49, also known as P1249 Open circuit of the stop switch -signals Well, it’s not clear at all, because as I already wrote, everything works. and brake lights and abs. The previous owner completely changed the left hub. The technician explained today that the reason may be that the chip is simply not connected, because... didn’t fit (another one, apparently). The Internet writes about this - clean the contacts inside the brake light switch (frog on the brake pedal) or replace it. There's usually a joint in it.

And also from the category of fiction -
Everything was cured.
And this is what the ficus was. When they cleaned the injectors, they didn’t turn off the battery seal, the diagnostician looked at the cleanliness of the throttle and moved the flap by hand (I asked him the next day), what happened as a result, the error was on until the throttle learned itself, although honestly, I didn’t understand what the relationship with the frog was. , theoretically there should have been errors in the engine, but there were none. Suspension. I don't understand. When the guys lifted me up so I could throttle on the lift, they shoved a stand under my suspension so that nothing would hang. And then they just lifted me up and asked me to “accelerate” to 60 km/h. I hope nothing falls off? What we found (approximate prices): - replacement of front brake pads (500 work, 1500 pads) - tie rod end (2 x 600 work, spare part - 2 x 1300) - wheel alignment (800) - all four links (4 x 500, spare parts - front 2 x 800, rear - 2 x 700) - intermediate right drive bearing (work 2500, no spare part prices). As I understand it, this bearing is a disease of the wheels. The wheel bearings are said to be still alive. Well, that's already good. Last year, Karina changed them to brand new ones two weeks before the accident... it’s a shame...

I feel like I'm boring. It seems like the car is driving and driving. If someone else were in my place, she would go and not worry. But I can't, honestly. I need everything in the machine to be in order. Especially under such circumstances. I need to break somewhere, I press the gas, but I can’t break. Let's say, leave the intersection, or change into a faster lane. And in general, I’m pleased when I press the slipper, and it bursts from under my ass. Well... in general, I’ll try to figure it out little by little. Now at least it’s clear in which direction to dig what.

All errors TOYOTA 4RUNNER, ALLEX, ALLION, ALPHARD, ALTEZZA, ARISTO, AURION, AURIS, AVALON, AVENSIS, AYGO, BB, BELTA, BLADE, BREVIS, CALDINA, CAMI, CAMRY, CELICA, CELSIOR, CENTURY, COROLLA, ECHO, ESTIMA , FJ CRUISER, FORTUNER, FUNCARGO, GT86, HARRIER, HIACE, HIGHLANDER, HILUX, INNOVA, IPSUM, iQ, ISIS, IST, KLUGER HYBRID, KLUGER V, LAND CRUISER, LAND CRUISER PRADO, MARK, MARK X, MATRIX, MR 2 , NADIA, NOAH, OPA, PASSO, PLATZ, PREMIO, PREVIA, PRIUS, PROBOX, PROGRES, RACTIS, RAUM, RAV4, RUSH, SAI, SEQUOIA, SIENNA, SIENTA, SOLARA, TACOMA, TUNDRA, URBAN CRUISER, VANGUARD, VELLFIRE, VENZA, VERSO, VITZ, VOLTZ, VOXY, WILL CYPHA, WILL VS, WINDOM, WISH, YARIS.

Throttle sensor operation

The sensor records the angle of the throttle valve, this is its main task. It works on a non-contact principle based on the Hall effect. The device can be found directly on the throttle body.

This design solution played a decisive role in the reliability of the device and the accuracy of the measurements it transmitted.

The throttle valve sensor (TDS) also has another designation TP or TPS according to the English abbreviation. It can be with mechanical and electrical drives.

The operation of the remote sensing sensor is ensured by two complementary circuits - VTA1 and VTA2.

The voltage of the signal coming from the first circuit, depending on the throttle valve position angle, changes, thereby the ECU understands what position the throttle valve is in at a certain point in time.

The VTA2 circuit is the monitoring circuit and ensures that there are no failures in the first circuit.

The range of voltage readings supplied from the sensor to the ECU, depending on the car model, may differ, but, as a rule, it is from 0 V (or 0.45) when the throttle is closed and up to 5 Volts when the throttle is fully open.

The ECU uses the received information to:

• Creating the correct air-fuel mixture at certain engine operating modes.
• Speed ​​adjustments.
• Increased fuel supply.

Details in the video.

Why does the car have increased fuel consumption?

Increased fuel consumption by a car can be due to not just one reason, but several. Let's figure out what can affect a car's consumption and how to deal with it.

Errors in the electronic engine control system

One of the main reasons for increased consumption is a malfunction of the vehicle's engine management system. What could this be connected with? This is due to incorrect operation of the sensors, which are designed to optimally calculate the fuel mixture:

1. Temperature sensor

2. Throttle position sensor

3. Mass air flow sensor (the service life of this sensor can be significantly reduced if the air filter is not changed promptly)

4. Oxygen sensor

Incorrect operation of these sensors leads to loss of vehicle engine power and increased fuel consumption. All these faults are very difficult to determine without diagnosing the car, but there is a way out. Faults can be found by reassembling the sensors.

Abnormal pressure in the fuel system

Car engine injector malfunction

Faulty catalyst

Engine temperature

If the engine temperature is less than the permissible norm, then fuel consumption will increase significantly. What causes this? This is due to the fact that enriched fuel injection occurs, and the temperature is not enough for complete combustion, accordingly power is lost and consumption increases. For example, if the internal combustion engine temperature is 85°C, then gasoline consumption will increase by approximately 15%.

Dirty air filter

The first signs of a malfunction, how the car behaves

The electronics of most modern cars are specially configured in such a way that when error p0120 occurs and Check Engine appears on the dashboard, the engine goes into emergency mode.

