Review of Toyota Caldina 2.0i (2002)

Detailed characteristics of Toyota Caldina

in numbers, among the most important ones that people most often pay attention to are the
price
in rubles at the time of appearance in car dealerships and
consumption
in various conditions: in the city, on the highway or mixed, as well as
the total and curb weight
.
Also important are the dimensions
and
volume of the trunk , ground clearance maximum speed, acceleration to 100 km
in seconds or the time spent covering 402 meters.
Gearbox
automatic, manual;
drive
, front or all-wheel drive, or maybe even switchable

Main indicators of Toyota Caldina 1997 station wagon characteristics of Toyota Caldina

With such an engine capacity of 1762 cubic meters, a decent number of horses under the hood is guaranteed, although the consumption will not be very high.

A drive that requires special driving skills and getting used to in the case of driving with a different type of drive. For such a low price, cars are considered budget

since you just get a car to drive and nothing more, but in some cases this is the only purpose without any beauty. You don't need more to get around the city. Perhaps the slogan for such a vehicle is not “The miser pays twice.”

There are other names or misspellings:

Looking at

A profiled front bumper, a wide intercooler air intake on the hood, plastic door sills and spoilers distinguish the GT-T modification from the regular Toyota Caldina and give it a sporty look.

The plastic trim on the front bumper “a la kenguryatnik” looks peculiar. There is no practical use for it (except that you can hang up a license plate), but it looks nice.

By the way, despite the sporty nature of the car and the presence of additional body kit (sills), Caldina has high ground clearance (about 16 cm).


The head optics are similar to those installed on the European version of the model - Toyota Avensis. If desired, you can install headlights with the correct distribution of the light beam.

There are two spoilers on the rear door. And if the top one is located in the usual place, then the second one seems to support the glass (its task is to cut off dust and dirt rising from the road).

Toyota Caldina

Toyota Caldina

Story

The Caldina model replaced the Carina Surf station wagon, which was produced in the seventh generation. The “Successor” was intended only for the Japanese market, but was illegally imported into the markets of many countries, including Russia. The first generation Caldina was produced in two versions - passenger and cargo, and was considered a body modification of the Corona model. This car was first shown in 1992.

It was based on the T19x (190) all-wheel drive platform and was equipped with a wide range of gasoline and diesel engines. The base engine for the first generation Caldina was a 1.5 liter petrol unit. In addition, the car was equipped with 1.8 and 2.0 liter engines, which had two modifications. There were three diesel engines - a 2.0 liter naturally aspirated and a turbocharged one, as well as a 2.2 liter unit. The engines were coupled with a 5-speed manual or 4-speed automatic.

The second generation Caldina rolled off the assembly line in 1997, and was now considered the “home” version of the Toyota Avensis model.

The car received a new platform T21x (210), on which Toyota Allion and Toyota Premio were also built. The model was no longer produced in a cargo version, but retained the all-wheel drive system. The car acquired more modern exterior features, its body became more streamlined.

In 2000, Caldina underwent restyling - new bumpers, front and rear optics appeared, and for turbocharged versions - an additional air intake on the hood.

The car was equipped with three 2.0 liter gasoline engines (two naturally aspirated and one new, turbocharged), and the base one was a 1.8 liter unit. There were two diesel engines - 2.0 and 2.2 liter, turbocharged.

The third and last generation of Toyota Caldina was released in 2002. This generation was produced for five years. In 2005, the model underwent restyling. And the last copy rolled off the assembly line of the plant in Tsutsumi (Japan) in 2007.

Exterior

The final generation of the car has finally become a completely independent model, and not a version of one of the brand’s cars. The car was built on the new T24x (241) platform with a wheelbase of 2700 mm, which is 110 mm longer than the previous generation. The body length was 4510 mm, width - 1740 mm, and height - 1450 mm.

In addition to the changed dimensions, the car acquired a different exterior design. If in previous generations, instead of the “Toyota” nameplate, the name of the model “Caldina” was on the radiator grille, then the third generation got its own badge - an inverted triangle with a red “core”. The car received new triangular headlights with xenon optics, a new radiator grille with a wide rib located in a horizontal plane. The model has a new bumper with a wide central air intake and round side sections for fog lights. Caldina acquired a new hood with two side relief lines that were stylistically combined with the edges of the radiator grille.

The car received a new door shape with handles that open to the side. The shape of the luggage compartment window has also changed: following the “triangular” motif of the exterior design, it has three corners, rather than four, like the previous version.

At the stern, the rear lights stand out, which are pointed triangles, “piercing” on both sides into the tailgate. The door itself has a spoiler with an additional brake light built into it. The vehicle's belonging to the Toyota brand is indicated by the company nameplate placed on the door.

