Why does ABS work on dry roads? We figure it out and fix it

There are frequent complaints among drivers that the ABS is activated on a dry road.
But there is no need to panic without serious reasons. Indeed, when buying a car equipped with such a device, people often don’t even think about how the anti-lock braking system should operate and what its protective properties are. So sometimes the depicted worries turn out to be groundless in reality. The task set by the designers for ABS is to prevent wheel locking during sudden, emergency braking. The main result of the system is to keep the car on a given trajectory and maintain its controllability. Sharply pressing the brakes on a car without ABS in most cases results in the car drifting into oncoming traffic or into a ditch.

Even without such catastrophic consequences, the car still starts to skid - at least it gets to its fellow travelers in the lane. The situation becomes even more aggravated on slippery and wet road surfaces. In addition to increasing the braking distance, such conditions simply guarantee that the car will be thrown out of its trajectory. During emergency braking, ABC prevents such troubles, making it possible to avoid a sudden obstacle or brake without loss for yourself and others.

Information

Possible causes of poor heating When the heater in the back of a Toyota Corolla does not heat well, you need to consider two main potential causes. If the stove does not work at all, then try checking the condition of the relays and fuses in the mounting block.

Often the reason turns out to be trivial and easily eliminated. When the problem is not in the relay or fuses, you have two options - go to a car service center, where they will charge you who knows how much and for what, or take on the Toyota Corolla yourself.

This will take more time, but will save money and provide invaluable experience in car repair and maintenance. Let's look at the potential causes and troubleshooting steps separately.

Poor circulation of coolant in the radiator Your stove blows cold air or slightly warm air if the circulation of coolant inside the heating radiator is impaired. In this situation, you need to: Check the coolant level by looking into the expansion tank.

The stove is blowing cold please help

If there is little cooling liquid, there may not be enough for the stove to operate efficiently. Before -5 you don’t pay attention, but when...18 it sucks.

This is the temperature we have right now. How to deceive Japanese designers. This piece of plastic is also a different color than everything around it.

I coated the edge with sealant and pressed it down. Now Tashkent, the air always comes out of the central deflectors naturally hot when the heater is on.

Previously, with the central deflectors closed, it was impossible to switch some air direction modes; the air pressure interfered. So I disconnected them from the radiator and pulled it out! There were rubber rings on the pipes!

I read on the forums how one person washed it with mole - a remedy for blockages! It's better not to do this.

At first I just filled it with water - a lot of dirt came out, then everything started foaming from the inside and the dirt continued to come out, and the radiator became incredibly hot! And only then did I realize that this mole had destroyed the radiator.

I hoped that the radiator still didn’t have a hole and decided to put everything back together! It is very, very inconvenient to place these pipes in place - there is no space, it is unrealistic to squeeze the ends onto the radiator on all sides!

Diagnostics of climate control of Toyota Corolla Fielder.

But an hour later everything was done, the antifreeze was filled in and the radiator was leaking.

Alarm lamp

But when the light responsible for ABS does not go out after 2-3 seconds after turning on the ignition, the system does not activate when turning, when the pedal is soft, at low speed, when the road surface is dry, and the incident is accompanied by suspicious sounds, it’s time to be wary .
The verification will include several stages. Ringing of the entire chain. The wires may be damaged, the terminals may come loose or oxidize, and the corresponding fuses responsible for the sensors on the wheels may blow out.

The main vulnerable component in the ABS, according to users and experts, is sensors. By themselves they are quite reliable. But they are located in such a place that they constantly experience too much stress. Dust, leaking oil and other delights of road life greatly affect the performance of devices. Often it is enough to simply clean the socket and the sensor itself so that it again starts sending the required signals to the on-board computer.

Failures often occur after repairs to any other components located near the sensor. In this case, rest assured: he simply left his nest and does not correctly perceive the incoming information. When you reinstall it to the proper depth, it becomes operational again.

see also

Comments 21

MB, who will need this information? On the nze124 fielder, when I was changing the fan, I noticed that for the 3 bolts holding it in, you need either a star screwdriver or a flat one, there is a braid going under it that does not allow it to be removed, do not try to rip it off, there is a clip on the side, You squeeze it on both sides and it comes off easily. And so, a huge thank you to the author for the post, thanks to him, at -20 I didn’t freeze too much)) And yes, my cover in the passenger’s feet does not come off completely, but bends down, is held on by 2 clips, unfortunately they did not survive, I had to take a couple of new ones

How is the car warm in cold weather or not? My 4zz runs fine, but it cools down on the spot, and it’s not yet -25, but only -15.

