Toyota Corolla robot does not respond to the gas pedal

N does not light up after initializing Toyota Corolla

I have a 2008 Corolla, mileage is 65,000 thousand, I changed the clutch a year ago, drove normally for about 10,000 thousand, now the car started to glitch (the car jerked, N started blinking at traffic lights after stopping).
I did the initialization, after which the letter N disappeared. Moreover, I installed a new actuator motor and brains 292 (they were 290). The scanner found no errors. Please advise what can be done? to mrPit: was the actuator removed?

to RNT13: Yes, I filmed it. The antenna turned exactly 90 degrees, drove 200 km and the car stopped again. After initialization, N disappeared again.

to mrPit: haven’t you looked to see if there is any play at the actuator rod?

to RNT13: How to check?

to mrPit: well, when you removed it, did you try to swing the rod left and right? there, if there is a lot of play, it can touch the wall and get blocked, which can cause the failure

to mrPit: and yet, many who did not have initialization were helped by the official service computer. Even when you installed the actuator in place, in which direction did you move it?

to RNT13: To the right all the way, and tightened the nut on the actuator rod a little. You won’t believe it - I live in the Far East, close to Japan (2500 km) and China across the river - 100m, there are no officials, there are only garage foremen!

to mrPit: yeah, it’s a disaster. Is it possible to put your own block on another crown? one of the options is to set up your own unit on a workhorse and install it on your car

to mrPit: then there must be errors anyway, perhaps there is a problem with the sensor, maybe somewhere else in the circuit it’s buggy, your frosts are severe

to RNT13: one case was that the sensor did not fit tightly, one contact did not press well, because of this it was buggy

to RNT13: I’ll try to remove the actuator again, leave it warm and at the same time change the sensor.

to RNT13: Hello! Please explain how and what to do with your ECU on the donor. I initialized the ECU using a paper clip on the donor. I didn’t attach it to the bolts, I just stuck the wires in. All signals passed according to the technical document. Having installed it on my Corolla, I waited 40 seconds, started it after 15 seconds, but nothing changed - N never appeared on the panel. Perhaps I did something wrong?

to RNT13: all antennae are even, sticking out at 90 degrees. Now, after initializing the transmission and clutch, there are no sounds (clicks) in the box.

The problem there is in the bushings of the shaft on which the antennae are attached

to Sasha82: are there any errors?

You can ignore SRS. I'd like to figure out what's wrong with the box

to Sasha82: Why did you cut it off after 95? is there 102?

I counted 17, 18, 21, 26, 35, 37, 41, 46, 48, 51, 56, 58 and 95 - this is a record, I have never seen anything like it. In my memory there were a maximum of 5

17 and 18 are an open circuit and a short circuit of the power relay. most likely some kind of sensor

21 - malfunction in the clutch drive circuit, hence 35 (clutch drive error) - interconnected

26 - malfunction of the clutch position sensor

37, 56, 58 - error and malfunction of the selector rocker mechanism control

41 and 46, 48 are also associated with a malfunction in the transmission drive circuit

95 fault in the brake switch circuit

this is how it turns out, the sensor on the clutch actuator and the sensor on the gear selection and shift mechanism - you need to look, and you need to check the brake pedal, there’s something wrong with the frog, as I understand it

Toyota Corolla box robot

Owners of Toyota Corolla 2008 robot cars are beginning to complain about interruptions in the operation of the robotic gearbox. Operation ceases to be comfortable due to the fact that the gear may not engage, the speed may slip, or the gearbox may be thrown into neutral at random.

What is the problem with the robot box on the 2007 and 2008 Corolla? The essence of each problem should be described in order.

The transmission does not start

The most common malfunction when operating a 2007, 2008 Toyota Corolla is that the manual transmission does not engage gears. The reasons for such a breakdown may be the following factors:

Long-term use of the car in winter. The sensor responsible for gear shifting “freezes”, because of this, when you try to change gear, the box is knocked into neutral.

Using a car with a manual transmission in winter

As mentioned earlier, the main reason for the unstable operation of manual transmissions is low and high temperatures. And if in the summer everything is clear, in order to ensure normal functioning it is necessary to ensure stable cooling of all manual transmission systems, then in the winter a number of recommendations must be followed.

