10.2 Replacing the brake pads of the front wheels

Toyota Carina has drum brake pads at the rear, with the exception of the 2 liter petrol model. Replacing the rear pads of a Toyota Carina begins with removing the wheel and drum.

To make the drum easier to remove, you need to release the handbrake . To do this, remove the trim, gaining access to the adjusting bolt, then unscrew the lock nut and two more nuts. Thanks to this, the pads will press less and the drum will be easier to remove.

If he hasn’t filmed for a long time, he may be stubborn even after that. For such a case, the drum has two holes for 8mm bolts . You need to tighten these bolts so that they rest against the hub and press out the drum.

You can find out what to do next and how to replace the pads on a Toyota Carina by watching this video with instructions.

Today I will try to tell you how to change rear drum pads :)

Before that, I did a temporary B.Z. to collect a little information... Namely, which company to get the pads, for which they are HUGE

NiBK
pads “as long as they don’t whistle or squeak, you can’t see any dust on the discs!

Let's start with the fact that to replace the brake pads we will need: - new brake pads; NiBK - a jack. - two bolts (to unscrew the drum) - a screwdriver. -2 hours of free time. - pliers. -balloon.

1. My first steps were: Put “tackle bars” under the wheel so that it wouldn’t roll. Remove the nuts on the wheel. Jack up the car and put a stump of wood under it... just in case you're a fireman :) Remove the wheel.

2. There are 2 holes on the drum, find 2 bolts somewhere and tighten them one by one. 3. The drum should get off the ground :) When you have succeeded” Namely, remove the drum!

4. Take a camera or phone and take a photo, maybe a couple... This will make it easier to remember where which springs are located, or how they are located :)

5. Let's take it apart little by little. remove all sorts of “springs” Each block is held in place by pins with washers. Don’t be afraid to press and turn it a little :) Everything should fall apart

6. One block must be held on the retaining ring. Using a screwdriver, pry it out on both sides. Remove everything... Now we install a new block and assemble the “circlip, straighten it with pliers, clamp it, everything is ready! Continue on the side :) “ The most interesting stage :)

“This is where a photo or the second wheel will help you out,” look at how it stands there” :)

7. Everything is assembled, but the drum does not stand up... That's right! After all, you need to tighten the handbrake adjusting bolt with a screwdriver

! Stands up, the drum spins easily :)

Replacing Toyota Carina brake pads in Moscow: addresses of technical centers

1,148 auto repair centers

1. Stoa
2. Novofedorovskoe settlement, block No. 135, Torgovaya Square, 12, building 1
3. +7
4. daily, 09:00–22:00

3.2 4 ratings

4.6 18 ratings

4.7 88 ratings

3.7 35 ratings

4.4 10 ratings

5.0 44 ratings

5.0 3 ratings

4.2 11 ratings

4.7 40 ratings

4.5 48 ratings

4.7 23 ratings

5.0 42 ratings

1 115 Show car services on the map

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132 Toyota Carina Toyota Carina rear drum brakes Rear drum brakes Removal
1. Remove the inspection hole plug and check the thickness of the brake pads through it. Minimum thickness .....1,, mm If the thickness of the linings is less than the minimum allowable, replace the brake pads. 2. Remove the rear wheel of the Toyota Carina. 3. Remove the brake drum. Note: If the brake drum cannot be removed easily, perform the following procedures: a) remove the service hole plug. b) insert a screwdriver into the service hole of the brake flap and remove the lever from the automatic regulator. c) using another screwdriver, twist the automatic gearbox to reduce its length.

4. Remove the front brake pad. a) Using special tools, separate the return spring. 6. Remove the automatic governor and parking brake levers. a) remove the thrust ring. b) remove the automatic regulator lever. c) remove the thrust ring. d) remove the parking brake lever. 7. Remove the wheel brake cylinder. a) using special tools, separate the brake pipe. Drain the brake fluid into a container. b) unscrew the 2 bolts and remove the wheel brake cylinder. 8. Disassemble the wheel brake cylinder. Remove the following parts: — two boots; — two pistons; - two cuffs; - spring. Rear drum brakes of Toyota Carina (2wd). 1 — service hole plug, 2 — pad fasteners, 3 — boot, 4 — bleeder cap, 5 — bleeder, 6 — wheel brake cylinder, 7 — spring, 8 — boot, 9 — piston, 10 — cuff, 11 — thrust ring, 12 — automatic regulator lever, 13 — parking brake lever, 14 — adjusting washer, 15 — spring, 16 — brake pad, 17 — inspection hole plug, 18 — spring seat, 19 — spring, 20 — automatic regulator pad, 21 — automatic regulator screw, 22 — return spring, 23 — fixing spring, 24 — brake drum. Note: when mounting the parts indicated by the arrows, apply: - a special grease that does not damage the rubber, b) Using special tools, remove the holder spring, spring seats and fasteners. c) remove the lator. d) using pliers, separate the cable from the parking brake lever and remove the rear shoe. automatic regulation

c) disconnect the mounting spring from the front brake pad and remove the front brake pad. d) remove the mounting spring from the rear brake pad. 5. Removing the rear brake pad of a Toyota Carina. a) using special tools, remove the holder spring, spring seats and fasteners. b) using pliers, remove the spring of the automatic regulator lever. — special grease for brake mechanisms.