Dude, I sold the car about 3 years ago))) I definitely didn’t freeze in it

So we will bet 1zz.

Well, how lucky you are! But along the way, I’ll have to take it from analysis...

The brushes are easy to change, the main thing is to choose the size 8*8

The impeller is removed. I was just doing this today, I disassembled exactly the same fan, only not Bosh of course, but it looks like yours in the photo. In general, to remove the impeller you need to remove the locking clip, then slightly bend the plastic separate tooth in front of the shaft knob, and spend a long time tediously prying it from below (I did this with a knife), but here they do it with scissors -

. After removing the impeller, there is a whole epic of removing the engine itself from the plastic housing, but the whole joke is that I still didn’t get to the bearings themselves, because it’s not clear how to disassemble them further. Unlike the author of the video, I also removed the foam gasket above the upper bearing and coated everything generously with Lithol as best I could. Then I sprayed 5 ml of Dexron 3 into the gaps between the shaft and the gaskets. There was 3 times more kaki than yours, plus there were branches! And some kind of plant seeds! Since there is no cabin filter in Surf, a lot of this crap gets stuffed in there. But in the end I did not eliminate the cause; the fan blows very powerfully, but the sound does not go away. It’s as if something is touching something somewhere, although I looked through everything and there are no mechanical impediments to torsion anywhere. In short, I wasted half a day in vain. We'll have to take it apart...

Content

• Alarm lamp
• Sensor check
• ECU

Does ABS work on dry roads? Well, in such an emergency situation the system must also react. By the way, with its help, the braking distance is reduced, and significantly - up to 20%. So you can say that your ABS is capricious only if it is constantly activated, and at low speeds. And this time, a third of the complainants eventually withdraw their complaints: their driving style is to blame. Either they constantly tear the pedal, and the system perceives the situation as an emergency, or they repeatedly press the brake, confusing the ABS electronics.

ECU

The on-board computer can fail much less often than sensors. However, software glitches also occur in it. If the test shows the integrity of the electrical circuit and the functionality of the sensor, but errors are displayed constantly, changing and difficult to recognize, you may have a problem with the ECU. In order to refute or confirm suspicions, you should do the following:

• Manually disable the sensors on all wheels at once;
• Start up and make a circle around the neighborhood, braking at different speeds and with different sharpness;
• Since no information is sent to the ECU, it should not react in any way to your experiments.

If, nevertheless, the ABS somehow responds, it’s time to take the “brains” for diagnostics. You shouldn’t start moping right away: often simply reprogramming and resetting errors returns the system to normal. In any case, you already know why ABS works on a dry road, and what you have to fight with.

Toyota Corolla E150 (2010+). Jerking when starting off

Causes of jerking and vibration when starting off

In most cases, the cause of the breakdown is a malfunctioning clutch.

Correct diagnostics saves time and money, so do not rush to immediately begin repairing the clutch and replacing failed parts. First, use simple tips to eliminate malfunctions that may be associated with the fact that the car jerks when starting to move.

First, warm up the engine to operating temperature. Secondly, make sure there are no problems with the power and ignition system.

If after the work done the jerking when starting does not go away, then use the list of clutch malfunctions and methods for eliminating them below.

Deformation of the driven disk.

Replace the driven disk.

Jamming of the driven disk hub on the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox.

Clean the splines from dirt, remove minor damage with a file. If the splines are significantly worn or damaged, replace the transmission disc and/or input shaft. Before assembly, apply CV joint grease to the splines.

Significant settlement or breakage of torsional vibration damper springs, wear of windows for springs.

Replace the driven disk.

Seizures on the working surfaces of the flywheel or pressure plate.

Replace the flywheel or clutch housing and pressure plate assembly (clutch basket).

Loose fastening of the friction linings of the driven disc, severe wear or cracks on the linings.

Replace the driven disk.

Loss of elasticity of the spring plates of the driven disk.

Replace the driven disk.

Other faults

Driving style

You need to start with the obvious things. If you are an experienced driver, then you yourself understand perfectly well that the car can jerk when starting from a stop if the clutch grabs suddenly. That is, if you release the clutch pedal sharply, then it is quite obvious that the car should move jerkily. In this case there is no malfunction, and this situation is quite normal. All you need to do is change your riding style. At a minimum, you need to release the clutch smoothly and add more gas. It will come with time. In order for the clutch discs to engage on time, you need to “feel” for the moment of engagement in your car. To do this, you need to engage first gear and try to move away without pressing the gas pedal. This way you can easily feel the moment the clutch discs engage.

