Let's take the following as a given - the standard suspension of gasoline non-all-wheel drive Corollas is only suitable for moving on smooth asphalt with a load of 1-2 people.
If you drive on ideal roads, then you are lucky, or you are not in Russia. The rest can either drive on our off-road terrain, peeling off the bottom and tearing off the muffler, or adapt the car to our conditions - “lift” it and drive quietly.
When describing the “lifting” process, we will call the entire model range Corolla: Corolla, Sprinter, Levin, Trueno, Ceres, Marino.
That is, everything said below will fit any of these cars in any body (AE100, AE101, EE106, etc.), with the only amendment that we will not put springs on a rack-mount car and vice versa. In addition, this can also work on younger models - 110 bodies, etc.
You should also understand that we are talking about standard parts, that is, if we take a rack from Levin with 4A-GE, then we take a stock rack, and not a sports Belstein.
conclusions
For 150 Toyota Corolla bodies, a gap of up to 150 mm is typical. But for a 120 body it could be 160 or 170 mm. The best way to increase ground clearance on a Toyota Corolla. This is to install struts, which cost less than a support and spring.
Toyota Corolla. This is a class C car, one of the oldest and best-selling models of the Japanese manufacturer. The first generation model appeared in 1966 and quickly gained popularity in many countries around the world. In particular, according to the sales rating, the first Corolla was able to get into the Guinness Book of Records. Data from the 1974 show.
At that time, total sales of Toyota Corolla exceeded 25 million units, which became an absolute world record for one model. In 2006, Toyota celebrated the 40th anniversary of the Corolla. At that time, the tenth generation Corolla was released, and total sales (over 40 years) exceeded 35 million vehicles.
The famous first generation Toyota Corolla rolled off the assembly line in 1980. Many generations have changed since then, and today the 11th generation Corolla is in production. The car is known in sedans and trucks.
The engine range consists of 1.3 and 1.6 liter engines with a displacement of 99 and 122 liters. With. According.
Increased clearance. Pros and cons.
Actually, for a long time I wanted to make the car a little higher by 10-20 mm, and then I found out that spacers can be ordered for only 2.5 thousand rubles. and thought deeply. Actually, the disadvantages of such a solution are troubling. The first thing that came to mind was how much the life of the suspension elements would decrease (I specifically asked the master’s opinion - he said that at such a height it is not very significant). Plus there is also the issue of safety in a collision - the engineers probably calculated safety specifically at the factory ground clearance. It is also worrying that when installing spacers of the same height, due to some design features, the front lift is 5 mm less than the stern (again, questions about safety and controllability).
I propose to think together about the indicated disadvantages - is this true? I would also really like to hear the opinions of those who have already had experience with such modifications.
protonnt
, we have raised springs, but the struts are ordinary for Europe, they often knock on rebound, if you put spacers, for example, under the time between the glass and the support itself, there are such for cans. But isn't it easier to buy tires with a larger profile?
Z.s and any changes in ground clearance affect the angles of the same balls, rods and drives, but they are designed to work at other angles. In terms of braking, you shouldn’t worry about it, we have abs, a brake force distribution system and emergency braking assistance, they will sort everything out
Video. Increased ground clearance
Clearance. The distance between the road surface and the lowest point of the center of the vehicle. The higher this indicator, the lower the likelihood of damage to the dungeon when driving on an unsuitable road surface. The gap size varies in different Toyota Corolla models, but is rarely less than 150 mm.
Vehicles delivered to our country are adapted to Russian roads and have increased ground clearance, which allows them to overcome road bumps and various obstacles. If you compare the photos posted in foreign reviews, you will see that the "Wreaths" produced in European countries have low fender arches and fit under the wheels. At the same time, in cars adapted for our country, even in American ones, shock absorbers are even visible.
What is the standard ground clearance for the Corolla?
Different generations of Toyota Corolla cars have different ground clearance. Ground clearance is the height from the road surface to the lowest point of the car . Often this indicator goes from the threshold of the vehicle to the asphalt.
120 and 150 body
Factory ground clearance of the Corolla in the photo!
So, what ground clearance is installed on different versions of the Toyota Corolla body 120 and 150:
- Toyota Corolla restyling 2010, sedan, X generation, E150 - for this type of car the ground clearance is 150 mm .
- Toyota Corolla 2007, sedan, X generation, E150 . So, as in the previous case, the distance from the car to the road is 150 mm .
- Toyota Corolla 2002 station wagon IX generation, E120, Toyota Corolla 2002 hatchback IX generation, Toyota Corolla 2002 sedan IX generation . In this generation 120, the body clearance, like the previous two, is 150 mm .
- Toyota Corolla 2nd restyling 2004 sedan IX generation and Toyota Corolla restyling 2002 sedan IX generation . For these vehicles, the established ground clearance is 160 and 170 mm .
- Toyota Corolla 2000, sedan, IX generation - this generation of Japanese cars received a standard factory ground clearance of 160 mm .
Methods for adjusting and changing ride height
Standard ground clearance is often insufficient for normal vehicle operation, especially in the absence of normal road surface. To increase the clearance, you can perform a so-called body lift, which may include installing special struts and replacing chassis elements. This way you can lift your body a few inches. Excessive lifting of the machine can lead to loss of control, especially at high speeds, and can also cause rapid wear on some parts.
Many Corollas have a special type of suspension that adjusts the distance to the roadway. Air suspension. Its device has special elastic pneumatic elements that allow you to change the level of the body relative to the road surface. The use of such a device eliminates the need to increase the gap by refining the suspensions and installing special spacers.