Diagnostics of parts 1. Check the dismantled parts for wear, rust and damage. 2. Check the thickness of the brake pads of the Toyota Carina. Minimum allowable 1.0 mm Nominal thickness: 2wd 4.0 mm 4wd 5.0 mm If the lining thickness is less than the minimum or they show uneven wear, replace the brake pads. Note: If any brake pad needs to be replaced, replace all rear brake pads. 3. Check the inner diameter of the brake drum. Nominal diameter: 2wd 200.0 mm 4wd 228.6 mm Maximum allowable: 2wd 201.0 mm 4wd 230.6 mm If the drum is worn or damaged, it can be machined to the maximum allowable inside diameter. 4. Check the tightness of the connection of the brake shoe lining to the drum. If contact between the working surfaces is poor, replace the brake pads. Installation Note: Install the parts as shown in the corresponding figure. Front 4" Rear drum brakes of Toyota Carina 4wd. 1 — pad fasteners, 2 — service hole plug, 3 — bleeder cap, 4 — bleeder, 5 — spring, 6 — boot, 7 — piston, 8 — cuff, 9 — wheel brake cylinder, 10 — thrust ring, 11 - automatic regulator lever, 12 - parking brake lever, 13 - adjusting washer, 14 - spring, 15 - inspection hole plug, 16 - brake pad, 17 - spring seat, 18 - spring, 19 - automatic regulator cushion, 20 - automatic regulator screw regulator, 21 — return spring, 22 — fixing spring, 23 — brake drum. Note: when mounting the parts indicated by the arrows, apply: - a special grease that does not damage the rubber, F3 - a special grease for brake mechanisms.

1. Apply a special grease that does not damage the rubber to the following parts: - two cuffs; — two pistons; - two anthers. 2. Assemble the wheel brake cylinder. a) install two new cuffs. b) install the spring and 2 pistons into the cylinder. Make sure the piston flanges are facing inward. c) install 2 boots. 3. Place the wheel brake cylinder on the brake shield and tighten the 2 bolts. Tightening torque 10 N m 4. Using special tools, connect the brake pipe to the wheel brake cylinder. Tightening torque 15 Nm 5. Apply high-temperature grease to the following parts: a) contact surfaces of the brake pad and brake shield. c) Automatic regulator bolt.

b) the contact surface of the retaining bar and the brake pad. . ical regulator and brake pad. 6. Using a feeler gauge, check the gap between the brake pad and the lever, as shown in the figure. Nominal gap 0-0.35 mm Gap If the gap does not correspond to the nominal one, then select a washer of the required thickness. Adjusting washers are available in thicknesses of 0.2; 0.3; 0.4; 0.5; 0.6 and 0.9 mm. 7. If necessary, replace the adjusting washer. a) remove the parking brake lever and install the selected washer. b) install the parking brake lever and a new thrust ring. c) install the automatic regulator lever and a new thrust ring. 8. Install the automatic gearbox and rear block. a) using pliers, connect the parking brake cable to the lever. b) install the gearbox and return spring. c) install the spring of the automatic regulator lever.

d) install the rear brake shoe with one end into the brake cylinder and the other end behind the retaining bar. e) Using special tools, install the holder, spring seats and holder spring. Attention; Do not allow oil or grease to penetrate the working surfaces of the pads and drum. 9. Installation of the front brake pad of a Toyota Carina.

a) Place the mounting spring between the rear and front brake pads. b) install the front brake shoe with one end into the brake cylinder and automatic adjuster, and the other end behind the retaining bar. Attention: do not allow oil or grease to penetrate the working surfaces of the pads and drum. c) using special tools, install the spring fasteners, spring seats and holder spring. d) using special tools, connect the return spring. 10. Diagnostics of the operation of the device for automatically adjusting the gap between the pads and the drum. a) move the parking brake lever up and down. Make sure the automatic gearbox is working. If the automatic gearbox does not work, check that the rear brakes are assembled correctly. b) set the minimum possible length of the automatic regulator. c) install the brake drum. d) tighten the parking brake lever all the way until you hear the ratchet click. 11. Diagnostics of the gap between the brake pads and the drum. a) remove the brake drum. b) measure the inner diameter of the drum and the diameter formed by the brake pads. Check the ratio of the resulting diameter difference to the nominal gap. Nominal gap 0.6 mm If the gap between the linings and the drum does not correspond to the nominal one, check the parking brake system. 12. Install the brake drum. 13. Place the rear wheel of the Toyota Carina. 14. Fill the container with brake fluid and bleed the brake system. 15. Check for leaks.