The ECU controls the entire process. It programmatically turns on intermittent fuel supply and adjusts the ignition timing, thereby reducing engine power.

Next, the damper, due to the action of the return spring, is installed at an angle of 6 (6.5) degrees and does not change its position until the problem is resolved.

As a rule, in emergency mode, after error p0120 appears, the car moves at a speed of no more than 50 km/h with the gas pedal depressed as much as possible.

Those. the engine does not develop speed, the car may jerk, and throttle response will be lost when you press the gas pedal.

This mode of engine operation will remain until the breakdown that caused this error is found and repaired. To do this, you will have to diagnose the machine using a scanner, multimeter and a number of other measures.

Error Conditions

The VTA1 circuit constantly transmits a signal to the ECU. Error p0120 will occur when the voltage in the circuit, with the throttle valve open, goes outside the standard range (0 to 5 volts) within a certain time interval.

The system is configured in such a way that only one error is recorded per trip.

The voltage and time interval readings for each car model, for example, Renault Logan and Mitsubishi Lancer 9, may differ, but not by much.

Let’s take, for example, a Toyota Corolla whose sensor produces a standard voltage of 0 to 5 Volts.

If the accelerator pedal is completely released, it is 0.5-1.1 V, if it is fully depressed - 3.3-4.9 V. We are talking about the VTA1 circuit.

If the voltage is below 0 or more than 5 volts for 2 or more seconds, the system will generate error p0120.

Very often, this error occurs when driving on mountain roads, when the car is overloaded, the gas pedal is pressed hard and the engine runs for a long time at high speeds.

Fuel consumption of Toyota Highlander cars

Initially, the Japanese stated that the Toyota Highlander crossover, despite its dimensions and engine capacity, would not be too voracious. Thus, the first generation of SUVs spent from 8.4 to 13.8 liters per 100 kilometers. The figure varies depending on operating conditions and driving style. For example, in winter and off-road, fuel consumption increased. The same applied to movement in dense city traffic. But on long trips on the highway, the consumption was no more than that of an economy class car.

The trend of such a small “appetite” continued in the second generation. When driving both in the city and on the highway at different times of the year, the car showed indicators absolutely similar to the first generation. Still the same 8.4-13.8 liters per hundred, which greatly delighted fans of this model and allowed it to win the hearts of even more people.

In order not to lose the brand, the engineers tried to continue the same path in the third generation. The numbers again remained unchanged despite the fact that the engines were modified, and several electronic systems and additional units were also added. Moreover, the car turned out to be picky in choosing the brand of fuel, and the crossover could be refueled with both AI-92 and AI-95 gasoline.

The fourth generation consumes even less fuel than its predecessors. On average, in mixed mode, the car’s “appetite” is about 6.9 liters per 100 kilometers. This is a very low figure for cars of this level and type. Usually a large SUV, such as the fourth generation Toyota Highlander, is distinguished by very serious consumption, which upsets a large number of fans of large SUVs. However, Japanese engineers were able to lower this parameter to the level of a small cheap sedan.

Table with errors

Full description of error codes for Toyota cars:

General faults

The following components are subject to diagnosis:

• all sensors installed on wheels;
• anti-slip system control unit;
• wires from the ABS control module to the controllers and control unit;
• contacts on the regulators.

Transmission faults

• malfunction of the speed shift sensor;
• gear drive failure;
• damage to the cable or one of the contacts on it;
• software malfunction of the control unit or use of an old version of software (software);
• lack of communication between the engine and gearbox control modules.

Possible causes of the malfunction:

• selection mechanism stroke sensor;
• incorrect operation of the selector drive unit and speed switch assembly (system electric motor);
• automatic transmission module malfunction;
• damage or wear to the shift joint or fork rod.

• malfunction of the drive device for selecting and switching speeds in the assembly;
• short circuit in the transmission electric motor line;
• problems in the operation of the TCM module.

More details on what to check:

1. Screen filters for the solenoid valve of the variable valve timing drive. These elements can be clogged or torn, and sometimes they are not installed correctly.
2. Leakage of motor fluid at the seating surfaces of the gas distribution valve drive unit seals.
3. Interruption of the supply of engine fluid to the solenoid valve of the drive mechanism.
4. Integrity of the timing belt for wear.

Possible causes of the problem:

• incorrect compression in the engine cylinders;
• air leak;
• damage to the cylinder head gasket or head;
• faulty or clogged mass air flow sensor;
• failure of the lambda probe or damage to one of the contacts on the devices;
• fuel filter clogged;
• injector malfunction.

• failure or incorrect functioning of the electric pneumatic valve for controlling the turbocharger;
• break or short circuit on the vacuum control line;
• malfunction of the turbocharger device;
• breakdown of the recirculation system valve;
• damage to vacuum pipes or leakage;
• malfunction of the power unit control unit.

• malfunction of the fuel filter device;
• leakage or loosening of the fuel line clamps (you need to check the integrity of the nut for tightening the fuel pump cover and housing);
• breakdown of the fuel pump device.

Possible causes of the malfunction:

• battery discharge or damage;
• malfunction of the ignition switch or Start/Stop system;
• regular use of low-quality fuel;
• problems with the immobilizer;
• malfunction of the anti-theft system;
• critical engine failure;
• clogged one of the filters that affects startup;
• faulty injectors or oxygen sensors.

Sensor malfunctions

To resolve the issue, it is recommended to do the following:

1. Check the integrity of the connectors on the block connecting the sensor to the dashboard. Perhaps the contact has come loose and needs to be reconnected.
2. Diagnose the integrity of the cable through which the sensor is connected to the instrument cluster.
3. Check the quality of the connection between the controller and the transmission unit.
4. Carry out diagnostics of contacts for short circuits.

