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This payment method is optimal for residents of Russia, Kazakhstan and Belarus.
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Features of the Corolla chassis
The suspension of a Japanese car supplied to the Russian market has increased ground clearance. The automaker focuses on poor road conditions in Russia and creates cars that are most suitable for use.
Suspension device
The Toyota Corolla's chassis may seem quite rigid, but it is very ergonomic. Stabilizers, for example, often have a mileage of up to 70-90 thousand kilometers or more. They can be changed quite easily, but this requires some knowledge and skills. The manufacturer has taken care of the simplicity of the design, so even a person far from car repair can understand it. Toyota Corolla suspension ball joints can withstand over 150 thousand kilometers.
Regular car maintenance can significantly extend the life of your car's chassis and save you money on expensive repairs.
Most often, stabilizer bushings and silent blocks fail. According to the automaker's regulations, they should be changed every 70-90 thousand kilometers. Motorists driving at high speeds may decide at 140-150 km/h that their suspension is faulty. In fact, the occurrence of soft knocking noises at such speeds is normal.
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Payment via Portmone
After selecting payment through Portmone, the payment system will launch, where you need to select the payment method: bank card or Portmone account.
The price in the Portmone payment system is converted into dollars at the exchange rate of the Central Bank of the country where you are located.
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Official website of the Portmone payment system https://www.portmone.com
What parts can be found in the rear suspension of the Corolla Fielder with 4WD?
The all-wheel drive Toyota Corolla model has twice as many parts in the rear suspension compared to the front-wheel drive. In total, our Corolla has 22 parts and now we will list them:
- Washer
- Rack support
- Bracket for fastening the strut to the body
- Rack support
- Spring limiter
- Vibration isolator (upper)
- Spring
- Rack
- Silent block
- Lower control arm
- Front lower control arm support
- Restriction sleeve
- Toe adjustment eccentric
- Washer
- Fist
- Upper adjustment lever
- Washer
- Shaft adjustment eccentric
- Rack
- Anti-roll bar
- Sleeve
- Mounting bracket.
In the photo below, you can visually trace the names of all the parts and, most importantly, figure out where and what is located, as well as what and why exactly is attached. Before starting work, you should study the suspension structure in detail and only then try to do anything yourself.
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After specifying the information required to make the payment, you must click on the “Pay Now” button.
Official website of the PayPal payment system https://www.paypal.com
Signs of failure of silent blocks
Rear silent blocks.
The first sign of failure of the silent blocks of the rear beam of the Toyota Corolla E120 is a knocking sound in the rear suspension.
Diagnostics of these products is carried out on a pit or a lift. In this case, the silent blocks must hold firmly. If there is a strong play in the place where the beam parts are installed, then this is a sign of a malfunction of the rubber product.
Payment via WebMoney
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If you do not have a WebMoney wallet and you want to pay in another way, you need to select any of the methods that WebMoney offers and make the payment
After specifying payment details and confirming payment, payment for the goods will occur.
Official website of the WebMoney payment system https://www.webmoney.ru/
Is it possible to carry out repairs in the garage?
The service life of the Toyota Corolla suspension directly depends on the operating conditions of the vehicle. The more often you move on poor-quality road surfaces at high speed, the more likely it is that an unpleasant creaking, knocking, grinding noise will occur, indicating a malfunction in the car. You can get rid of these problems yourself, knowing the cause of the malfunction and having the necessary tools for repair at hand.
The suspension of the 2008 Toyota Corolla by now, as a rule, requires careful attention, since an almost ten-year-old car, even in very good conditions, begins to experience metal fatigue.
Cars of this generation are equipped with a relatively rigid, but ergonomic suspension that can absorb fairly noticeable impacts.
If you are the owner of a car produced in 2006–2008, you should not wait for a squeak to appear in the suspension. When the mileage approaches the 100 thousand km mark, it is necessary to carry out a routine check of the chassis in order to identify possible faults in advance and eliminate them. Such repairs will cost much less than those carried out on an emergency basis, when knocking or creaking will be clearly audible.
Downloading a book
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Step-by-step instructions for replacing the springs and struts of the Corolla rear suspension
Let's start our repair, we should start with the selection of tools and parts. First of all, we need a standard set of tools that every driver should have. Set of various keys and sockets. You will also need a jack, a mechanism for compressing springs, screwdrivers, a hammer - you may also need other minor tools along the way (screwdriver, etc.).
As for the details, everything is simple here. There is no point in looking for more powerful springs than were available. It is important to note that all-wheel drive models already have more powerful springs and reinforced 20 mm struts. Therefore, there is no need to reinvent the wheel, we just order standard reinforced struts and springs for Toyota Fielder 4WD at a convenient place for you. The photo shows the required part.
Having found everything you need, you can think about inflating the car, if this is of course necessary.
First of all, remove the side plastic trim; there should be no problems with removal. Let's look at the photos.
Next, after removing the casing, you should loosen 3 nuts. The rear spring supports are secured with three studs (not two + a bolt, as in front-wheel drive models). Therefore, we have to slightly loosen 3 nuts.
After all this has been done, we need to unscrew the nut on the rod. It's not difficult to do this. Take 17 keys + head of the required size and unscrew. The photograph shows the process of unscrewing the rod nut.