Before you drive your car, you need to warm it up (warm-up time depends on the thermometer reading: the lower the outside temperature, the longer it takes to warm up the car).

You should try not to operate the car for a long time at excessively low temperatures (for example, if it is -30 outside).

The vehicle should be stored in a well-heated room (at a temperature of 5 to 15 degrees).

Thanks to the above recommendations, you can ensure more stable operation of the box in winter.

What causes the Corolla's manual transmission to go into neutral?

Operation of a robotic gearbox implies the presence of a malfunction such as engaging neutral gear. Often on a Corolla robot this happens as follows: the car is quite well warmed up, moves along the highway smoothly and without any obvious deviations, the check light suddenly lights up, neutral is switched on, and the car loses speed until it comes to a complete stop.

In order to fix the problem, you need to turn off the engine, wait a certain time and turn it on again. However, this move does not completely eliminate the problem.

If the manual transmission works in this way, then you should immediately contact the service station.

Often, failure occurs due to wear of a pair of release bearings, as well as the guide. If you replace these components, then diagnostics will not be required, and the replacement process can be carried out at home.

How to operate manual transmission correctly?

In order for the operation of an automated gearbox to be comfortable and reliable for as long as possible, it is necessary to follow a number of rules. Briefly about how to use manual transmission correctly:

The robot does not tolerate sudden pressure on the gas pedal. The best option is when the driver chooses a calm driving mode. If you need to accelerate, it is also best to press smoothly. And, most importantly, remember a simple rule: PPTA - acceleration in manual mode, braking in automatic mode.
One of the features of the robot is that during operation there are shocks when changing gears. In order to eliminate this factor, you can reduce the speed of the power unit.
Thanks to the manual mode, you can easily get out of a snowdrift using the “swing” method. However, it is not at all recommended to skid on a robot, since the service life of the manual transmission is significantly reduced.
During vehicle maintenance, it is necessary to initialize the manual transmission, as well as complete diagnostics. This is necessary in order to identify any problems at the stage of their occurrence.

Results

A robotic gearbox is a kind of synthesis of an automatic and manual gearbox. From the mechanics the system received practicality and reliability, from the automatic - comfort during operation. Such a system as a whole is distinguished by its reliability and high technology. But she also has glitches. They are mainly associated with wear of parts, for example, when the manual transmission is randomly thrown into neutral. Or, due to a broken actuator, one or another gear does not start.

In order for the robot to function smoothly on the Toyota Corolla, it is necessary to carry out regular maintenance, during which the robotic gearbox on the Toyota Corolla will be subject to thorough diagnostics. It is also necessary to follow the rules for using the robot box for Toyota Corolla. If you follow the above recommendations and tips, you can avoid serious damage to the Toyota Corolla robot.

Mechanical failures of the gas pedal

A separate category of breakdowns is when, when you press the pedal, your foot feels a very specific dip until it clicks, after which the part does not return to its original position, and the car, paradoxically, does not react to this (either sharply or smoothly, repeatedly pressing the pedal) . The pedal fails mechanically for only one reason - the problem is a burst seal (rubber or plastic), or the cable sheath stops on the gas drive. Sometimes the cable itself breaks, but mostly you have to change the stops and seals. In winter, failure is caused by freezing of condensate in the cable sheath.

Eliminating such pedal failures is quite possible to do yourself if you know exactly the appearance, position and number of the broken part. The most difficult thing is to change a broken throttle cable, so if you are not confident in your abilities, or simply do not want to waste time, it is better to involve specialists. Contact a trusted car service center.

Corolla 2007, robot

"Adjusting Clutch Position Without Using a Handheld Diagnostic Tool."

1. Prepare the car (switch the gear lever to the “N” position, turn off the ignition, put the handbrake on.)

2. We bridge the contacts in the diagnostic connector DLC3. No. 4 (he's fourth from the left in the top row) and No. 13 (he's fifth from the left in the bottom row).