• malfunction of the boost pressure controller, sensor parameters are not within the range of normalized values;
• problems in the functioning of the turbocharger control drive unit.

• damage to the sensor power wiring or the bulbs installed in the brake lights;
• failure of the relay or safety device of the optical elements;
• damage to the fuse socket or contacts;
• malfunction of the sensor installed on the brake pedal;
• problems with the control unit.

• malfunction of the left or right front engine speed controller;
• damage to the wiring supplying the regulator;
• malfunction of the rotor speed mechanism;
• errors made when installing the sensor;
• Malfunction of the brake actuator control module assembly (ABS).

Electrical and electronic faults

Possible causes of the malfunction:

• the heating element has failed;
• the lambda probe fuse is blown;
• the wiring supplying the sensor is damaged, or a short circuit has occurred in the electrical circuit;
• the contact on the controller power supply has oxidized;
• The ECM motor control unit has failed or is not working correctly.

• stopping the engine when idling;
• difficulty starting the engine;
• “triple” of the power unit when driving uphill;
• RPM surges.

Possible causes of the malfunction:

• battery discharge;
• damage to the battery, which led to leakage of electrolyte and its inoperability;
• oxidation of the battery terminals or damage to the clamps;
• generator device malfunction;
• failure of the regulator relay;
• Damage or breakage of the drive belt.

Possible causes of the problem:

• failure of the clutch release actuator device;
• the smoothness of the fork or release bearing is impaired;
• failure of the clutch basket;
• use of non-original spare parts to repair the system;
• errors made when installing parts;
• using a control unit with outdated software.

• line damage or short circuit on the reverse light switch wire;
• failure of the switching mechanism travel controller;
• breakdown of the travel sensor of the selection mechanism;
• a malfunction of the TCM module or a software failure in its operation;
• Reverse light switch is broken.

• the control unit has not calibrated the zero position of the deceleration controller;
• the vehicle position was not stabilized during calibration;
• the SRS control module is faulty or operates intermittently;
• the control unit has failed or is not functioning correctly.

• broken or damaged line of the speed shift solenoid valve SR;
• SLU is shorted or disconnected.

damage to the wires on the instrument cluster or disconnection of contacts;

malfunction of the main wiring harness in the engine compartment;

failure of the left front anti-skid sensor;

Possible causes of the problem:

damage or wear of the harness with electrical circuits connected to the instrument cluster;

malfunction of the twisted wire assembly;

failure or disconnection of the contact from the horn button;

• the anti-skid system control module detects an impulse of a break or damage to the power line of the rear left squib;
• breakdown of the airbag knock sensor;
• failure of the control module or software failure of the SRS device.

• short circuit in the power supply wiring of the driver's knee airbag knock sensor;
• failure of the device's squib;
• breakdown or software malfunction in the operation of the SRS control module.

1. Communication error between the engine control module and the ID code block. A detailed diagnosis of the wiring harness is required.
2. Communication line failure. It is recommended to diagnose the ECM module.
3. Identification element differences detected during the exchange of information between the identifier module and the ECM. It is necessary to check the operation of the modules.

To diagnose, you need to do the following:

1. Check the battery. The cause of the problem may be its discharge, which causes the generator to work in increased mode, which leads to an increase in voltage. You need to make sure that there is no damage to the battery case, as well as the integrity of the contact clamps.
2. Perform diagnostics on the generator drive belt. If the product is worn out, it must be replaced.
3. Check the operation of the generator device. The cause of the problem may be a faulty regulator relay.

To find the cause, perform the following steps:

• the sensor itself is checked - the contact may have come off the device;
• diagnostics of the electrical circuit connected to the sensor is performed;
• The parking radar control unit is diagnosed.

Two-digit Type 9 codes

Possible causes of the malfunction:

• damage to the pins on the connection block;
• cable break or wear of the insulating layer;
• malfunction of the EFI unit itself;
• software problem;
• Battery malfunction.

• candles;
• coils;
• high-voltage wires;
• distributor.

Fault codes are considered for the following Toyota models:

• 4Runner
• Avensis T25 (Avensis T25);
• Avalon (Avalon);
• Auris (Auris);
• Aristo (Aristo);
• Brevis (Brevis);
• Caldina (Kaldina);
• Carina (Karina);
• Cami (Kami);
• Camry V40 (Camry);
• Chaser (Chaser);
• Corolla MMT, Ceres, SV40 (Corolla);
• Corona Premio (Crown Premio);
• Crown 1G FE (Crown);
• Estima (Estima);
• Fielder;
• Isis (Isis);
• Ipsum (Ipsum);
• Gracia (Grace);
• Granvia (Granvia);
• Highlander (Highlander);
• Hilux (Hilux);
• Land Cruiser 200 (Land Cruiser);
• Majesta (Majesta);
• Mark, Mark2 (Mark);
• Nadia (Nadia);
• Noax (Noah);
• Passo (Passo);
• Platz
• Prado (Prado);
• Previa (Previa);
• Prius (Prius);
• Rav4 (Rav 4);
• Soarer (Sorer);
• Surf
• Town;
• Verso (Verso);
• Vista (Vista);
• Vitz (Vitz);
• Wish (Wish);
• Yaris (Yaris);
• Windom (Windom);

Toyota Corolla E150 (2010+). Increased fuel consumption

Reasons for high fuel consumption

There are several common mistakes that inexperienced drivers make that lead to excessive fuel consumption. Remember that excess gasoline or diesel fuel will be consumed when:

