Replacing the wheel bearing for Toyota Corolla 120

Bearing failure is accompanied by deterioration in vehicle dynamics and uneven tire wear. When entering a turn, the car may skid. A failed hub creates a noticeable vibration on the steering wheel and body, in some cases accompanied by a characteristic hum and crackling sound.

The original front hub of the Toyota Corolla 120 has article number 4350269087. Its price is more than 4,000 rubles. The wheel bearing has part number 90080-36087 or 90363-40066. Its cost is about 600 rubles. When purchasing an original bearing in original packaging, the car owner will find a product manufactured by KOYO with article number DAC4074W-3. This is due to the fact that Toyota does not personally produce wheel bearings, but purchases them from a third-party Japanese company.

Original wheel bearing

Table - Good analogues of the original Corolla 120 front wheel bearings

Brand	Catalog number	Cost, ruble
Ashika	Meyle	590-360
NSK	40BWD12FCA88	900-1100
Kavo Parts	WBK9033	820-870
Nipparts	J4702041	800-850
Meyle	30146500001	1060-2000

Toyota Corolla 120 hub and wheel bearing

Failure of a Toyota Corolla 120 wheel bearing is accompanied by the car pulling to the side, reducing free run and increasing fuel consumption.
An external inspection of the wheel may reveal play, as well as heating of the hub after movement. Bearing failure is accompanied by deterioration in vehicle dynamics and uneven tire wear. When entering a turn, the car may skid. A failed hub creates a noticeable vibration on the steering wheel and body, in some cases accompanied by a characteristic hum and crackling noise.

Table - Good analogues of the original Corolla 120 front wheel bearings

Brand	Catalog number	Cost, ruble
Ashika	Meyle	590-360
NSK	40BWD12FCA88	900-1100
Kavo Parts	WBK9033	820-870
Nipparts	J4702041	800-850
Meyle	30146500001	1060-2000

Article number and price of branded rear wheel bearings for Toyota Corolla 120 and their analogues

The Corolla 120 branded rear hub has article numbers 42450-12050, 42450-12051 and 42450-02060. The price for a branded spare part is 15,000 rubles. The original rear wheel bearing is not supplied to the domestic market, so you have to purchase an assembled unit. Many car owners, when disassembling the rear hub, discover a Koyo bearing with article number DACF 1177. Its price does not exceed 2,000 rubles.

Table - The best alternatives to the original rear wheel bearings of the Corolla 120

Company manufacturer	Article number	Approximate cost, ruble
Denckermann	W413436	2100-2300
Febest	0182120DBR	2800-3000
BTA	H22080BTA	2000-2200
Japan Parts	KK22081	4000-4300
Sakura	4103778	3000-3200

Front wheel bearing

Since last summer, I have already replaced the right front wheel bearing 4 times; after replacement, after 2-3 thousand it begins to hum. What disables it for me, what do you think? I installed the original the first 2 times, the analogue the next 2 times. The result is the same.

There are 37 replies to this topic

Keep track of those who change your bearings. These workers can deliver without washing and lubrication. They come in a preservative (to prevent rust), rinse in kerosene and lubricate generously. the preservative does not last long..)))

Should the hum be constant? On my left side, a rhythmic noise and vibration appears at a speed of 70-80 km/h. The car was involved in an accident - it was hit on the right, but there I installed a contract for the hub. And also, when your backside is weak with the steering wheel turned off, a cracking or crunching sound appears about 4 times, what could it be?

Jin549 writes: Should the hum be constant? On my left side, a rhythmic noise and vibration appears at a speed of 70-80 km/h. The car was involved in an accident - it was hit on the right, but there I installed a contract for the hub. And also, when the back is weak with the steering wheel turned off, a cracking or crunching sound appears about 4 times, what could it be?

The text of the message was changed by the user on October 21, 2021 at 21:34:37

and the cyclical hum, also from the CV joint?

We have 1500 birches for each side. So it turns out, 3000. Same problem. Changed it three times. The first two times lasted for a year. I went on vacation for the third time and drove 3200 km. A howl appeared. So I can’t understand. What's the matter. Why do they fail?