Interior

The spacious interior of Caldina-III can accommodate four adult passengers and a child. The car received an original three-arch instrument panel with a large speedometer, tachometer and fuel level and engine oil temperature sensors combined into one unit. The steering wheel is three-spoke, with a grippy, medium-thick rim.

The center console is V-shaped, stands out from the dashboard like a shield, and is trimmed with different colored plastic for different trim levels. The gear selector area, located on the tunnel, is also made in the same triangular style, where there is also a niche for small things.

The comfort of the front passenger is facilitated by the high-mounted glove box lid - the knees do not rest against it. The front seats have lateral support, and the rear sofa is stylistically divided into two seats.

Specifications

Three gasoline engines were installed under the hood of various versions of Caldina-III.
The base unit was a 1.8 liter unit with a capacity of 132 horsepower. The model was also equipped with an upgraded 2.0 liter turbocharged engine with a capacity of 260 horsepower and a completely new 2.0 liter engine with a direct injection system D-4 with a capacity of 155 horsepower. The engines were coupled with a 4-speed Super ECT automatic transmission. The car's drive is front-wheel drive or all-wheel drive. There was also a special version of Caldina with permanent all-wheel drive. More details

Let's take a seat


The interior, in contrast to the “combat appearance” of the car, is ordinary, spacious and quite comfortable. The seating position in the rear seat (raised above the floor slightly higher than the front seat) is almost vertical, but, it seemed to me, quite comfortable. The third passenger will not feel out of place here; there is plenty of space in terms of width.

The trunk volume can be significantly increased by folding the rear seatback entirely or in parts.

The front seats with good lateral support have a wide range of adjustments and allow both the passenger and the driver to sit comfortably. Between the seats there is an armrest with an additional box, so the handle for adjusting the pillow vertically has been moved to the outside of the seat and turning it with the door closed is not very convenient.


The leather-trimmed “grassy” steering wheel is adjustable according to the angle of the column and does not overlap the instruments even in extreme positions.

Instrument readings are very easy to read; large white numbers on bright blue dials are clearly visible even in bright light. In addition, the devices themselves are placed in individual wells under a common semicircular canopy.

The automatic mode indicator is located exactly in the center of the dashboard, so it is impossible to “miss” the gear. The box lever itself is quite high with an upper locking button.

There is a small glove compartment at the top of the center console above the heater vents.

In general, you feel very comfortable behind the wheel: all the levers, buttons and knobs are in their places, the seat is comfortable, visibility is good.

Review of Toyota Caldina (1997)

I went to Novosib with the goal of buying a large, always with an honest 4WD (necessarily center diff, no V-Flex, etc.; I had a quirk like that) station wagon, ideally a Kaldina 94-7 year TZ-G (3s-ge 165 horsepower ) automatically.

After an initial search of the market, it turned out that there are no cars in the 195 body with 3s-ge at all, there is only one Kaldina GT B 215 and with a hefty price tag, and that in general the choice of this type of car is not that great. I drew a rough plan of the car market on a piece of paper, marked on it where the cars that interested me were located, and went poking around on the Internet in search of additional information. By the way, I was struck by the abundance and very low prices of galants and legeniums: if the Kaldins of ’97 cost 220 tr, then the galant-shaped ones of ’98-99 cost 185-200. Apparently for the GDI inscription on the board. The next day I was already biasedly looking at 4 cars I liked - TZ 95 (disc brakes in the rear, but no airbags and ABS), 2 almost identical CZ 97 and Carib 98.

Carib - fell off immediately, after Kaldino it is VERY small inside. I ended up buying one from CZ. The sellers there are very reluctant to bargain, but they managed to reduce the price from 218 to 200 + leaving the market at the seller’s expense (I had to show a lot of eloquence)

For those who rent a car in Novosibirsk, I can give you a couple of pieces of advice - don’t rent a car on the first day.

If the car is a run-only one, don’t look at the mileage on the speedometer at all; if it’s an auction car, find useful acquaintances in advance and check on the Internet; the fee for leaving the market usually amounts to several thousand rubles and must be discussed with the seller in advance. Specifically regarding the Kaldins - they may try to install a curtain in the trunk, a jack, etc. for additional money - it must be stopped harshly and in the bud, I have always succeeded. In addition, it is better to do the invoice certificate not at the car market itself, but at a stop from it, you will save 800 rubles.

So, the car was purchased, CZ equipment, but well equipped - original fog lights in the front, fog lights in the rear (one for some reason), very beautiful “crystal” headlights, a spoiler in the rear, an anti-smokers filter (that thing with a fan on the ceiling); production - February 97, in Russia 4 years, mileage 125,000, clearly twisted, the condition of the body, interior and engine is almost perfect, the suspension has a clearly audible knock in the rear suspension. I drove from Novosib to Chelyabinsk myself, there were no problems with the car.