The user said thank you:
Yes, that’s just the point, it’s not for the dacha. When I bought a car two years ago, the roads in our city were more or less normal and I didn’t buy a Duster, which I had enough money for back then. Last year, due to the crisis, the roads were almost not repaired, and this spring, throughout the city, the asphalt began to melt away along with the snow, and no one really cleaned the snow slush. Therefore, the issue of clearance became very acute. Tires with a larger profile are of course good, but firstly, on the 15th radius, standard tires already have a high profile, and secondly, you can’t spend a couple of thousand here, and there’s not a lot of free money in the family.
Again, by safety issue I don’t mean ABS and so on, but programmable deformation of the body and airbags. It seems to me that only God knows how they will work in an accident if the car is lifted up, and even the front end is lower than the stern. And the moose test is not particularly important - I rarely go on the road and don’t drive more than 110. On the previous Kalina, too, the shock absorbers were soft and the center of gravity was high, but I drove it for 4 years perfectly - the main thing is to feel where the limits of the car’s capabilities are. So the only thing that stops you from using spacers is the uneven lifting and safety issues.
Now the money from the sale of the Corolla is not even enough to buy the same Duster with two airbags, which is why I created the topic.
Source
Equipped with air suspension on Toyota Corolla
There are four possible levels of air suspension in the Corolla range:
- Lade is the constant and lowest ground clearance.
- StraKen and Offroad. These are automatically adjusted distances on the ground that are used based on vehicle speed.
- X'tra. Largest continuous clearance.
When using any of the four modes, both axles will maintain a constant distance on the road depending on the load. The height sensors used in this suspension constantly measure the distance between the axles and the vehicle body. If the gap changes slightly, the machine will reduce or increase the pressure in the suspension and bring it to the optimal value in this operating mode.
The air suspension also has another additional function. Mode for lifting the car to change a wheel.
Front suspension
We take the front struts and springs from a Corolla in the 104 (4WD) body, from a diesel Corolla, or from a Corolla with a 4A-GE engine. The distinctive features of these racks are that they are collapsible and have a rod with a diameter of 22 mm (versus 20 for standard ones).
The springs on these machines are different, but in any case they have a larger rod diameter and an increased number of turns, so you can install any of them.
Comparison of the stock strut (left) and the strut from the 4WD model (right).
Unfortunately, these racks can be quite difficult to find. In this case, you can use the racks from the Corona-Karina-Kaldina in the 190 body.
If you buy a “contract” stand from the crown (assembled kit), you will have to throw away its spring and upper cup - they will not suit us.
The front strut differs from the crown strut ONLY in the brake hose mounting bracket.
To remake the fastening, it is necessary to cut off part of the bracket and attach an adapter plate to the remaining part.
The following photographs show the strut from the crown before and after reworking the brake hose fastening:
ATTENTION!!!
When using a crown post, there are two things to consider.
First. If you don't cut off part of the brake hose mount on the strut, the mount may touch the brake hose mount on the body (and worse, the brake hose itself), see right photo. Be sure to shorten the king bracket!
Second. Powerful struts (both from the Corolla and from the Crown) have a slightly different cup shape for the spring. As a result, if strut-to-body spacers thicker than 18mm are used, the strut cup and brake hose mount on the body may touch (see left photo).
To avoid this, you need to either bend the fastening on the body (just be careful - it is welded and can come off), or reduce the thickness of the spacer.
In any case, no matter what kind of rack is used, after completing all the work, make sure that when turning the steering wheel all the way, the elements of the rack do not touch body parts and brake hoses.
Moreover, this must be observed both on a fully suspended rack and on a completely “crushed” one (press with a jack under the hub).
I wouldn’t use crown springs at the front - when uncompressed, they are much longer than Corolla springs and the rod is thicker. The front with such springs will become ultra stiff, which is good only for racers and perverts.
The final touch in “tuning” the front suspension is installing spacers between the body and the strut.
The maximum thickness of spacers is 20 mm. If you do more, the right actuator may touch the lever, and the left one may hang out at a greater angle. In addition, the wheel camber will change unacceptably.
There are two types of spacers. The first is the so-called. “soldiers” are cylinders that are screwed onto the standard studs of the rack and have their own stud at the opposite end.
This option is bad because dirt from under the wheels will get into the voids between the pillar, body and soldiers.
Dirt will end up in the engine bay or interior and can cause corrosion. Notice how rusty the nut on the stem is and how much dirt is on the soldiers and the cup.
On the left is a stand with “soldiers”, on the right – without.
Please note that if the cylinders are too small in diameter, they will simply bend the metal of the body. It seems to me that the “correct” diameter is 30 mm.
The second type of spacers are “washers”. They can be made from metal, caprolon, conveyor belt, etc. The main thing is that it is durable. I myself spent three years using spacers made of five layers of thin conveyor belt until I found metal ones.
If “washers” are used, it is necessary to replace the strut studs with longer ones. Replacement is only possible with the top cup removed. The old ones are knocked out with a hammer and new ones are pressed in their place. With the same hammer.
The best option is to use aluminum spacers manufactured for cans. They fit perfectly into the mounting holes. The only thing that may not “grow together” is the protrusion of the upper cup of the strut and the inner hole of the spacer.
Be sure to make sure that the spacer lies flat on the stand cup and does not “hang” on the protrusion of the cup. Finish with a file if necessary)
By the way, TAZ spacers come complete with extended studs. The only thing I was kidding about is that the piece of paper says 18 mm, but in reality the spacers are 16 mm thick. Be carefull.
Pelvic spacers that fit the Corolla after finishing with a file.
At the end of the work, be sure to check the tightness of all bolts and nuts, to ensure that there are no abnormal contacts with the rack and other parts.
And lastly, it is necessary to adjust the wheel alignment on the stand.