The operation of the air conditioner or climate control system. The operation of these devices is related to the operation of the compressor. After all, to rotate the pump pulley, energy is required, which is taken from the rotating crankshaft. And it requires additional fuel. The operation of the heating system. This applies not only to the operation of the “stove”, but also to heated seats, windows and mirrors (in cars where these options are provided). The logic here is similar to the situation described above. Sharp acceleration. If you like to pull away quickly at traffic lights or other places, then be prepared for the fact that your car will consume more fuel than usual. This is due to the fact that any transient process (in this case, setting the machine in motion) is associated with increased energy consumption. And the sharper it is, the more energy is needed. Therefore, try to move off smoothly. This way you will not only save fuel, but also save tires, clutch and power unit components. Engine running at high speeds. Try not to over-gas. This will not only save fuel for your car, but will also have a positive effect on the overall performance of the engine. Using low-quality fuel. Try to refuel at trusted gas stations and fill the tank with the brand of fuel recommended by the car manufacturer. After all, bad fuel burns worse, provides insufficient energy and requires additional energy consumption.

Technical reasons for increased fuel consumption

First, let's look at the technical problems that contribute to increased gas mileage in a car. Let's find out the most common reasons related to the engine and other elements that increase consumption.

Engine wear

Usually occurs due to high mileage of the car or due to improper use. Some points related to engine operation:

- coolant (coolant) temperature is lower than calculated; - wear of the cylinder-piston group; - wear of the crank mechanism; - wear of the gas distribution mechanism and unadjusted valve clearances.

Clutch wear

When the driver needs to keep high revs in order to get off the road and switch to a higher gear, this directly affects fuel consumption. In this case, replacing the clutch will help.

One of the reasons for increased fuel consumption is clutch disc wear. The situation here is quite simple. During the starting process, the engine consumes more fuel than at constant speed. This fact is present even with a working clutch. If the disk or other parts of the system are faulty, then it turns out that fuel is consumed, and the car stands still. The more often the car starts moving, the greater the excess fuel consumption occurs.

In critical cases, a similar situation can occur even when driving in constant mode. That is, when the clutch disc does not ensure synchronous rotation of the engine and gearbox. This situation, although rare, can happen in the most “neglected” cases.

Diagnosing clutch wear is quite simple. To do this, you need to put the car on the handbrake, engage fifth or fourth gear (depending on the gearbox, that is, the highest) and try to get going. If you do not turn off the engine with gas, this means that the clutch needs to be repaired or completely replaced.

Ignition set incorrectly

Incorrectly set ignition also causes increased fuel consumption. In particular, if the engine “troubles”, then gasoline from the idle cylinder is released directly into the exhaust system. This leads not only to excessive fuel consumption, but also to increased wear of the catalyst.

If the ignition is simply set incorrectly, then a situation arises when the fuel does not burn completely. That is, a spark occurs before the fuel mixture appears in the cylinder in full, or after that. In any case, this leads to its incomplete combustion. This automatically means that fuel is wasted.

Therefore, always monitor the condition of the ignition system. The amount of fuel consumed directly depends on this. In addition, an incorrectly configured ignition system can cause problems when starting the engine.

Tire wear

If the tires are worn out enough or the pressure in them is less than normal, this will also lead to the car starting to “eat” more than it should. In such a situation, it is necessary to replace the tires and regularly check the tire pressure. Low-profile tires with a wide tread create increased resistance and, accordingly, increased fuel consumption.

Malfunctions of the brake system They are different, let’s consider those that lead to incomplete release of the calipers, when the so-called “wedging” occurs. If the caliper is not fully unclenched, then over time not only the brake pads, but also the discs become unusable. Due to excessive friction and resistance, fuel consumption naturally increases.

Broken spark plugs

Due to unsuitable spark plugs, the car does not operate correctly, which results in additional load on the engine. This leads not only to high fuel consumption, but also to a general deterioration in performance. To avoid this, you need to check the spark plugs. Such a check includes examining the color of carbon deposits, measuring the electrode gap, and checking the resistor for breakdown. It is also worth paying attention to the junction of the white insulator to the threaded part of the spark plug - a red coating is unacceptable.

Clogged injectors or carburetor

Clogged injectors are one of the most common causes of excessive fuel consumption. They become clogged due to natural causes. These include the use of low-quality gasoline, untimely replacement of the fuel filter, dirt getting into the engine compartment, and so on.

When the injectors are clogged, the shape of the fuel spray pattern in the combustion chamber is disrupted. Because of this, the formation of the fuel mixture is disrupted. That is, this process uses more gasoline than is necessary under normal conditions.

In some cases, due to clogged injectors, the engine may begin to “trouble.” This is expressed in a decrease in the dynamic characteristics of the car. It is also possible for the engine to operate for a long time at high speeds, even in idle mode. This naturally leads to increased fuel consumption.

Similar reasoning is valid for cars with a carburetor engine. When the carburetor becomes clogged, the same situation arises with excessive consumption of gasoline and a drop in dynamic characteristics.

Therefore, always monitor the condition of the fuel system, in particular, the injectors on an injection engine and the carburetor on a carburetor. Their clogging is a direct cause of excessive fuel consumption.

Low-octane fuel also has a great effect on consumption (low price and poor quality come with quantity).

Damage to the lambda probe or mass air flow sensor

Failure of the oxygen sensor (lambda probe) can also lead to significant excess fuel consumption. Its task is to control the amount of oxygen that goes into the fuel mixture. Therefore, if this sensor is faulty, the mixture will be created incorrectly, and this will lead to excessive fuel consumption.