When purchased, it had very high tires - 175*80*14. The car is of course higher, but on the highway at a speed of more than 140 it’s scary to drive, it shakes a lot, it’s clear that the gearbox is not working optimally, the speedometer only accelerated to 175.

Immediately upon arrival in Chelyabinsk, I changed consumables: pads front and rear (the rear was in vain, there was still 50% left), oil, filters (air, fuel, oil); I just washed the cabin one and the air filter; timing belt with rollers, lambda (also a consumable, replacement period - 100,000 km). After replacing the lambda, the consumption remained almost unchanged, but the ride became noticeably faster. I tidied up the rear suspension (all sorts of levers and rubber bands).

I replaced the front engine mount (the result is noticeable), the rear mount of the rear gearbox (the result is not noticeable). I replaced the battery (it was the original 32 Ah battery, not serious for our conditions). The bottom of the car turned out to be in perfect condition, no dents/chips, lucky. I bought standard 185*65*14 tires, and the driving performance immediately fell into place.

For technical inspection, I had the headlights redone in the specified traffic police service (expensive 1200 rubles, but it was done well, the headlights shine almost like full-fledged European ones). I looked at the Euro headlights from the Karina E, but it’s disgusting to pick them up, let alone put them in your car.

On a small note - the front cigarette lighter did not work - there is a fusible insert in the cigarette lighter itself, it’s easy to change it yourself if you know about it.

Postponed for later from the necessary repairs - handbrake cables, springs (sagged a little) and possibly struts (still alive, checked at the stand, but they are slowly starting to make unpleasant sounds). After reading the reviews, I don’t want kayabu, apparently I’ll take either my own ones or contract ones.

The most severe frost we had this year was -30, the car was pleased - it started the first time, although the starter turned with noticeable effort and Castrol 10v40 oil.

Since then I have driven 25,000 km. Among the breakdowns, the rear wheel bearing hummed, replaced it. All. In the sense of breakdowns.

I installed decent music: alpine 9812 head, 5-channel amplifier, subwoofer, 16″ component doors in all doors (they fit in the rear doors without any problems), front door noise, rear door sizing. The subwoofer makes a lot of noise in the back door and the air filter on the ceiling, which will also need to be sealed.

Impressions of the car are purely positive. The salon is huge and perfectly shaped, the front seats fold out flush with the rear ones, forming sleeping places, the rear ones are separately adjustable in angle of inclination and fold out into a flat floor with a trunk. On outings, my friend and I now live in a car instead of a tent. There is more than enough space for passengers both front and rear.

Warm air from the heater blows into the rear passenger's legs. The stove itself shows intelligence not only in the AUTO position, but also in all the others: until the interior warms up, it blows hot air, and then slowly lowers the temperature to the set one; if the car is stationary, you can hear the motors of the dampers sometimes buzzing. Relatively cool air always blows onto the glass.

The original floor mats, made of ~1cm thick pile, make the interior even more comfortable (I didn’t expect such an effect from the floor mats). Nice, expensive-looking soft plastic in the interior; silver blue metallic exterior.

There is a smoker filter on the ceiling instead of the central lamp, an eyeglass case and 2 navigation lamps near the mirror.

Naturally, full power accessories + button-folding mirrors. Naturally the climate. Controlling the central locking from your original key fob.

The bumpers are painted in the same metallic color, but at the same time they are very flexible and forgive light contact with objects such as trees without consequences. ABS and 2 airbags. Possibly pretensioners (wires go to the coils). Automatic mode (power manu), HONEST fulltime 4WD with electronic locking of the center differential - the thing is, you forget what it’s like in winter to not be able to start uphill or to skid at the start. How can you drift it?

In addition, if you drive on severe off-road conditions, a four-wheel drive car will kill you much less than a single-wheel drive car. I’ll explain: in the former Carolla, in order not to get stuck, I had to drive through very high places at a good speed, so that the inertia was enough to fly to a more or less dry place. And scrape the bottom accordingly. And here you can drive slowly through the toughest mud, choosing the road. All the same, until it hangs on its belly, it will crawl to the last.

If you look at the Kaldina from below, then there are 2 powerful spars along the entire bottom, and if it catches something, then in most cases it is with them. From here you can see the perfectly preserved bottom of my car.

The aero and hydrodynamics are well thought out for driving in lousy weather - the mirrors do not get dirty, and when driving through deep puddles at high speed, the engine compartment remains dry.

Now the technical data of my copy, measured by me personally:

Consumption in the city is from 11.5 to 12.5 in the summer and from 12 to 14 (13.5 average) in the winter in the city.

On the highway 8.5-9 at a speed of 100-110 in summer, 10 at a speed of 140 and above in winter.