3. Turn on the ignition with the brake pedal released (do not start).

4. Within 3 seconds, press the brake pedal 7 times.

5. Next, the buzzer will emit 2 beeps at intervals of 0.25 seconds.

6. Press the brake pedal.

7. While holding the brake pressed, move the gear shift lever in the following sequence:

N – E – M – plus – M – plus – M – plus – M – plus – M – E – N

(turn on the “plus” lever 4 times. In this case, between turning on the “plus” there is no need to return back to the “E” and “Neutral” modes. We switch to “E” and “neutral” only after the last, 4th turn on the “plus” ).

8. Release the brake pedal.

9. Press the brake pedal again.

10. The buzzer will emit a series of beeps at 0.5 second intervals.

(If the interval between signals is 1 second or there are no signals, then turn off the ignition, wait 15 seconds, pull out the jumper and return to point A.).

11. Press the brake at least 3 times within 2 seconds.

12. The buzzer will emit 2 beeps with an interval of 0.25 seconds.

12. Press the brake again and, while holding the brake pedal depressed, shift the gear lever to the “Minus” position.

13. Release the brake.

14. Turn off the ignition and wait at least 10 seconds.

15. Disconnect the contacts of the diagnostic connector DLC3

“Initializing (clutch actuator and clutch travel sensor) without using a handheld diagnostic tool.”

A. Prepare the car (switch the gear lever to the “N” position, turn off the ignition)

B. We bridge the contacts in the DLC3 diagnostic connector No. 4 (it is fourth from the left in the top row) and No. 13 (it is fifth from the left in the bottom row).

B. We wait at least 10 seconds. (this is also a difference from the previous scheme).

D. Turn on the ignition (do not start).

D. Within 3 seconds, press the brake pedal 7 times.

E. The buzzer will emit 2 beeps at 0.25 second intervals.

G. Press the brake pedal and hold...

Z. With the brake pressed, move the gear lever in the following sequence:

N – E – M – plus – minus – plus – minus – M – E – N

(from the “neutral” position to “plus - minus - plus - minus”, and then again to “neutral”)

I. Release the brake

K. Press the brake again

L. The buzzer will emit 3 cycles of signals, 2 signals in a cycle with an interval of 0.5 seconds. (simply speaking, 6 signals will sound, first the first 2, then after a short pause another 2, and then the last 2).

(If there are no signals or signals are emitted at intervals of 1 second (and not 0.5 seconds), then turn off the ignition, wait at least 10 seconds, turn off the ignition and return to step A.)

M. Within 2 seconds. press the brake 3 times.

N. The buzzer will emit 2 beeps at 0.25 second intervals.

A. Turn off the ignition and wait at least 10 seconds.

P. Initialization completed.

R. Disconnect the jumper contacts in DLC3.

"Setup without using a handheld diagnostic tool"

There is no need to bridge the contacts anymore.

A. Prepare the car (switch the gear lever to the “N” position, turn off the ignition.)

B. Turn on the ignition

B. Wait at least 40 seconds.

D. Turn off the ignition

D. Wait at least 15 seconds.

E. Turn on the ignition

G. Start the engine, ensuring the following conditions: — gear lever position — “N” — Brake pedal pressed

ATTENTION: When the engine starts, the gear shift indicator “N” (on the display) will flash. Do not turn off the engine until the “N” indicator stops flashing.

As soon as the “N” indicator starts to light continuously (stops flashing), the setup is complete

Toyota Corolla robot does not respond to the gas pedal

Sell Nooo! Because I like her very much. A friend only changed the clutch. Or a bunch with a basket, an actuator and what seems to be some kind of block.

Added after 2 minutes 59 seconds:

Valera303, Made an appointment with the dealers in Melnikaite for tomorrow

You can’t praise yourself, no one will praise your price tag for replacing the clutch and actuator: 70 thousand

Added after 12 minutes 53 seconds:

In Elite-KAR the same works 36550.

Sameri, Personal experience. or from the words of friends, colleagues.

Added after 6 minutes 28 seconds:

From personal experience! I arrived at Elt-Car, ordered a clutch, paid for the actuator 27550, 3 days passed and the spare parts arrived! I came for a replacement and the most interesting thing (for which many thanks to the service manager Denis) All work will be done absolutely free. Including changing the gas pedal (FREE OF CHARGE) And the money paid was said to be returned! ELITE CAR

pavlentiy, is the car under warranty? I don’t quite understand: first they took the money and then promised to return it? The gas pedal is replaced free of charge for those cars that are included in the service campaign (checked by VIN).

