Manual transmission - removal and installation of Toyota Corolla since 2001

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Features of the Toyota Corolla automatic transmission

When choosing a Toyota Corolla car, the future car owner is faced with the choice of transmission. When leaning in favor of an automatic transmission, the driver can be guided by the following advantages of an automatic transmission:

However, the automatic transmission of the Toyota Corolla car also has some disadvantages:

In addition to the above, automatic transmissions have a shorter service life due to higher engine speeds and increased fuel consumption. Reviews indicate that automatic transmission is optimal for powerful engines with high traction. Toyota Corolla with automatic transmission pays off when traveling long distances at fairly high speeds.

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Toyota Corolla gearbox repair

The gearbox is one of the key units of the Toyota Corolla. It includes many high-precision elements and is one of the most technologically advanced components. Over the course of one year, when driving in urban conditions, several dozen gear changes, forced stops and subsequent accelerations occur. Heavy start-stop operation and increased loads cause damage, premature wear and incorrect operation.

The service areas of the Toyota Lyubertsy and Toyota Izmailovo dealer centers are equipped with modern specialized equipment for diagnosing all generations of gearboxes. Specialists determine the cause of the problem, perform a test drive in motion, disassemble, troubleshoot and complex overhaul of the Toyota Corolla gearbox with replacement of faulty components.

When is gearbox repair needed?

Depending on the year of manufacture, your car may be equipped with a continuously variable transmission, automatic and manual transmission. The operation of the gearbox is influenced by various factors - from excess/insufficient level or poor quality of transmission fluid and wear of the friction components of the gearbox to an unregulated engine and the condition of the control valves.

Diagnostics and repair of the Toyota Corolla transmission are required if:

  • The gear temporarily disappears when turning, shifts are “delayed” or there are jerks when performing them.
  • Vibrations, rattling, metallic grinding, and a characteristic howling sound appear as the speed increases.
  • Extraneous noise is heard when driving in only one gear, which disappears when shifting.
  • The car slips, stalls and stalls, accelerates sluggishly, or acceleration stops completely when reaching a certain speed.
  • There is no reverse speed, no forward movement, no noticeable push when changing gears.
  • The shiftmatic mode indicator does not turn on even when the lever is switched to position M.
  • The lever does not switch from position P when the brake pedal is pressed.

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Questions and answers

She begins to squeal, shifting gears is difficult. With a minimum amount of lubricants, the gears heat up. Long-term use will lead to their breakdown. This is a direct path to purchasing a new unit.

You can drive no more than 50 km with a dry manual transmission. The destruction of gear teeth is accompanied by knocking.

Such a motor can only be repaired in the early stages of a problem.

Source: avtoremont13.ru

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The need to initialize the box

It is not worthwhile to restore the box yourself; it is better to order professional repairs from a specialized car service center. Also, the workshop staff can offer such a service as initializing a 2008 Toyota Corolla box with a manual transmission. This process is a reset and zeroing of previous ECU settings. The procedure is relevant to carry out in case of malfunctions of the gearbox, if the Toyota gearbox was repaired, for example, its parts and switching mechanism sensors were replaced.

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Good afternoon everyone, dear friends. The problems that I discussed with you in neighboring topics forced me to remove the manual transmission. I will tell you about how the process went below, maybe it will be useful to someone.

Let me start with the fact that I removed the box without a pit and without a lift, which made the task a little more difficult, but I did it successfully.

Everything is described for my configuration, and in general there are possible options for different gearboxes and engines, but the principle is the same.

And so, what we need:

  • pit/lift/something on which the car will hang. It’s clear that the car needs to be not just jacked up, but its head hung out.
  • assistant. At the stage of direct removal/installation of the box.
  • a set of keys. I’ll say right away that it’s a good idea to have a long 19mm socket or a good socket wrench.
  • flat screwdriver.
  • container for the old transmission.
  • durable plastic bags. We will carefully wrap the CV joints in them so that they do not get dirty.
  • WD-40

Go.

Stage I. We remove the subframe.

1. We hang the car. I won’t describe the process, there’s a lot to do here. It turned out like this for me.

2. Remove the wheels. 3. Unscrew the ball joints where they fit on the lever.

4. Remove the plates that secure the subframe to the body.

5. Unscrew the steering rack. It is held on by studs; the bolt on top must be held with a 14 key. 6. Unscrew the subframe from the rear cushion. 8. We deal with the rods from the gearshift lever. It is necessary to disconnect the connection (bolt with cotter pin x 2) and remove their fastening from the gearbox housing. 7. Now remove the CV joint boot (wide side) and pull it off. Carefully remove the CV joint and immediately pull the bag over it to prevent dust and dirt from getting inside. Same thing on the other side.

8. Now you need to deal with the stabilizer. You can pull out its struts, you can unscrew it from the subframe at the bushings. I couldn’t cope with the racks, everything was very cleverly arranged there, there was no WD to unwind the SHAPE * MERGEFORMAT So I pulled it away from the bushings and it’s done.

9. There are 2 studs left on which the subframe hangs. This is where the long 19mm socket comes in handy. Jack up the subframe. We turn off the nuts (I only managed to unscrew them with a 2-meter amplifier SHAPE * MERGEFORMAT). We call an assistant and carefully remove the subframe. Ready.

10. Remove the longitudinal beam.

Stage II. Attachments.

1. Remove the battery 2. Remove the air filter (housing) 3. Remove the fastenings of the clutch line (tubes). There is no need to unscrew the fitting from the return cylinder, otherwise you will have to bleed the clutch (I removed it by mistake, I’ll write below how to bleed it just in case), just unscrew the cylinder from the box, and that’s it. 4. Remove the ground wire. 5. Remove the reverse sensor chip. 6. Open the turbine pipes.

Stage III. Checkpoint.

1. Drain the transmission oil. 2. Unscrew the bolts that hold the gearbox to the engine. At this moment, the gearbox has not yet been unscrewed from the upper cushion. We also unscrew the bolts that hold the starter. Next, we carefully move the gearbox away from the engine with a balloon (a little bit to make sure it goes) 3. Unscrew the gearbox from the pillow. After this, your friend should insure you and hold the box just in case. 4. Remove the box. She stands on the guides. So it comes off quite easily. The shaft from the differential (which goes to the right wheel) is also splined. I hooked it with a balloon a little from below, a little from above, evenly shorter. 5. We catch the checkpoint, carefully so as not to crush it. SHAPE * MERGEFORMAT Weighs quite decently, about 40 kg, I think. Ready.

Next we make the necessary belt. Along the way, you can easily replace balls, tie rods and ends, and much more.

Installation is the same, in reverse order.

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