92 is no different from 95 (but in Chelyabinsk we don’t have a normal 95, everyone from 92 uses it)

The maximum speed achieved is 182 km/h. (according to GPS), beyond the speed cutoff.

The cut-off cannot be confused with anything, the fuel supply is turned off and it’s as if someone is grabbing the car by the rear.

The speedometer needle rests very tightly on the limiter; without GPS, the speedometer estimates the speed as 195-200. At 100 real km/h the speedometer shows 106-107.

In general, GPS is a good sobering tool in conversations like “yes, my chiribas, yes with direct flow, yes, 200 is easy.” It’s not scary to drive at any speed, it drives very confidently, no need to steer, no extraneous sounds or pronounced aerodynamic noise were noted.

The rpm cut-off is 6200.

Torque converter lockup - 55-60 km/h (can be subjectively perceived as fifth gear).

Acceleration to real 100 km.h ~ 11.5 seconds. Measured it in the summer, start with 2 legs, power turned off (the result is worse with it), standard tires, me and my girlfriend weigh 45 kg in the cabin.)

The tank at the gas station holds 53 liters of gasoline when the beggar begins to blink. From the moment it starts blinking until the fuel is completely exhausted, it travels 50 km around the city (although I only measured it once, it’s a pity for the fuel pump).

Oil consumption during the first change in summer is 2 liters per 10,000 km, during the second change in autumn-winter 1.5 liters per 10,000 km. The oil in both cases is Castrol 10v40.

The washer reservoir is interlocked with the expansion tank of the cooling system, so even if there is water there, it melts quite quickly at temperatures down to -5. Capacity - a little more than 3 liters.

Now the disadvantages. It’s somehow not even convenient to call them disadvantages, it’s more of a nit-picking thing.

The main thing is still low ground clearance and large overhangs -> lousy geometric cross-country ability.

Then there is the absence of some useful and necessary little things: no heated mirrors, no glove box illumination, no headlight washers, no rain sensor, only 3 adjustments for the driver’s seat (although the seat itself is very convenient and comfortable). There is no longitudinal adjustment or heated steering wheel. 135 horsepower is still not enough for a heavy all-wheel drive car with an automatic transmission; 170-200 would be just right.

At speeds above 140 rpm 4000 and above and the engine becomes audible. True, its sound is pleasant, one might even say noble.

The noise insulation of the wheel arches is not important, the noise of the tires is annoying. On a bad road and when the subwoofer is working, the rear door rattles, sometimes a cricket appears in the dashboard (it has not yet been possible to catch it).

Sometimes the rear door lock gets stuck, you have to close it, move the handle forward with your hands and open it again. It appears rarely, so it has not yet been possible to catch and correct it.

At the start, a slight blow is felt from behind, the gearbox was checked - there are no backlashes, etc. - accordingly, most likely the rest of the gearbox cushions. On the forums they advise to forget about it.

Since 1996, the Japanese started saving money - they began installing drum brakes instead of disc brakes and removed the anti-roll bar. The brakes are enough for one braking from 180 km/h, you can feel that they are starting to “float” In the city and at more sane speeds - no complaints.

As a curiosity: one winter I left a girl in the car, said - go to the creek if you freeze, and he went skiing. An hour later she calls and says that the car has broken down, that icy air is blowing from the stove and that she will die from the cold right now. I drive up and see that this cute creature has turned the key in the lock, but didn’t realize that it was necessary to turn the starter. Therefore, winding from a button is still missing.

To summarize, it’s an excellent car in all respects; people will be talking about these in ten years, but back then the Japanese were still extremely high-quality and extremely reliable, they served for more than ten years, and the Japanese had not yet skimped on matches.

Let's go

We start the engine. At idle, it rustles barely audibly under the hood. We move the automatic transmission lever to position “D”, and the engine noise in the cabin becomes clearer. Lightly press the gas and the Caldina GT-T rushes forward.

The acceleration dynamics are quite decent, but the impression is slightly spoiled by the thoughtful “automatic”: the gears are engaged without jerking, but with a slight delay. After 3,000 rpm, the turbine reaches operating mode, and that’s when the Toyota really accelerates.

The sporty character of the Toyota Caldina GT-T is manifested not only in the dynamic characteristics, but also in the settings of the suspension and power steering.

The steering sensitivity is very good, with increasing speed the load on the steering wheel increases, the driver knows exactly where the wheels are pointing. The driver responds instantly to any “commands”.

Engine


The engine life is approximately 300-350 thousand km. The resource is greatly influenced by driving style. The turbine will last approximately 150 thousand km. To increase the service life of the turbine, it is recommended to use a turbo timer.

If it is not possible to install it, then it is better to follow a simple rule: immediately after stopping, do not turn off the engine, but let it idle for several minutes so that the turbine cools down.

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