I also had it adjusted several times, the electronic clutch control unit was changed twice, and once the entire clutch assembly was changed (almost half of the engine was dismantled; I was present during this) with a mileage of 40 thousand km. under warranty (free of charge). At the same time, they clarified that if the warranty had expired, it would have cost me about 50 thousand (spare parts + labor).

2007 the car cannot be under warranty))) My robot itself has a mileage of 98,000 km. the first time they changed the clutch under warranty for 40,000 mileage FREE OF CHARGE, then 3 years of warranty expired, and 1 year after the end of that same warranty, a similar situation again ((On the Toyota website there was information about the goodwill policy (that’s what they called it) the Japanese recognized the jamb designs and replace the clutch assembly for FREE from official dealers. In short, they changed everything for me again)) and I like the car

Added after 6 minutes 6 seconds:

By the way, when the red gear lights up, this is overheating of the clutch, which happens in traffic jams, especially on bridges when ascending, with significant wear of the clutch disc or incorrect connection of the clutch

DMALRO, it’s great that even after the warranty expires they replace it for free. DMALRO, I also liked my car with a robot. I didn’t know such problems as twitching and others. I agree about the red gear, that’s how it is.

PS I was still afraid that after 40-60 thousand km. will die again, for this reason I exchanged the car for exactly the same one, but with an automatic transmission.

I drive: Ford Focus

Prepare 30-35 thousand! Replacing the clutch and actuator! must get to Tyumen! When I got such a miracle at a crossroads, I drove for two more weeks.

Added after 2 minutes 12 seconds:

Just ask if they had a “goodwill policy” campaign; some of the dryers were eligible for free replacement.

Has anyone tried to go through the goodwill policy?

Added after 36 seconds:

They say they can replace it for free.

MYTO, I can’t say anything bad about FF2, I drove 2 units (1st 2 liters, 2nd 1.6), only gasoline in the tank, the car has no problems. Yes, it eats, the 2-liter Duck was very similar to the Kruzak in terms of consumption, for 1.6 I won’t say anything bad at all. . But the fact is that in terms of reliability, I liked the FF2 more than the new Corolla (not to be confused with the Corollas of 2001-2006). But a robot on a Corolla is just a song. . Why Toyota didn’t apologize to every buyer for them and didn’t replace everything with automatic machines, I don’t understand. . Personally, after that I reconsidered my attitude towards the brand and, of the worthy ones, I left only Kruzaks on my list, and then preferably 100 or 120.

Added after 10 minutes 6 seconds:

Babay, they had this promotion for a very long time (3-4 years ago), and only if you religiously followed their policy of “bring a horse to the service every 10 thousand”! In addition, I believe your warranty has expired (since the mileage is 100 thousand due to 3 years of operation). So, unfortunately, you won’t have to count on Toyota’s free gift. My advice is to insure the car under CASCO and burn it (so that you won’t be ashamed before buying a new one, to protect the person who stumbles from illness), get the money and buy a normal car!

Cleaning the throttle valve

First of all, to clean the part you need to buy washing liquid for the carburetor. It costs about 200–300 rubles per can, so you don’t need to worry about the cost of the issue. In addition, you will need a dry cloth that should not leave any lint. So how do you clean your throttle body? Everything is very simple.

You need to spray the purchased liquid onto the part and gently wipe it with a rag. It is worth repeating the procedure several times until the dirt and deposits are completely removed.

Many motorists ask the question: “We clean the intake manifold, but engine performance does not improve. What are we doing wrong? The fact is that this part does not need to be touched at all. Of course, extra flushing will not cause harm, but there is no need to waste time on it. The deposits formed in the collector are insignificant, so they do not interfere in any way.

How often should you clean your throttle body? It is impossible to answer this question with an exact number, since it is recommended to carry out this procedure every time the engine oil is changed. Some people do this twice a year, and others once every two years. After how long the lubricant is changed, the same time it needs to be changed.

“N” is flashing on the Toyota Corolla dashboard, what does it mean?

Hello everyone, I wanted to share some experience in this matter regarding the blinking of the nitral fuel N symbol on the dashboard of a Toyota Corolla with a robot. I had experience with this problem and I want to write what mistakes I made so that you don’t repeat them.