This cannot happen in cars with automatic transmissions, because there is no clutch pedal. In such cars, you just need to smoothly press the gas pedal and not “rip” the car from its place.

External and internal CV joints

The next reason why the car jerks when starting off may be the inner and outer CV joints. Internal CV joints transmit forces from the box to the car's axle shafts, and then to the wheels, which makes them quite important elements in the suspension system. Considering that these parts are systematically subjected to heavy loads, they may fail. The presence of a malfunction can be determined by the following signs: The CV joint turns when starting to move, there is play. Because of this, the car may jerk when starting from a stop. On the road, the CV joint may knock. Moreover, the road can be perfectly smooth. When turning, you can hear the crunch of the outer CV joints; when they wear out, they can also turn and create jerks when the car starts moving. Outer CV joints most often fail due to driving on bad and uneven roads. It follows that the first malfunction, due to which the car jerks when starting off, can be the CV joints. They are the first to be checked at a service station when a driver contacts a mechanic with a similar problem. Replacing these elements is quick, easy and most often does not cost a lot of money if we are talking about a domestic car and not a rare foreign car. Moreover, some car owners can replace the CV joints themselves; for this you will need a pit in the garage, a small set of tools and new CV joints, which are sold in almost any car store.

Transmission malfunction

The second possible reason is the checkpoint. But if the gearbox is not completely working, then you can also observe other manifestations besides jerks at the start: difficulty shifting any gear, noise from the unit, etc. If we are talking about a manual gearbox, then its repair can be inexpensive . It is difficult to replace any gear in such a mechanism, but it is possible, and this is something that specialists at service stations undertake. If the automatic transmission malfunctions, the situation becomes more complicated. Repairing it will be expensive. If the variator in an automatic transmission begins to jerk, then the service station most often offers its complete replacement, since repair in this case is impractical. It is difficult to diagnose a problem that causes the car to jerk when starting off on your own. This can only be revealed by service station specialists during a detailed inspection of the car and its components.

Steering

If the steering rack is faulty, it may well jerk when starting to move. Worn elements of this mechanism are usually not repaired - they are replaced with new ones. Also, the steering rack tips can dangle freely in their positions, which will cause jerks when accelerating sharply and when braking. In this case, the steering wheel wobbles. Damage to the steering column cannot be ruled out (usually this occurs in an accident), which can also create jerks when moving or starting.

If the steering mechanism is faulty, the driver should feel vibrations in the steering wheel, and not just jerks when starting off. And again, nothing can be advised to the driver regarding self-repair. Understanding the steering mechanism is no easier than understanding the gearbox system. So you have a direct route to the service station.

Engine

Unfortunately, if the car jerks when starting off, the engine can also cause a similar phenomenon. Moreover, its different systems may be to blame for this. A distinctive feature of engine malfunction is jumps in crankshaft revolutions, which is easy to notice on the tachometer. In this case, the engine may not listen well to the driver: it may not respond to pressing the gas pedal, it may make noise.

Diagnosing what exactly causes jerking is quite difficult. The problem may be in the fuel injection system. For example, if the injectors are clogged, then fuel will flow into one combustion chamber, but not into the other. There may also be disproportionate mixing of fuel with air, which will cause jerks not only when starting from a stop, but also when driving on a flat road.

Crankshaft and fuel

Wear on the crankshaft can also cause this type of problem. In this case, the movement of the car is accompanied not only by jerking, but also by knocking. Poor fuel quality can also cause jerking when starting. Some engines are sensitive to gasoline, so it is worth trying to fill with higher quality fuel at a different gas station and see if the same problem occurs when you change it. The problem may go away. Judging by the reviews of car owners on the forums, the malfunction really often lies in the low quality of gasoline, but this phenomenon is rare.

content .. 39 40 41 42 ..

Sensor check

However, everything wears out over time, and the speed sensor itself can be damaged. Replacing it is a serious matter, although the solution is not too expensive. Before you go for a new one, check how viable the old one is. For this:

• The front end is raised with a jack or lift so that the suspicious slope is suspended;
• A voltmeter is connected to the sensor. Already during docking he must give evidence. Typically the voltage output is about 0.7 V. If it is there, that’s good, but it’s not enough;
• The wheel is turned by hand. The data on the device should change, even if only slightly;
• An arrow that remains motionless (or numbers on the display that have not changed) indicates a failure of the DS.

Read the article
“How to check the speed sensor” for more details.