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coming

Replacing Rear Brake Pads Toyota Karina E

To replace, we will need: a can, a jack, a flat-head screwdriver, a wrench, pliers (preferably 3.5 pcs.) and a bolt.

First of all, the machine must be placed on a level surface so that it cannot slide without assistance. Don't use the handbrake, only park.

Under the front wheel, front and rear, slide the lugs such as pebbles (those who don't know where we change the linings, i.e. if we change the linings on the right, place the latch on the left and then change)

Now unscrew the wheel nuts

We jack up the car. To prevent the car from sitting on the jack during the shift (as it is not a stable support), I advise you to move bricks under the car.

There are ribs (kind of like hard ribs) protruding from the bottom, so I put bricks underneath them.

Later, I lower the car so that it rests on the bricks (unfortunately, I do not remove the jack one hundred percent, this will provide additional support), now there is no fear that the car will fall.

Unscrew the nuts completely and remove the wheel. Now you need to remove the drum. We need a bolt for this. Knitted with M8 thread

Screw the bolt into at least one of the 2 holes in the drum. To twist it, we need a wrench. I was 12 years old, but it depends on what bolt you have.

We twist it until the drum is noticeably moved away from the backing plate (the round bowl that sits behind the drum and is attached to the tire that is left for our customer to use the drum brakes on).

Now unscrew the bolt (otherwise the drum will not be removed due to skew), if the drum is not removed, then screw the bolt into the 2nd hole. After removing the drum, the bolt (if it is still screwed in) can be unscrewed immediately, then it simply will not be useful.

We see the following image:

Now you need to remove the spacer spring (the spacer is surrounded by a reddish color and the spring engagement points are green).

This is easier to do where spring is sticking out. For the right side it is on the left (if you are looking at the brake mechanism), for the left side. on the right (this is a must if you are looking for a brake mechanism). I removed the correct pads.

To unscrew the spring, clamp it with pliers as shown in the picture. Then pull the spring (using pliers) in the direction indicated by the arrow. When the spring moves away from the block (as in the picture), we pull it towards us, but do not allow it to be compressed again until we pull it out of the hole.

Then return the spring to its compressed state without releasing it from the pliers (if you drop it, it will work and can destroy the piston rack). On the other hand, it is already deflected simply because it can already hang freely.

Now remove the pads.

Let's take a closer look at:

Remove the lock washer, of course, with your own hands. To begin, press your finger (on the back of the platter) into the rod where the spring and switch washer are held. On the washer we find a gap (in the photo above the reddish rectangle).

It is necessary to hold the rod by turning the washer 90 degrees so that the protrusions of the connecting rod fall into the groove of the washer. If done correctly, the washer and spring will simply be removed. We put them aside (we don’t throw them on the ground, because you can simply trample, as you know, a very important detail).

GT (Garage Themes) Replacement rear wheel brake pads for Toyota Karina E

Replacing rear wheel brake pads on Toyota Karina AT 170

replacing drum brake pads for Toyota Carina 210 case. Subscribe how! Ask.

This is the core. However, a spring and a washer. In the same way, remove the latch from block 2. All pads can be removed. Such a spring is intertwined at the bottom

Removing the spacers doesn't bother her, unfortunately she might just lose it so we snap her off.

Now one of the gaskets is simply not holding up. Let's see if there is such a spring on the last block

and such an expanding plate. These springs and plates are combined with a gear on a spacer. This wheel is a form of mechanism for routing wiring.

If none of these exist (and when I took the spacers, I didn't have any), then you need to rearrange everything. There are no obstacles here. Disconnect the spring from the plate and circle and remove the plate from the pin (the rod it sits on).

In the same way, we put everything on the last block. Our client has different gaskets, the gaskets for the right side are different from the gaskets for the left, so before installing the plate you need to make sure that it actually fits the block.

Now the next reason. block. It is still attached to the parking brake cable. To disconnect it from the cable, you need to hold the block with one hand and compress the spring with the other in the direction of the reddish arrow.

When the spring is sufficiently tensioned, turn the lever in the direction of the green arrow and remove the cable. Here is the cable itself without the block. But the block.

