Replacing the oil filter on a Toyota RAV4 yourself

I want to buy a wrench (cup) to remove the oil filter. Please tell me, but who knows exactly (without flooding) how many edges it has. Or better yet, its full parameters... Only without guessing... On the Internet I can Google it myself, but maybe someone has already bought their Rafovodov and will give accurate information...

Something like this, but I don’t know its exact dimensions... garagetools.ru/tovar/semn...filtrov-chashka-65mm-14gr

As I understand now, its parameters are 65 mm. 14 edges...But there are keys where it says 64.5 mm. 14 edges... I think these are the same key in terms of parameters... 0.5 mm cannot play a role I think so... On the contrary, it will sit more tightly on the filter housing...

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The effectiveness of cleaning the oil filter affects the service life of the power unit. That is why this element must be changed in a timely manner - otherwise, you can quickly bring the car to the need for major repairs.

Frequency of oil filter replacement in Toyota RAV4

Toyota RAV4 owners should take note of the information: the oil and filter element should be changed on these cars every 10,000 kilometers traveled. The specified frequency is strongly recommended by the manufacturer - this allows you to avoid accelerated wear of the power unit. It is recommended to warm up the engine before starting work.

The principle of updating the lubricant is clear and simple: the old oil is drained, the filter element is changed, and then a new one is poured in. You can do this work yourself, without contacting service specialists. Depending on the generation of this car, the system is filled with synthetics or semi-synthetics from brands such as Shell, Mobil Super, XADO or Toyota branded ones.

How to distinguish an original filter from a fake

Experienced owners of Toyota RAV4 SUVs do not skimp on the quality of consumables, on which the performance of the power unit depends. A poor-quality oil filter on a Toyota RAV4 will first lead to increased consumption of lubricant and fuel, leaks, and later to costly hassle associated with repairs. Therefore, there is a need to learn how to distinguish an original product from a fake.

First of all, you should pay attention to the selling price. Originals will never be cheap, and vice versa. Please note that original filters contain manufacturer holograms on the body. Most often it is located on the side of the case, close to the pasted label. Be sure to look for the logo - this increases the likelihood that the product is original.

There will definitely be a barcode on the case - you need to look for it either on the side or on the top of the lid. For example, for such popular MANN products, the following rules apply:

• on the original the packaging is denser and more colorful;
• rich colors are used to create the inscription;
• the letters are not as large as on fakes;
• The date and time of production must be marked;
• all drawings are clearly visible;
• The internal thread is made of high quality and has 1 turn more than the counterfeit one.

Puller/wrench for car oil filter

Hi all. In today's review we will talk about a universal puller (wrench) for automobile oil filters. I bought this key on Aliexpress in anticipation of the upcoming scheduled maintenance of the car. This product may be of interest to those who are trying to do something with their car with their own hands, or to those who go to a service station to change the oil - there is no point in reading further.

So, the reason for making this purchase was the location of the filter. In my car it is located at the bottom and is located in such a way that there is no good access to it. On one side it is closed by a subframe, and on the other by the engine crankcase. So using the time-tested method of using a leather belt will not work here. This is what prompted me to search for the right puller.

After a short search on Aliexpress, a suitable lot was found. At the time of purchase, it was slightly more expensive: $2.22 versus today’s $2.17. The seller sent it without a full track, but the parcel was tracked in China. Anyone can view this information here.

The parcel spent about a month on the way, after which it was safely received at my post office.

Externally, the puller is completely no different from what can be seen on the seller’s page.

I have no complaints about the quality of workmanship; the casting is done quite well. Everything is smooth and looks neat. The material used is something very reminiscent of aluminum. The puller is lightweight, but at the same time quite durable (I had to knock it off the removed filter - there were no marks left on the puller). It can be used both in conjunction with a regular wrench and with a ratchet. A 26mm socket can be fitted, or a standard extension from the tool kit can be inserted into the hole.

The hole size is 14*14 millimeters, so standard wrenches fit perfectly.

The inner diameter of the puller is 64 millimeters.

By the way, on the inside of the puller there are inscriptions indicating its dimensions: 65P-14. Unfortunately, I don’t know what “901” means.

In principle, there is nothing else interesting in the appearance of the puller, which means we can move on to its practical tests. Unfortunately, due to the fact that all my hands were covered in oil, there is no photo of the process, but there is a photo of the result:

The wrench fit perfectly on the old Mahle OC 217 filter. There were no problems with removing it and installing a new one, and it took very little time. But here you should remember that the filter housing must be of the appropriate shape (turnkey). Otherwise, this puller will not help at all.