So, let's go. I have a Corolla 2008 E15, 1.6, robot gearbox. The mileage at the time of the breakdown was 135,000. The symptoms are like this. From the beginning, sometimes the gears would go into neutral while driving, but the check would not light up. When this happened the first time, I thought maybe something was wrong, I stopped, turned off the car, smoked, started it and drove on. And yes, at the moment of a breakdown, the red gear on the dashboard lights up and N flashes. I drove without problems, then a week later the story repeated itself. In general, I drove like this for a month, I still couldn’t sign up for the service, then one thing or another.

As a result, one day I stood at an intersection, and I live in St. Petersburg, pushed the car to the side of the road, called a tow truck and came to the officials. They said that it was the clutch actuator and it needed to be changed, and at the same time the clutch, since I killed it while I was driving with this problem. The issue price was indicated as 90,000 rubles.

Of course, I didn’t do it with them because it’s expensive. As a result, I went to a service center that repairs actuators. They honestly told me that after the repair, the floor comes off in a year, the edge comes off in a year, and then it breaks again. But I couldn’t quickly find a new actuator for adequate money, I need the car every day, and I couldn’t wait for it to be delivered, etc., plus it wasn’t cheap, 47,000 rubles.

So I paid 32,000 rubles for replacing the clutch and repairing the actuator. As a result, I drove for exactly a year. The problem is back. I immediately parked the car and started looking for the part. I found a service where the actuator with replacement costs only 32,000 rubles. I went to them, 30 minutes, and that’s it. No problems.

Let me summarize the errors:

1) If you encounter this problem, immediately put the car at rest so as not to burn the clutch. The clutch itself costs a penny, but replacing it is very expensive and takes a long time.

2) Never repair the actuator, do not read stories about how it can be upgraded and it will run forever - it won’t, only a unit replacement.

3) Carefully look for services and the actuator itself, it is expensive, but you can find it at an adequate price.

In general, the clutch actuator itself runs 120,000 km according to regulations, that is, it is an expensive consumable, so to speak. But this is the worst thing that happens to the queen; nothing else really breaks there. Typically, the actuator has to be replaced once during the life of the vehicle.

That's all, I hope my experience will be useful to someone. Write comments and subscribe to
my channel HERE!

Problem with the robot on the Corolla, and repair instructions.

In order not to create more topics, I’ll ask the question here. Where can they diagnose and repair a 2008 MMT Corolla? Precisely problems with MMT. Officials are not interested, because... they change the whole assembly.

The other day I was driving calmly, suddenly the gearbox gear lights up, the car stops moving and the number 5 lights up on the speed indicator. I try to play with the lever, and it just hangs at 5. I turned it off, waited a couple of minutes and still couldn’t start the car, because... It starts only in position N. Fortunately, it stalled not far from the house, so I dragged it into the yard. Today I tried to force the transmission to position N using a screwdriver by unscrewing the plug on the gearbox. Doesn't give in. Moreover, after reading the damn Internet, I did a reset, now on the speed screen 5 went out, but N did not light up. Before this, no noise, errors or problems with the gearbox were observed.

with a 99 percent probability of replacing the clutch with the actuator

If you have anything, write me a private message.

Professional diagnostics of foreign cars. Repair of vehicle protection and immobilization systems. Restoring SRS AIRBAG systems after collisions. Mileage adjustment.

After the replacement, I began to train the box accordingly, and here again adaptations do not take place. The symptoms are the same: neutral blinks and does not respond to the gas pedal.

Why doesn't the robotic gearbox adapt in Toyota Corolla after replacing the clutch?

Then, on the advice of my colleague Sergei from the city of Grodno, I once again paid attention to the electric motor of the clutch actuator. After the replacement the situation did not change. Then, out of despair, I began to check everything else: Deviations. As a result of the inspection, it was revealed that one electric motor had a high induction current and was running out of brushes, so it was replaced with a new one.

The robot does not adapt to Toyota Corolla. Depending on the model of the device, automatic or semi-automatic operation of the robot is possible, but each model is equipped with a manual speed switching mode.

Procedure for adapting the device: Turn off the ignition and put the car on the handbrake. Connect the contacts in the diagnostic connector DLC3.