I've already changed the 5th! ))) it’s a matter of lubrication! I was the last one to open a used one, it’s not there! One row is greased, and the second is almost dry and the balls are eaten on one side. I bought a new one and opened it. exactly one row in the grease. the other is dry. There is grease in the middle. But in a used one, it was still lying there brand new) in short, I wiped off this shit, washed it with gasoline and stuffed it with lithol 24. So far everything is fine. Change the lubricant. This is their business. Less lubrication means more bearings are purchased. But when opening it, carefully pry it up with a screwdriver so as not to bend the edge of the inner clip. It is pressed against the bearing seal, it must be even, otherwise water and dirt will get in. It is not possible to drag it. The hub rests on a grenade. Tighten by hand only with a wrench. Without pipes and amplifiers of any kind. One handshake was enough for me. They unscrewed it with difficulty using a 2 meter pipe! I'm changing it myself now. Instead of a press there are bolts and washers. I used to press sales blocks with him on a Muscovite)

Jack up the car, spin the wheel) noise, if there is a bearing. Check the play. The crunch is already if the bearing is generally an ass. So the wheel will come off. Or the grenade is screwed. It crunches when turning. Check the anthers. Maybe they are not on grenades)

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Replacing the wheel bearing on a Toyota Corolla

After you have managed to unscrew the two bolts, carefully and carefully remove the caliper and set it aside. The brake pads should also be removed and set aside for a while.

Toyota Corolla has good pads that can not wear out for many years, which is a definite plus. You will notice how much space is freed up for future work.

Replacement of the wheel bearing will proceed more easily at this stage. In addition, the path to the brake discs will be open. Replacing a wheel bearing cannot be done without a puller.

With its help, the ball joint is pressed out. Then simply remove the brake disc.

Replacement features

The Toyota Corolla is quite easy to assemble, so a procedure such as replacing a wheel bearing can be carried out independently without resorting to an expensive tire shop.

You will need a new bearing of the original type and a special head. It will be needed at the moment when you unscrew the hub bearing. Also prepare the spark plug head in advance.

As for the original bearing, difficulties may arise here. The fact is that if you purchase a non-original bearing, the replacement may be performed poorly. You can buy original bearings only in the official Toyota store.

Pros and cons of installing a part in a car service

So, replacing the wheel bearing on Toyota Corolla 120 and 150 body cars is a process that requires not only physical strength, but also accuracy. Otherwise, instead of fixing the problem, you can make the problem even worse. This process can also be performed in a service center, the advantage of this is a 100% guaranteed result, as well as the opportunity not to think about how to replace the wheel bearing on a Toyota Corolla.

The disadvantages include the high cost of the work carried out, as well as a fairly long time (the part is replaced within a few hours), a car with such a breakdown can sit in the service for several days. If the disadvantages still outweigh the advantages, then the spare part should be changed yourself.

It is also important to remember about the age of the car; for example, models produced in 2008 are primarily susceptible to wear of the wheel bearing (in fact, this part is a replaceable consumable).

Required Tools for Wheel Bearing Replacement

To properly replace a wheel bearing, you will need the tools listed in the table below.

Table - List of required tools

Name	Note
Key	“at 19”, “at 22″
Screwdriver	Flat blade
Balloon Key	Remove the wheel
Extractor	For bearings
Hammer	Medium or large
Connector	Not required with a lift
Install	2 pcs.

What causes a wheel bearing malfunction in Toyota Corolla E120–E150

Reasons why this element fails earlier:

they drove the car aggressively, without taking into account the quality of the road;
Water got under the seal and washed away the lubricant;
the car was constantly overloaded.

Operation without overload, careful driving, and regular inspections will extend the service life of the part.

How to determine if a car bearing is failing

The most obvious sign: the wheel begins to emit a constant hum and other extraneous sounds while driving. To clearly determine whether a wheel bearing is working or not, you need to:

lift the car with a jack;
hang out the wheel;
turn on the transmission;
lightly press the gas pedal.

If you hear obvious noise in the area of the axis, it’s time to change the part.

Replacing the front wheel bearing of a Toyota Corolla

The process then goes as follows:

Carefully knock out the hub axle from the steering knuckle using a pipe of a suitable diameter;
Using a screwdriver, pry up and remove the retaining ring;

We install a spacer under the press, with a diameter slightly smaller than the outer ring;
We place a fist with a ball bearing on top;
Press the outer race out of the fist.

If the ring remains on the axle, then a grinder will help. With its help, we make a neat cut, which should not reach the part itself, and then we knock down the clip using a chisel.

We clean the seat for the new part. We get rid of dirt and abrasive elements. Also, when replacing the ball bearing of the front hub of a Toyota Corolla, you should treat the new part with engine oil to simplify the subsequent installation process.

Replacing the front wheel bearing of Toyota Corolla 2008

After all working surfaces have been processed, you can proceed to the assembly stage:

We place the new part in the seat;
We press it in, then put the old part on top to press it all the way.

Next, we install the hub under the press, place a fist on top and press the elements of the assembly together;
We install the retaining ring. Assembly of the unit occurs in the reverse order of dismantling.

Carrying out replacement without a press, with a puller

Removing the old ball bearing without a press is done mechanically, as shown in the photo below.

The press is a special tool and not everyone can buy it. But the front wheel bearing of a Toyota Corolla can be changed in makeshift conditions. To make a homemade puller, you need a long metal bolt with nuts, which must be threaded into the hole in the knuckle.