Red circular lever. It must also be moved to the last block (if it is not on its surface). we turn the block over and there we see something like a washer that requires a lever pin

Unscrew it with a screwdriver and remove it. Move the lever to the new block and place the washer. To prevent it from falling, clamp it with pliers.

Now we are installing new blocks in this area. First, we catch the parking brake cable. He clings to the same principle that leaves him. Regarding the lever, the cable should be positioned as follows:

Unfortunately, the spring should not fit into the groove as in the photo, otherwise future installation will be difficult. The spring should be positioned as follows:

Reinstall this block. The rod holder must fit into the hole opposite which this notch is located on the block:

You simply can't pinch the sink with your fingers, so we pinch it with pliers. Holding the rod at the back (as in the removal process), we place the spring at this address, then put on the washer (this will take some effort) and turn it (only this, the rod must remain stationary) 90 degrees, so that the rod is secured in the recess.

Now pick up the spring from below, connect it to the second block and install the spring as follows.

Spring will be slightly above this limiter; if it is in front of him, the spikes will simply jam. The second block is fixed similarly to the first.

Now install the spacer. First of all, you need to twist it to its shortest length. The thread here is upside down, so to twist it you need to twist it counterclockwise rather than clockwise. The sleeve is installed strictly in accordance with certain physiological standards

During installation, the green marking should be on the dream lever marked with a green circle, the reddish mark with the reddish circle, the blue one with the blue one, and the projection marked with purple should be behind the block.

Now we will connect the bushing to the unfamiliar reddish spring. Make sure the gaskets fit into the grooves on the pistons (green ovals). Now we are catching spring from the 2nd side.

Place your thumb on the block (as in the photo), grip the spring with pliers (same as in the removal process) and begin to stretch until you are in front of the hole (surrounded by a reddish color). We connect the spring to the block and many installations are complete.

Now you need to spread the pads. Tighten the expansion plate tab with pliers and lower it down. This plate rests on the gear on the hub, preventing it from spinning.

Rotate the center so that the indentation on its surface is opposite the gear (thumbnail image below)

Using pliers (as pictured) or a flathead screwdriver, we rotate the gear (remember the threads are reversed) until the pads are sufficiently separated.

This will be enough when the drum is firmly placed on the pads. You must remember to return the entry. It should not remain in this form. Therefore, it should be set to yes. At the same time, it is possible to check the shelves, for example, my leak

That's it, put the drum in place, secure the wheel. Do not forget that the nuts need to be turned crosswise, as in the photo

Replacing rear brake pads on Toyota Karina AT 170

A video on replacing rear brake pads on a Toyota Karine AT-170 was filmed for the Drive 2.ru website at the request of a subscriber. In principle, replacing pads is no different from most domestically produced cars.

Text version

What do they consist of and so classic: Drum brake and so what does it consist of? Well, the first is the brake drum, which means to remove the brake. The drum on the car, we have two holes here for a bolt, bolt or 8, fire, well, it doesn’t matter now.

I won’t use it; the pads are very worn out. In principle, the brake drum can be removed quite simply, but if the brake drum does not give in, then here it is elementary:

Two bolts are screwed in with a wrench, slowly tighten one then 2 and the drum begins to slowly slide, if that doesn’t work, you can use a wooden hammer! We rolled the sticks, tap somehow to loosen it, and in principle it should come off, so we remove the drum itself and inspect it. And we see that, in principle, it’s intact, so let’s publish to the camera such a shiny strip is a mark from braking.

And basically what we see is a classic drum beat.

Let's now look at the brake and see what it consists of and I'll show you with my fingers.

How to take it apart in what order and in what order. Assemble and so the first part is this, we have the rear wheel hub with four studs on it. How to strengthen the wheel brake cylinder right left upper tension block.

The spring is the lower tension spring, the guide bar, it also plays a role here, there is such a wheel, carefully pry it off with a screwdriver. Tighten it or spread it short if necessary, also spring the parking brake bar and the pad column and dial the guide.

Spring and so should we replace the brake pads in what order and most importantly, all this quickly. What we need to do is not what we need first: Remove the parking brake spring, the spring that secures the parking brake bar.

And the block is unfastened, then unfasten the upper guide spring and the lower guide spring.

We disassembled and on this side, in exactly the same way, all the blocks were then completely freed from the blocks. Either you disconnect it at the bottom then, or you disconnect it from the block here at the bottom. Don't you appreciate the handbrake cable, not catching it?

I advise you not to pick him up because it’s for the Democrats and put him in his place, just create and block? Boat to the side, remove the lock, this lock, push the piston back 100, take a new block, install it and fix it. And you assemble it in this order, that is, you put the block in the groove of the cylinder.