The lambda probe is quite fragile. There are a number of reasons why it can fail. Among them:

-depressurization of its body and penetration of exhaust gases into it; - overheating of the sensor (this may be caused by incorrect operation of the ignition system); -natural aging and wear; - problems with the car's electrical network; - mechanical damage to the sensor. Similar reasoning applies to the mass air flow sensor (MAF). It is designed to regulate the level of air supply to the engine cylinders. Sensor malfunctions are easy to identify. As a rule, in this case the engine begins to operate unstably, especially at idle (very high or low “jumping” speeds), loss of dynamic characteristics (the car accelerates poorly). The mass air flow sensor cannot be repaired. It can only be replaced, although cleaning it may temporarily correct the situation.

Clogged air filter

The recommended replacement frequency is every 15,000 km. Timely replacement of the air filter is required, because if it is clogged and you ignore it, then be prepared for the car to have a good appetite.

Consumption is also affected by the use of air filter elements with heavy fabric pre-cleaners, since, as in the case of a clogged filter, air resistance increases. Lightweight filter elements are recommended to minimize air flow resistance.

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How to diagnose the error?

The self-diagnosis process for Toyota vehicles can only be performed using connectors DLC1 and DLC2.

The test block is made in the form of a small plastic module equipped with a lid. Depending on the car model, the location of the connector may vary, but usually it is located in the engine compartment on the left side. On the block cover there is the inscription “Diagnostic”. In older versions of Toyota, the device is located next to the battery.

For Toyota Karina cars 1992-1997, as well as Corona and Mark 1992, error codes can only be read by reading the blinking LEDs. In newer versions of vehicles, the DLC2 module is located in the vehicle interior. It can be seen under the center console panel or near the driver’s feet, under the steering wheel. The module is made in the form of an oval or circle. The diagnostic process consists of closing certain contact elements of the block, which must be connected in a specific sequence.

Algorithm for checking:

1. The protective plastic cover is removed from the connector. On the reverse side of the lining there is a special diagram showing the terminals of the block.
2. Using a piece of wire, cable or paper clip, you need to make a jumper that is mounted between the pins numbered TE1 and E1.
3. The key is inserted into the lock and the ignition is activated. When conducting diagnostics, the heating and air conditioning systems must be turned off.
4. During the test, you need to look at the Check Engine LED indicators (for diagnosing the power unit) and at O/D (for the gearbox). The user must record the number of blinks of the light bulb, as well as the intervals.

Pin designation on the DLC diagnostic block

You can determine the absence of malfunctions in the operation of the internal combustion engine (ICE) and gearbox by two symptoms:

• LED lights blinked evenly at the same interval and duration 11 times;
• The Check indicator blinks continuously and evenly at intervals of 4.5 seconds.

If there is no contact diagram on the cover or it has been erased, you can determine the required pins as follows:

1. The car's ignition system turns on.
2. One of the contact elements of the light indicator is connected to any standard engine ground bolt.
3. The second output of the light bulb is connected in turn to each contact of the diagnostic block.
4. At the moment when the Check indicator lights up on the dashboard, we can conclude that the required pin has been found.

To read the code you need to count the LED blinks:

• when a combination appears, the LED blinks quickly, lights up for a few tenths of one second;
• the time interval between decimal and unit readings will be no more than 1.5 s;
• the pause between each subsequent code will be 2.5 seconds;
• series of codes for various problems are separated by a pause of 4.5 s.

Video: Toyota car self-diagnosis

The JDM27 channel in its video showed the process of diagnosing the engine and automatic transmission of a Toyota car.

I found information - 20 reasons for increased fuel consumption.

A lot of articles have been written about the “question of questions” for probably every car enthusiast - increased fuel consumption. And reading these publications (both in print and on the Internet) one can come to the conclusion that fuel consumption is affected only by the tired “20 most likely causes of increased fuel consumption”

1. Late ignition. Shifting the angle by 1 degree increases flow rate by 1%. 2. Incorrectly set gaps in spark plugs, as well as interruptions in the operation of spark plugs - 10%. 3. Low beam headlights increase consumption by 5%, high beam by 10%. 4. Coolant temperature below the calculated one increases the flow rate by 10%. 5. Driving on a cold engine increases consumption by 20%. 6. Increased wear of the cylinder-piston group. Each reduced atmosphere (compression unit) increases flow rate by 10%. 7. Wear of the crank mechanism - 10%. 8. Clutch wear - 10%. 9. Wear of the gas distribution mechanism, as well as unadjusted valve clearances - up to 20%. 10. Overtightened wheel hub bearings (poor rolling) - by 15%. 11. Unadjusted camber - 10%.

12. Reduced tire pressure - 9% for every 0.5 kg/cm2. 13. Every 100 kg of cargo - by 10%. A loaded roof rack increases consumption by 40%, an empty one by 5%. Trailer - 60%. 14. Driving style by 50%. 15. Untimely replacement of the air filter (recommended frequency - once every 5 thousand km) increases consumption by 10%. The use of air filter elements with heavy fabric pre-cleaners increases consumption by 5%. Light filter elements without precleaners are recommended. The air flow resistance through such a filter is minimal. 16. Problems associated with the power system (carburetor; fuel pump) - up to 50%. 17. Use of low-octane gasoline (even when you fill up with AI-95, you never know what you’ll fill) - up to 5%. 18. Deformed motors with a reduced compression ratio - up to 10%. 19. Headwind - up to 10%. 20. Driving on a highway with a low coefficient of adhesion - up to 10% Having read to the end, you can say: “In principle, this is correct.” But only for which car brands? Apparently - exclusively for domestic ones. In addition, the question immediately arises about the genius of the author (authors), who so accurately and meticulously calculated everything as a percentage and even managed to calculate that fuel consumption in a headwind for Zhiguli and Land Cruiser will be 10 percent higher than usual. Despite the different weight of cars. Not paying attention to the speed of movement. At wind speed. Without paying attention to... - and here we can list, perhaps, two or three dozen reasons why this “percentage” will be fundamentally incorrect. Especially for foreign cars, because there is no way to “tighten the wheel hub bearings.” And many other points are also “not entirely” applicable. Of course, these “20 reasons...” can be taken as the “basis” for “general development,” so to speak.