You can use old ball bearing races as a mandrel. Pressing takes place according to the system shown in the photo. The hub itself is placed in the seats in the same way.

It is important to note the fact that the installation does not tolerate shock loads. When trying to press a part with a hammer, there is a high probability of distortion of the new part, which will lead to accelerated production of the element.

Structural differences between generations

The wheel bearing design is slightly different in the Toyota Corolla 2008–2013 and in the same car of the previous generation. However, the overall layout of the unit is not related to the generation of the machine. Since 2012–2013, he has been installing hub assemblies with ball bearings. Before this, the layout was often different - like the E120, released in 2000-2008.

How to remove a wheel bearing and replace it

You will need a jack, a minus screwdriver, a hammer, lubricant, a standard set of keys, and a universal puller. You need to do the following:

fix the car on a lift and hang the problem wheel;
remove the decorative cap;
press the brake, tear off the central fastener;
unscrew the wheel fasteners and tear it off;
fix the brake disc with a screwdriver;
start unscrewing the axial fastening nut (head 30);
unscrew the bolts with a 17mm wrench that hold the caliper;
remove it to the side and secure it;

The brake disc can now be removed. Required:

unscrew the steering rods (head 22);
remove the special cotter pin;
unscrew the bolt with a 17 key;
remove the ABS sensor;
disconnect the steering knuckle (head 19 and key);
Remove the wheel bearing with the steering knuckle.

After this, the replacement process itself begins. Necessary:

carefully knock out the hub axle from the rotary wheel - a pipe of the required diameter will do;
pry it up with a screwdriver and remove the retaining ring;
install a spacer under the press - the diameter is slightly smaller than the outer ring;
place a fist with a ball bearing on top;
press the outer race out of the fist.

If you are unable to remove the ring, you can use a grinder to carefully cut it and then knock the ring off with a chisel. It is important not to damage the bearing itself.

Then it is important to clean the landing site for the new unit, remove dirt and dust. To make installation easier, the new element is treated with engine oil. Then the installation itself is carried out. Need to:

place a new part in the seat;
press it in, and then put the old unit on top to press it in until it stops;
place the hub under the press, place a fist on top and press the parts together;
install the retaining ring.

During installation, the operations that were performed during disassembly are repeated in reverse order.

How to replace with a puller, without a press

If the ball bearing is old, it is removed mechanically without using a press. Some motorists make a suitable puller themselves. To do this, you need a long bolt with nuts - it is threaded into the hole in the fist. Old ball bearing races are suitable for mandrels.

Do not strike during installation. When trying to press a part with a hammer, it is easy to warp it - as a result, the service life will be greatly reduced.

Differences when replacing ball bearings between different models

The layout of the E120–E140 models, which were produced in 2000–2014, is different. The ball bearing is not pressed out - it is installed assembled with the hub. You need to do the following:

unscrew the nuts and remove the wheel;
unscrew the bolts that hold the caliper;
remove the brake disc;
unscrew the hub nut;
remove the steering knuckle bolts;
remove the hub assembly;
Install the new part by tightening the bolts.

After this, adjacent parts are installed in place, repeating the steps in reverse order. Installation is the same for front and rear wheels.

By contacting the online store, you can purchase a new wheel bearing for Toyota Corolla cars produced from the late 1990s to the present day without overpayments. Using proven, original components, it is easier to maximize the service life of the bearing, increase the safety and comfort of travel.

Which bearing to install on Toyota Land Cruiser Prado 120

A wide selection of new parts is provided by auto parts stores, and used parts are provided by car dismantling yards. The best option would be a genuine roller bearing (with abs) Toyota 43570-60010, average price - 3552 rubles.

Auto parts stores offer replacement bearings from different manufacturers:

hub assembly with front roller bearing with abs B-ring BK8986, RUB 1,326;
wheel hub Zekkert RL-1065, RUB 2,140;
front wheel hub bearing repair kit with oil seals with abs sensor ring Optimal 981 887, RUB 2,853;
hub unit Masuma MW-11009, RUB 3,637.

Everyone will be able to choose a part based on their financial capabilities.

The process of replacing the front wheel bearing on a Toyota Corolla 150

The front wheel bearing is replaced together with the hub. Detailed instructions are given below.

Jack up the car.
Remove the wheel.
Release the hub nut stopper.

Unscrew the hub nut.

Unscrew the two caliper mounting bolts.

Remove the bracket.

Remove the brake disc.

To make it easier to dismantle the hub, treat its fastenings with penetrating lubricant.

Unscrew the hub fastenings.

The hub gets stuck very often. It must be torn out of place using a sledgehammer or large hammer. You need to hit the inside of the hub. When a gap appears, you need to insert a pry bar into it and jerk the hub out.