To sum up everything that has been written here, I can say that this puller will be useful for those who service their car themselves. If the filter is located on the side or there is easy access to it, then you can do without this key. There are a bunch of different options. But if there is not enough free space around the filter (as in my case), then a puller is very helpful. Of course, it would be possible to pierce the housing with a screwdriver or come up with something else, but this would take much more time, and much more waste oil would leak out. So I was pleased with the purchase. After spending $2 on a purchase, you can start saving on trips to service stations, which charge $5-10 for an oil change. By the way, for something similar they ask us for 55 Belarusian rubles (about $28)!!!

That's all. Thank you for your attention and your time.

Materials and tools

The process of changing the lubricant in the RAV4 cannot be done on your own if you do not prepare tools and related materials in advance. Of course, you need to buy oil and a replacement filter for it. From the rest you will need:

• empty container for “working off”;
• wrench with end-type attachments;
• special key puller;
• 14 mm socket wrench;
• a few rags.

Before starting the replacement procedure, experts recommend warming up the engine for 5 minutes to improve viscosity. Cold lubricant flows out worse and will eventually mix with the new one, which will worsen its performance characteristics. It is best to make the replacement in a garage where there is an inspection hole. Some people use an overpass or simply jack up the front wheels. To quickly drain the waste, it is advisable to unscrew not only the drain plug, but also the filler plug, and also pull out the dipstick. This will speed up the work.

Also, before starting the procedure, you should decide whether to flush the system with a special cleaning fluid. This, of course, will cleanse the system well of residual old lubricant. Flushing is done before replacing the filter - liquid is poured into the engine, and the car starts for 3-5 minutes. After this, it is poured into a specially prepared container.

How to properly replace the oil filter

On a Toyota RAV4, replacing the oil filter is no more difficult than on other modern passenger vehicles. So, the approximate procedure should be as follows:

1. The oil filler cap is unscrewed.
2. Next, using a wrench equipped with an end attachment, the crankcase protection is removed.
3. On some models, for example, 2014, a special hatch is provided, which will allow you not to remove the protection, but will provide free access to the filter element.
4. We begin to pour the “working off” into a previously prepared empty container.
5. Take a ring wrench (14) and use it to unscrew the crankcase drain plug.
6. Now it’s time for a special key-puller - with its help you unscrew the plastic body of the replacement cartridge. You can get by with a spanner wrench if you wrap it in a dry cloth and act carefully.
7. Now that the housing is removed, you can remove the filter element from it and replace it with a new one. A little oil is added to the filter to prevent the parts from starving while the system processes new lubricant.
8. Using the same puller, the cartridge plug is installed in its seat.
9. Next, you need to assess the condition of the spacer ring - whether there is a need to replace it. If so, then the new ring is coated with oil before installation.
10. You can put the crankcase drain plug back. It is tightened back using a spanner.
11. Now you can pour new oil into the filler neck. As you top up, the level is controlled using a dipstick. Depending on the size of the engine and the fuel (gasoline or diesel) with which it is filled, the volume of lubricant can be 4-5 liters. Therefore, an appropriate canister is purchased.
12. You can tighten the plug through which new lubricant was poured.
13. It is necessary to inspect the area under the engine and make sure that there are no signs of leakage anywhere.
14. The crankcase protection can be installed in its proper place.

Any high-quality oil filters from well-known manufacturers provide the highest protection of the engine from dirt and paraffin. You should not skimp on the purchase of such consumables, nor on the lubricant itself. At the same time, you can do the replacement work yourself and save some money, and at the same time get to know the structure of your RAV4 better.

Selecting oil and oil filter

For the current body (V50), the manufacturer has established for all engines the use of low-viscosity energy-saving oils (ILSAC classifier - GF-4) with a viscosity of 5W-30 or 0W-20.

The second option is optimal for regions with cold climates. It would be a serious mistake to use common 5W-40 oils, even if they meet the required API quality category (at least SL), since engines designed for low-viscosity oil begin to actively consume thicker oil (thin oil scraper rings cannot cope with a more durable oil film on the cylinder walls). This is especially true for the 3.5-liter 2GR-FE engine.

Accordingly, when choosing an analogue of the original oil, you need to look first of all at the presence of the ILSAC classifier - for example, Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, Castrol Edge Professional A5 meet the requirements. Filling volumes: for a two-liter engine - 4.3 liters, for a 2.5 engine - 4.4 liters, a 3.5 engine will require 5.7 liters.

The 1AZ-FE engine (2 liters) uses a filter with the original designation 90915-10004. Its analogs are Mahle OC17, MANN W610/9, Champion COF100138S.

The 2.5-liter 2AR-FE engine is no longer equipped with a housing filter, but with a cartridge filter. The cartridge installation kit for vehicles not manufactured for the Japanese market is marked 04152-31090. Analogues - MANN HU 7019 Z, Bosch F026407098.

The 2GR-FE engine (3.5 l) also uses a cartridge filter with the same number and analogues.