We will try to talk more specifically and specifically about the possible causes of fuel consumption on Japanese cars with electronic fuel injection systems. Just talk and only assume, because this question is a “slippery” question, since increased fuel consumption can be influenced by so many reasons that it is impossible to assume. Besides the banal ones, of course: interruptions in sparking, for example, and so on, which will be discussed below.

Yes, and clients also often come to our workshop complaining about “increased fuel consumption.”

And sometimes the “consumption” figures are called “simply amazing” - in one case, a Nissan with a 1,500 cm3 engine “ate”, according to the client, MORE than 20 LITERS ON THE HOUR, and in the city - more than 25 liters.

This is how an engine should work and how to accurately calculate excessive fuel consumption?!

...by the way: surprisingly, almost all clients who complain about large excess fuel consumption somehow manage to calculate this excess consumption to literally 100 grams. In extreme cases, up to 500 grams (“my engine “eats” fifteen and a half or sixteen and a half liters per hundred kilometers”). You look at such a driver and... you remain silent. Well, you yourself understand why.

It is almost always difficult to explain to a person that if he read in some book (?!!) that his “swallow” should “eat”, for example, 11 liters, but his fuel consumption in city mode is 14.5 liters (?) and only “on the highway” the fuel consumption becomes “exactly 11 liters” (???) - it is difficult to explain to a person that the indicated liters of consumption for his car were measured on an “ideal car and in ideal conditions.” It is always beneficial for a car company to present some new concept - a car in the best possible way. Especially in terms of fuel consumption. And there they will actually measure fuel consumption literally down to one gram. And if it is, for example, 10 liters 150 grams per 100 kilometers, then experts will always be able to contrive and reduce it to a nice round figure. But this is all to the point.

What kind of cars mostly “run” across the expanses of Russia?

That's right, with a mileage of at least more than 70 thousand kilometers. And it is also difficult to say under what specific conditions a particular machine was operated. And you can’t compare your car with the exact same car of your neighbor in the parking lot, from whom it “eats” nothing at all - yours was “driven by boys” in Japan, and his was driven sedately by a farmer and only on Sundays to church... do you feel the difference?

And also, also most importantly, how to measure your fuel consumption?

After all, almost none of the “complainers” checked their fuel consumption in the most reasonable and accessible ways, described, by the way, in many magazines and articles, including in the magazine “Behind the Wheel”: 1. Stop the car on a flat section of the road and notice the position wheels

2. Fill gasoline “under the neck.”

3. We take a test drive around the city and return to the same place where we started.

4. Place the car in the same (original) position

5.Using a measuring container (canister), fill the tank again with fuel “under the neck” and record the amount of gasoline filled.

6. Next is pure arithmetic: we divide the amount of fuel added by the number of kilometers that the car has traveled and we get the result - “such and such fuel consumption for so many kilometers.”

There is another simpler (but less accurate) way:

1. Wait for the “Low Fuel” light to light up.

2. We refuel the car, reset the odometer readings (many Japanese cars have an “additional speedometer” with which you can determine your “daily mileage”) and record the readings.

3. We drive as usual.

4 . When the red light comes on (“fuel!!!”), we look at the odometer and again write down the “kilometers”.

5. Divide the number of liters poured into the fuel tank by the mileage. We record the driving mode: city, highway, mixed. And if you also note the intensity of city traffic, time of day, ambient temperature, and anything else that is significant in your opinion, then you can calculate changes in consumption depending on the specified conditions.

In addition, there is an important condition that is “purely Russian” and which should be remembered and taken into account when calculating your fuel consumption: on average, the fuel dispenser “underfills” about 0.5 liters, which is due to many factors, including its design ( you probably understand what I wanted to say).

Therefore, whether we fill up with five or fifty liters, we will get completely different results. Calculate for yourself: 0.5 liters from 5 liters is 10%, and from 50 liters is only 1%.

So, filling the tank with 20 liters once is more profitable than 2 times 10. Well, driving with an empty tank at sub-zero temperatures guarantees the formation of condensation in the tank. And even Japanese cars can’t drive on water.

Note that all these methods are far from “ideal”, however, a better option for measuring your fuel consumption for a “just a driver” has not yet been invented.

Of course, fuel consumption on the highway and in the city are “two big differences,” but using these “data” you can, albeit approximately, clarify for yourself the “health” of your car.

So, let's try to shed some light on this issue - what can influence increased fuel consumption?

Engine Coolant Temperature (THW) Sensor

As we already know, one of the main sensors is the "engine coolant temperature" sensor, or THW, which is located in the thermostat "area". Its readings are extremely important for stable and economical operation of the engine, because depending on the resistance of the sensor, the computer “calculates” the amount of fuel that the engine needs to operate at the temperature “given” to it by the sensor.

On different brands and models of cars, THW readings are different, but if we say “average”, then for a “cold” engine the sensor will “show” a resistance from 2 to 6 Kom (depending on the temperature “overboard”), and for a “hot” engine - 250-350 Ohm.

Now imagine that “our” temperature sensor “tells” the computer, with the engine fully warmed up, that the engine is “still a little cold,” that is, it “shows” a resistance of 500 ohms or more.

What does a computer do?

The processor “compares” those readings that are “hardwired” into its Memory and “understands” that with a given resistance, “more fuel is needed.”

And “expands” the pulses to the nozzles (injectors).