Do-it-yourself adaptation of the Toyota Corolla robot

Turn on the ignition. Press the brake and hold it in this position for approximately 3 seconds. After 2 beeps, depress the brake pedal again and, holding it in this position, move the robot’s speed lever in this order: Essentially, this procedure is the setting of key parameters for the interaction of the ECU and the robot does not adapt to the Toyota Corolla.

Its need arises after almost every serious failure or when any element of the transmission system fails.

It doesn’t matter at all whether the clutch part, gearbox, ECU, electric drive or even any sensor will be replaced - initialization is mandatory! At the same time, you should not resort to this kind of adjustment over trifles.

There must be a clearly defined malfunction, otherwise initialization can only cause harm. Of course, for a moment it may seem that the procedure has given a positive result, but this effect does not last long.

Inappropriate adjustment of parameters significantly reduces the resource of each MMT element.

Many drivers make the mistake of thinking this way: We press the brake pedal for about three seconds. We are waiting for two beeps from the buzzers. We press the brake pedal.

Leave the brake pressed and move the gear shift lever in the following order: Release the brake pedal. We wait until the buzzer emits a series of beeps at intervals of 0.5 seconds. Press the brake at least 3 times within 2 seconds.

The buzzer will emit 2 beeps at 0.25 second intervals. Let's release the brake. Turn off the ignition and wait at least 10 seconds.

Disconnect the contacts of the diagnostic connector DLC3. Do not be alarmed if the N gear shift indicator on the display starts flashing when you start the engine.

The engine can be turned off after the indicator stops flashing. As soon as N stops flashing, the robot setup is completed.

This is a mechanical transmission, to which are added drives controlled by electric motors.

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Toyota Corolla E150 (2010+). Troubleshooting throttle position sensor

What does the throttle position sensor do?

A part such as a throttle position sensor (TPS) is designed to transmit information to the electronic engine control unit about the exact state of the bypass valve at a given moment in time. Essentially, it is a combination of a fixed and variable resistor, and its maximum total resistance is approximately 8 ohms. The TPS has three contacts in its design, two of them are supplied with voltage (usually its value is about 5 V), and the third is a signal and is connected to the corresponding controller

Symptoms of a malfunctioning throttle position sensor

The throttle position sensor in the fuel system plays a “smoothing” role, and therefore, if it is working properly, then the car drives without jerking, smoothly, and demonstrates “responsiveness” when you press the gas pedal. If the TPS is faulty, then this can be determined by the following signs:

-The engine starts to start poorly; -Fuel consumption increases significantly; -The car drives jerkily; -The number of engine revolutions at idle increases significantly; -When the car accelerates, it happens with some delay; - “Popping” sounds are heard from the intake manifold; -The engine stalls at idle; -The Check Engine light either stays on constantly or lights up intermittently. If at least one of the above symptoms appears, then it is likely that the TPS is faulty. As practice shows, in most cases, the breakdown of this part is associated with its natural wear and tear. The fact is that the variable resistor present in the design of the throttle position sensor has a sprayed base layer, which the metal contact moving over it wears out over time. Accordingly, the TPS begins to produce incorrect data.

Signs of a bad throttle valve

The throttle assembly regulates the air supply to the intake manifold, which subsequently creates an air-fuel mixture with parameters that are optimal for the engines. Accordingly, if the throttle valve is faulty, the technology for creating this mixture changes, which negatively affects the behavior of the car. Specifically, signs of a bad throttle position include:

- problematic engine starting, especially “cold”, that is, on an unheated engine, as well as its unstable operation; - the engine speed value constantly fluctuates, and in a variety of modes - at idle, under load, in the average range of values; -loss of dynamic characteristics of the car, poor acceleration, loss of power when driving uphill and/or with a load; - “dips” when pressing the accelerator pedal, periodic losses of power; -increased fuel consumption; - a “garland” on the dashboard, that is, the Check Engine indicator light comes on and then goes out, and this repeats periodically; - the engine suddenly stalls, after restarting it works normally, but the situation soon repeats; - frequent occurrence of engine detonation; -a specific gasoline smell appears in the exhaust system, associated with incomplete combustion of fuel; - in some cases, self-ignition of the air-fuel mixture occurs; - in the intake manifold and/or in the muffler, soft popping noises are sometimes heard.