After this, we will need to unscrew the links on both sides of the stabilizer itself and move it up. If this is not done immediately, then the stabilizer will interfere with unscrewing the shock absorber from the bottom. Therefore, we think through everything in advance and do the same so that we don’t have to suffer later.
Finally we got to the lower shock absorber mounting nut. It needs to be twisted. This is done with a 19 mm wrench. You will have to make a lot of effort, since it is tightly tightened. When it is twisted, you can jack up the car.
So, let's jack up the side we need - we hope everyone knows how to do this. We remove the wheel; first, before lifting the car, you should remove the bolts from their place, since it will be more difficult to do this on a spinning wheel in the air, unless of course you leave the car in gear. Having removed the wheel, we need to place a stand under the lever, on which we will later lower the car.
This must be done in order for the spring to compress. We put special ties on it, through which we compress the spring even more. The ties are tightened, after this action we need to raise the car, remove the bolt in the lower shock absorber mount and finally pull the shock absorber down from its place. We will not remove the spring support. Loosen the nuts to allow the structure to move.
After completing all these actions, we replace the shock absorber with a new one, and do not forget about the bump stops. To install the new shock absorber, we decided to use an additional hydraulic jack, since without it there was no way to get the lower part of the shock absorber into the mount.
After the new shock absorber is installed and all the nuts have been tightened into place, you should do the same steps on the other side of your car. There is nothing complicated here. The only thing you should do is go to a service station for a final suspension adjustment. By the way, it should be mentioned that while the shock absorber is dismantled, it is advisable to replace the rear stabilizer bushing - since this is very easy to do until the part is installed in its place. As for inflating the car, you can use special liners with a diameter of no more than 25 mm. “Ladovskie” ones are perfect and + they also come with extra long bolts.
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Problems when paying with bank cards
Sometimes difficulties may arise when paying with Visa/MasterCard bank cards. The most common of them:
- There is a restriction on the card for paying for online purchases
- A plastic card is not intended for making payments online.
- The plastic card is not activated for making payments online.
- There are not enough funds on the plastic card.
In order to solve these problems, you need to call or write to the technical support of the bank where you are served. Bank specialists will help you resolve them and make payments.
That's basically it. The entire process of paying for a book in PDF format on car repair on our website takes 1-2 minutes.
If you still have any questions, you can ask them using the feedback form, or write us an email at [email protected]
Removing old shock absorbers.
We are removing the shock absorbers, what should be done for this.
1. Loosen the lower nuts where the shock absorber is attached to the beam.
We do not completely unscrew the shock absorber mounting nut.
2. We climb into the cabin and remove the decorative cap that covers the end of the shock absorber .
Remove the decorative protective cap.
3. We begin to unscrew the nuts securing the rod to the body. We take two open-end wrenches No. 14 and unscrew the top nut. Then we use wrench No. 5.5 to hold the rod together with wrench No. 14 and unscrew the last nut. Now we remove the shock absorber. But we leave the top washer as it We will install it on a new rubber band and a metal bushing.
Unscrew the nuts that secure the shock absorber rod to the body.
4. We install the beam in the lowest position (avoiding bending of the brake pipes) to install the springs. We remove the old vibration isolators of the springs, then clean the upper and lower support cups of the springs from contamination.
To install the springs, place the beam in this way to the bottom position but do not bend the brake pipes.
5. We place new vibration isolators of the springs in the support cups. First we do this with the lower ones, we lay them by turning them all the way where the end of the spring coil ends. With the upper vibration isolators, we should proceed differently; they should be immediately placed on the spring, comparing them with the groove of the end of the spring coil on the upper support.
Distinctive features of rear spring vibration isolators.
6. We tighten the new springs with one tie for each (if you install two of them, they will get in the way in the support cups). The process is carried out with the simultaneous installation of springs. Pressing each spring with a jack, resting it on the lower support cup. Of course, monitoring the position of the vibration isolators of the springs.
The process of installing springs on the rear beam.
Another small extreme! When the installation process is carried out, you should take into account the position of the end of the spring coil in the lower support cup. This is controlled this way: the last coil No. 1 should be located from the beginning of the cut of the lower support cup No. 2 relative to the beam.
How the end of the spring coil should be installed on the lower support cup.
Suspension functions
Suspension is the connecting link between the wheels and the main supporting system of the car - the frame and body. This unit provides a movable, not too rigid connection between the wheels and the body, in which they move up and down relative to the frame and body of the car. By ensuring vertical movement of the wheels, the suspension simultaneously limits their lateral and angular movements, which deteriorate the stability of the car. If it were not for the suspension, any shock from the contact of the wheels with the road would be fully transmitted to the body, and the car, instead of bouncing on bumps, would wobble left and right. The suspension solves the following problems:
- due to the connection of moving and fixed elements, it ensures vehicle movement, acceleration and braking, turning and lateral maneuvers;
- increases vehicle stability and improves handling, ensures a smooth ride, prevents skidding and rollovers;
- stabilizes the position of the car when turning;
- absorbs shock energy, protects body parts from premature wear and makes the ride more comfortable for the driver and passengers.
There are no diamonds in a car suspension, but for a car this unit is priceless