And more fuel enters the cylinders. But this is a consequence. And the reason, or rather, there may be several reasons:

Malfunction of the temperature sensor itself Malfunction of the thermostat

“airiness” of the cooling system; malfunction of the radiator; and, in extreme cases (this, however, only happened a few times) – an “error” of the computer itself.

In addition, the temperature sensor is “directly connected” to the automatic transmission. And the “Japanese electronics” are so “correctly designed” that if, for example, the sensor “does not produce” the set temperature, then the automatic transmission will not switch to a higher gear and the car will “plod along” at a reduced speed and “wildly consume fuel.”

"Oxygen Sensor" or "oxygen sensor"

Another, no less “common” disease is the “oxygen sensor” or “scientifically”:

"Oxygen Sensor".

To check it, as well as to check the composition of the mixture supplied to the cylinders, you can use a simple test (the description is given only for Toyota cars).

warm up the engine to operating temperature, connect the “+” of the dial gauge (voltmeter) to the VF or VF 1 terminal of the diagnostic connector, and the “minus” of the voltmeter to terminal E 1

“bring” the engine to 2500 rpm mode for 90 seconds, short-circuit terminals TE 1 or T and E1 - the device should register voltage ripple with a frequency of more than 8 times in 10 seconds. Note: if the pulsation frequency is lower than specified, remove the jumper from terminals TE and E1.

· “holding” the engine at 2500 rpm, measure the voltage between terminals VF 1 or VF and E1.

· if voltage is present - Oxygen Sensor must be replaced

· if there is no voltage, read the fault code

· disconnect the crankcase ventilation valve hose

Connect a voltmeter to terminals VF and E1

If there is voltage, the mixture is TOO RICH

· if after the first check there was no voltage ripple, remove the jumper from terminals TE1 and E1

· at 2500 rpm mode, measure the voltage between terminals VF and E1

· If the voltage is 5 volts, disconnect the coolant temperature sensor connector.

· install a resistance of 5 – 10 Kohm into the connector and “short-circuit” terminals TE1 and E1

· “bring” the engine to 2500 rpm for 90 seconds

· if the voltage between terminals VF and E1 is about 5 volts, the mixture is TOO LEAN.

I repeat that the verification scheme described above is approximate. And if you want to learn more or “deeper” about the oxygen sensor, then visit Vladimir Leshchenko’s page:

www. alflash. people. ru, where everything is described in more detail.

Note: recently, with the advent of special literature on the principles of operation of electronic fuel injection systems, some “auto mechanics” (“car service dealers”, you can’t call them anything else), have found an additional “source of income” for themselves, which is called:

"Diagnostics of increased fuel consumption on your car."

Having read and “read a lot” of various kinds of articles and determined for myself a little that

- the “oxygen sensor” has a rather strong effect on increased fuel consumption and that - this statement is almost impossible for the client to double-check, and - the “oxygen sensor” costs on average about 300 US dollars (new),

These, if I may say so, “auto specialists” make quite a good deal of money and simply make a LOT of money from carrying out such “diagnostics”, taking full advantage of the client’s “technical incompetence”.

“Clever look”, “mentoring tone”, “clever expressions” and in the end, without doing practically anything, you can confidently “rip off” a few hundred from the client “for diagnostics”. Because almost none of the clients will order a new oxygen sensor from Japan for “three hundred bucks”, but, having “resigned themselves to Fate”, will continue to drive and remember with the kind words of the auto repairman who explained to him, a person far from technology, the reason for excessive fuel consumption:

- unfortunately, your oxygen sensor is completely “frozen”, that’s why your fuel consumption is more than 20 liters...

And then there are “explanations”: they say that the fuel we have in Russia is “crap”, gasoline is leaded, which “destroys” the oxygen sensor almost immediately, the sensor cannot be restored, I sympathize... you are charged four hundred rubles for the diagnosis.

What remains for the client?

Just take my word for it - so much has been said! And how beautifully said!

But the client does not have the opportunity to “look from above” at this problem, look and make small statistics: “how many specific cars have increased fuel consumption specifically because of the oxygen sensor?”

And the answer, surprisingly, will be: “a very small percentage.” And not twice as much, because even for an oxygen sensor it sounds crazy.

Yes exactly.

And therefore, it is impossible to “unequivocally and definitely” say that only the Oxygen Sensor is “to blame” for the increased fuel consumption.

There can be many reasons, and one can overlap with another.

...Of course, there are not so many such “masters”, but it is worth taking into account the likelihood of such a “diagnosis”.

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

By the way, has anyone paid attention to the fact that as the position of the throttle position sensor changes, the ignition timing also changes?

In a Japanese car, everything is interconnected. It’s not for nothing that the computer “monitors” TPS readings in two “directions” - through the “VTA” contact and the “IDL” contact.

The “VTA” contact “tells” the computer that the throttle position has changed, and the “IDL” contact (idle contact) tells the computer whether the throttle valve is currently in the “idle” position or not.

And if you initially incorrectly “set” the TPS, especially the “idle contacts” (IDL), then the computer will begin to “make mistakes”, taking the distorted TPS readings as “correct”. Errors that arise in this case:

· increased idle speed

Incorrect (early or late) ignition timing

· unstable engine operation at idle

· incorrect composition of the fuel-air mixture

Idle Air Control Valve

This valve, due to its “incorrect” operation, can “help” the engine “keep” increased idle speed. And not only that - violation of the initial adjustment will have a negative impact on engine operation in almost all operating modes.

This valve is controlled by a computer: on older models, the computer “supplies” just +12 volts to the valve, which changes the position of the bimetallic plate inside the valve, and it, in turn, moves a special plate in one direction or another, decreasing or increasing flow area for additional air to enter the intake manifold. On “newer” cars there is no longer a bimetallic plate; a stepper motor is already “working” inside.