Causes of throttle valve malfunction

There are a number of typical reasons that lead to malfunctions of the throttle assembly and the problems described above. Let us list in order what malfunctions of the throttle valve can occur.

Idle speed control

The idle air control valve (or IAC for short) is designed to supply air to the intake manifold of the engine when it is idling, that is, when the throttle valve is closed. If the regulator fails partially or completely, the engine will experience unstable operation at idle until it stops completely. Since it and the throttle assembly work in tandem.

Throttle sensor malfunctions

Another common cause of throttle failure is problems with the throttle position sensor (TPS). The function of the sensor is to fix the position of the throttle valve in its seat and transmit the corresponding information to the ECU. The control unit, in turn, selects a certain operating mode, the amount of supplied air, fuel and adjusts the ignition timing. If the throttle position sensor malfunctions, this unit transmits incorrect information to the computer or does not transmit it at all. Accordingly, the electronic unit, based on incorrect information, selects incorrect engine operating modes or switches it to operation in emergency mode. Typically, when a sensor fails, the Check Engine light on the dashboard lights up.

Throttle Actuator

There are two types of throttle valve actuator - mechanical (using a cable) and electronic (based on information from a sensor). A mechanical drive was installed on cars of older models, and is now becoming less common. Its operation is based on the use of a steel cable connecting the accelerator pedal and the lever on the throttle rotation axis. The cable can stretch or break, although this is quite rare.

Electronic throttle control is widely used in modern cars. Commands for the throttle position are received by the electronic control unit based on information received from the damper actuator sensor and the throttle sensor. If one or another sensor fails, the control unit is forced into emergency mode. In this case, the damper drive is turned off, an error is generated in the ECU memory, and the Check Engine warning lamp lights up on the dashboard. The problems described above arise in the behavior of the machine:

- the car reacts poorly to pressing the accelerator pedal (or does not react at all); - engine speed does not rise above 1500 rpm; - the dynamic characteristics of the machine are reduced; -unstable idle speed, up to the complete stop of the engine. In rare cases, the damper drive motor fails. In this case, the damper is located in one position, which fixes the control unit, putting the machine in emergency mode.

System depressurization

Often the cause of unstable operation of a car engine is depressurization in the intake tract. In particular, air can be sucked in in the following places: - the place where the damper is pressed against the body, as well as its axis; - cold start jet; - connecting corrugated tube behind the throttle position sensor; -joint (inlet) of the crankcase gas cleaner pipe and corrugation; - injector seals; - conclusions for gasoline fumes; - vacuum brake booster pipe; -throttle body seals.

Air leaks lead to incorrect formation of the air-fuel mixture and errors in the operation of the intake tract. In addition, the air leaking in this way is not cleaned in the air filter, so it may contain a lot of dust or other harmful small elements.

Damper contaminated

The throttle body in a car engine has a direct connection with the crankcase ventilation system. For this reason, tar and oil deposits and other debris accumulate on its body and axle over time. Typical signs of throttle valve contamination occur. This is reflected in the fact that the valve does not move smoothly; it often sticks and jams. As a result, the engine is unstable and corresponding errors are generated in the electronic control unit.

To get rid of such troubles, you need to regularly check the condition of the throttle valve, and if necessary, clean it with special means, for example, carburetor cleaners or their equivalents.

The damper adaptation has failed

In rare cases, throttle adaptation may be reset. This may also lead to the above problems. The reasons for the failed adaptation may be: - disconnection and further connection of the battery in the car; - dismantling (disconnection) and subsequent installation (connection) of the electronic control unit; - the throttle valve has been removed, for example, for cleaning; -the accelerator pedal has been removed and reinstalled. Also, the cause of a failed adaptation may be moisture getting into the chip, a break or damage to the signal and/or power wire. You need to understand that there is an electronic potentiometer inside the throttle valve. Inside it there are tracks coated with graphite. Over time, during the operation of the unit, they wear out and can wear out to such an extent that they will not transmit correct information about the position of the damper.

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Dips when pressing the gas

even a dirty air filter can have this effect.

No. 5 SantaC

Lapland city
Your car?: Santa Fe

Yes, the fuel system definitely needs to be cleaned. Completely, with all filters and everything. Because that's not the point. I'm willing to bet that your consumption could also increase. This is usually what happens. In general, you’re unlikely to be able to do it yourself, so it’s better to ask a mechanic.

No. 6 Flier

Your car?: Toyota Camry

This is definitely not a matter of refueling.

Check the entire fuel supply system, clean all the filters, look at the pedal itself, and of course rummage through the engine, there are quite a few options here.

No. 7 Mila

City of Rostov
Your car?: Corolla

Could there be a problem with the pedals? Maybe the gas pedal just failed, as they wrote in the next topic. That is, you do not reach the maximum point, accordingly, fuel injection occurs worse and you drive slower. Well, that's just a guess.

No. 8 Flier

Your car?: Toyota Camry

That is, perhaps the pedal is not fully functioning?

In this case, what test options can you recommend?

I didn’t have this happen, but a friend called me yesterday and asked what could be the reason?

No. 9 Sanyok

Your car?: Lexus IFS

Perhaps the pedal itself has come off, but this is unlikely, perhaps the problem is in the hose. In order to answer so confidently, you need to check it in the service department, because there may be more than one reason, after what did this happen?

No. 10 Lina

Donetsk city
Your car?: Toyota

To check the pedal, you can put the gas in neutral. I didn’t do it myself, but I saw and heard how my brother and father did it. True, they didn’t test the pedal, but I think the option is suitable for the pedal. Try it - it's safe.

No. 11 Tolyn

Your car?: Lexus

On an automatic, when the pedal goes down, it’s not that it’s dangerous to drive, but it’s generally impossible. You can imagine what will happen if it goes down and we start automatically picking up speed, it’s not a fact that the handbrake will save you.

No. 12 Besenok

Moscow city
Your car?: Lexus IS

Yes, nothing bad will happen if you turn on neutral or turn off the engine in time. But the problem needs to be solved, because pedals are no joke. Both with the gas pedal and the brake pedal. It definitely needs to be changed before something bad happens.

No. 13 Sergey Gasparov

Cleaning the fuel system is a last resort option. Perhaps you fill up with different gasoline, 92 and 95, and most likely at different gas stations. You need to choose the brand of gas station you will use to refuel in the future. And it’s worth refueling with just one brand, either 92 or 95. After you’ve driven more than 500 km, your ignition will automatically adjust to your gasoline and everything will be fine!

No. 14 Ruslan_Dzhakarov

Moscow city

No. 15 Nikolai

Your car?: Camry

It is necessary to clean the entire fuel system if such failures appear when you press the gas. First of all, this is what influences. I also advise you to check the compression of the engine, otherwise you never know.

No. 16 German_Khlevnov

In the seventh year of operation, the same situation befell me. As my daughter put it: “It’s like a truck was hitched to the back!” The guys write correctly (see above) - fuel system. I started looking for the cause on my own, with candles. Then “iridium” ones came into fashion. As a result, after the first frost, I went to the service station with the same fault. There, over the course of 2 days, they painstakingly looked for the cause of the periodic power failure along the “chain”. As a result, I replaced the fuel pump. It’s been two years since I forgot “about the truck tied to the back”))))

Dips at idle

If the revolutions drop not when you press the gas pedal, but on their own - in the interval between starting the engine and completely warming up, you will need a good scanner to fully diagnose the cause. A problem that appears only on a cold or only on a hot engine may simply be a failure of electronic components. Among the sensors, the “champions” in terms of failures were: “brains” (control electronics unit), throttle position sensor, idle air control, intake air pressure and temperature sensors, flow meter.

Errors in the ECU are most often the cause of the gas pedal failing

Not all inconsistencies in indicators, loss of sensor signals, or open circuits cause errors on the instrument panel. Most pass without a trace, and only an experienced diagnostician will see them in the logs.

You can independently check for external air leaks, replace the air and fuel filters, change spark plugs, high-voltage wires, and coils. Measure compression in all cylinders. Inspect the engine head for oil leaks from under the crankcase ventilation valve - it may be clogged and will need to be washed or replaced. If you are not sure about the cleanliness of the tank and the quality of the fuel, drain it completely by washing the tank and the fuel pump sump.

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