Injector

Yes, it is the injector (nozzle), due to the use of dirty fuel or fuel with water, as well as due to ordinary “aging” or “wear” that can “smoothly transition” into such a state that its mechanical part (needle, seat) begins to leak “excess” » fuel in the position where the injector should be “closed”. For engines with “central injection” - “Ci”, the issue of sealing a single injector is also urgent - at some point the rubber rings “refuse” to seal and fuel consumption increases incredibly. You can check this statement in a fairly simple way:

Unscrew (on three bolts) and remove the upper protective cover of the nozzle

· turn on the ignition

· bridge the “FP” and “+ B” contacts on the diagnostic connector block (the fuel pump should start - you will hear the “rustling” of fuel in the fuel line)

· highlighting the “carrying” and observe the nozzle for one minute - whether fuel will “drip” from it onto the throttle valve or not. If a few drops “fall” during this time, this is still “tolerable”, but “ideally” fuel should not "drip".

In the same way, by the way, you can check the tightness of any other “starting” injector on any other type of engine where it is available.

“Abnormal” air leak

For this check, you can use any aerosol can containing a slightly flammable mixture, for example, “carburetor cleaning fluid.”

Having started the engine, we direct the aerosol stream to possible places of “abnormal” leakage of additional air. If air leakage exists in one place or another, the engine speed will immediately increase for some time.

It is very important to pay attention to something that no one ever pays attention to - a possible air leak in the exhaust manifold in front of the oxygen sensor.

Almost all cars have a so-called “corrugation” in front of the catalyst. And if it is either “worn” or even torn, then you have “extra” liters of excessive fuel consumption (the oxygen sensor “perceives” this excess air as a “lean mixture” and automatically “adds " fuel).

Fuel system: "Check valve"

You probably know why this valve is needed: to maintain a certain pressure in the “fuel rail.” Now let’s imagine that instead of the “set” “two and a half kilograms per square centimeter” the valve “holds” the pressure a little more. What will happen in in this case?

Correct: more fuel will get into the cylinders.

Of course, the oxygen sensor will immediately “notify” the computer about this.

But each computer has acceptable limits for adjusting the mixture composition. He may not be able to “adjust” the composition of the mixture.

But if the computer “removes” excess fuel, the engine power will decrease and the driver will involuntarily “press harder on the gas”...

Whatever one may say - again increased fuel consumption.

Ignition advance

In short, the “ignition advance angle” is set in order to make maximum use of the engine power “inherent in the passport.” That is, by correctly “setting” the ignition advance angle we will “create” such “favorable” conditions “inside” the cylinder that our fuel-air mixture will be “ignited” and “explode” at just the right moment.

And not “later” or “earlier”, which will provoke a decrease in power and other “troubles”.

Now - the “most interesting” part.

Have you ever noticed that if, when the engine is running at XX, you bridge the “diagnostic contacts” E 1-TE 1 in the diagnostic connector, then the “sound” of the engine will change?

Right. Will change.

When these contacts are bridged and the engine is running, we “turn off” the electronic ignition timing system.

And only now can you use a strobe to “set” the desired

(and correct!) ignition timing.

However, in most cases, few people pay attention to this “nuance”.

Another thing is that the quality of our fuel leaves much to be desired...

And quite often it happens that when the ignition timing is set correctly, the engine begins to “desperately detonate.”

So you have to “adjust” the ignition timing “for gasoline.” And you yourself understand how all this “amateur activity” affects increased fuel consumption...

Spark plug

Ask yourself: “When was the last time you checked the condition of your spark plugs?”

The answer will probably be: “...once upon a time...”.

However, spark plugs are “not an eternal product.”

They wear out. Namely, after, for example, five to seven thousand kilometers, the previously set gap between the electrodes will increase, albeit not by much, but will still increase

(by 0.1mm, approximately).

What do we get as a result if we don’t check the spark plug gap in a timely manner?

That's right - increased spark plug gap.

From practice, we can say that sometimes we “came across” gaps of three or more millimeters.

And if you do not take into account other “troubles” that “help” the ignition system to fail, then an increased spark plug gap is a “direct path” to increased fuel consumption.

Reduced engine power

This can happen for a variety of reasons, including those described above.

What happens in this case and “in what way” can a decrease in engine power affect an increase in fuel consumption?

The answer is simple, “like three rubles”:

When engine power decreases for various reasons, the car begins to “pull” worse, and the driver intuitively “turns up the gas.” The speed of movement remains practically the same as before, and much more fuel enters and “flies” into the cylinders. Here's another reason for increased fuel consumption...

What can we say in conclusion: the issue of “increased fuel consumption” is really “a question of questions” and its solution must be approached comprehensively.

Of course, not all the reasons for this are described in this article.

You always need to “think specifically for each car,” because cars and their electronic systems are as different from each other as people are - each specific “electronics” has its own “character” and its own “mood.”

How to reset the error?

To clear a fault code, perform the following steps:

1. The car's ignition system turns on.
2. On the diagnostic block, to reset the memory of the control unit, contacts TC and E1 are closed.
3. Over the next three seconds, the user must press the brake pedal at least 8 times.
4. Then you need to make sure that the LED indicator blinks with a pause of 0.5 seconds.
5. The ignition is turned off and the jumper is disconnected from the pins. If the error codes are successfully cleared, the anti-lock brake indicator will not illuminate on the instrument panel.

You can use a computer to remove combinations of faults. If the diagnostics were performed using a laptop, software is used to reset the memory.

The cost of diagnosing errors for Ford at service stations in Moscow and St. Petersburg

Approximate prices for computer diagnostics of faults: