Toyota Corolla crankshaft oil seals from 2013

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CV joint selection

Original components cost from 16,000 rubles (for an outer CV joint). The internal one costs slightly less. If you want to replace the outer CV joint with an original part, purchase components with article number 4346009R20, 4346009R30.

If your budget is somewhat limited, you can purchase similar parts at a more affordable price. Let's look at the most popular options for choosing a CV joint for a Toyota Corolla.

As it became clear from the summary table, the cost of non-original parts is much less. At the same time, their quality is in no way inferior to the original ones. The main thing is that the components you purchase are fully suitable for the car. Don't forget to check the article numbers so as not to stumble upon a Chinese counterfeit.

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Outer and inner CV joint

A CV joint is a joint that is responsible for transmitting torque at different angles. The main task of the part is to transmit torque to the wheels of the vehicle. This is a consumable that wears out quickly and requires frequent replacement. If the rubber does not cover the hinges tightly enough, the lubricant will not stay inside. The service life of the CV joint will be noticeably reduced.

When the rubber band breaks, not only does the lubricant quickly run out, but dust and dirt also gets inside the part. This leads to increased wear levels. In this case, the part will have to be completely replaced.

However, if the rubber band broke recently, you can simply purchase a repair kit and replace it yourself. Be sure to polish, lubricate and wash the part before installing a new rubber band.

Incorrect operation of the CV joint can cause problems with the front wheels, or more precisely, with their drive. The original CV joint is quite durable, and damage is caused by failed boots.

If you feel that the car is vibrating when moving, the cause of the problem lies in the deformation of the shaft, wear of the external drive joints or wear of the rollers of the internal drive joint.

If lubricant leaks are detected, you need to tighten the clamps or replace damaged boots. If your car pulls sideways, you also need to replace the CV joint. The reason lies in the fact that the race of the inner (in some cases, outer) CV joint is worn out or severely damaged.

The limiting wear can be called knocking on corners. In this case, the problem can only be solved by completely replacing the CV joint.

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Replacing the outer and inner CV joints on a Corolla 120

Replacing a part is quite problematic, so it is better to check its condition yourself in advance. If dust, dirt or water gets into the CV joint, it can fail even on a new car. Solid anthers protect against this well. In some cases, it is necessary to replace the grenade or boot specifically.

To work, you need to purchase several tools that allow you to quickly remove all fasteners. You will need to prepare a hammer, a hacksaw, pliers, a flat head screwdriver, and a circlip puller.

• Remove the front wheel drive. Before the operation, it is advisable to drain the oil from the gearbox to avoid leakage.
• Squeezing the drive in a vice, we disassemble the external grenades. Do not forget that the entire input shaft must be pulled out completely from the box.
• Getting rid of the wheel. To do this, unscrew the hub nut using a 30mm socket. Then unscrew the ball joint from the lower floor. We use the seventeen key for this.
• We disconnect the stabilizer bar link and remove the drive with the external link. Turn the steering wheel and tap the axle with a hammer, then remove the drive from the box and the axle from the hub.
• If you are replacing the outer STRUS, it is not necessary to remove the inner grenade. You can simply remove the clamp securing the inner boot.
• Now pull out the tripod shaft. Use a screwdriver to press out the small boot clamp. Do not forget that it is impossible to reinstall it - you need to purchase a new one.
• To remove the STRUS, you will need to install a puller. We fasten it securely.
• We remove the STRUS by “shaking” the engine several times. We remove the anthers, dismantle the retaining ring and knock it off the shaft.
• We wash all parts from oil and grease. Re-lubricate the hinges. We install the new STRUS in place of the old one. After replacing the parts, we assemble everything in the reverse order.

We check the functionality of the new parts. This completes the process of changing the STRUS to a Toyota Corolla 120. If you doubt that you can replace the part yourself, it is better to contact specialists in this field. Of course, the services of a car dealership are quite expensive, but by using them, you receive a guarantee that the entire mechanism is working properly.

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Seal selection

Purchasing oil seals to replace them is a fairly simple task that does not require special knowledge. You can purchase original components from Toyota. The article number for them is 9031628003. Don't forget to check it before purchasing. The most popular oil seal production companies among car owners are:

Oil seals are an inexpensive consumable that needs to be changed quite often. In this case, overpaying for original components is irrational. You can safely purchase seals using high-quality THO or FEBEST.

All analogues of oil seals are made of high-quality rubber and do not allow any technical fluids to pass through. Therefore, you should not be afraid that the internal parts will rust from grease or oil.

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Replacing the rear crankshaft oil seal

1 To perform this procedure, the gearbox must be removed from the vehicle (see Chapter 7A or 7B). Remove the flywheel/faceplate as described in paragraph 14.

2 The rear crankshaft oil seal can be replaced without removing the oil pan and oil seal housing, however, using this method is not recommended, since when removing and installing the oil seal there is a high probability of damage to the crankshaft and oil seal seat, as well as damage to the oil seal itself. If you want to try, carefully pry the oil seal with a screwdriver and pull it out of the mounting hole (see Fig. 15.2)

Rice. 15.2. Carefully pry the old oil seal with a screwdriver and pull it out of the mounting hole.

Wipe the oil seal seat clean and use sandpaper to remove any burrs that could damage it prematurely. Lubricate the working edges of the new oil seal and the crankshaft journal with multi-purpose grease. Carefully place the oil seal onto the crankshaft with the working edges facing inward. Using a piece of metal pipe or a suitable head with an outer diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the mounting hole, using it as a mandrel, evenly press the oil seal into the mounting hole to the depth noted during removal. Be careful—the seal lip is very hard and can be easily damaged during installation. Wash off all traces of oil. Install the flywheel/faceplate as described in paragraph 14.

3 The next method is much preferable, but its use requires removing the engine oil pan (see paragraph 12) and the oil seal housing.

4 After removing the oil pan from the engine cylinder block, unscrew the oil seal housing bolts and remove the housing. Remove all traces of the old gasket.

5 Place the oil seal body on wooden blocks and use a screwdriver and hammer to knock out the old oil seal from the back side (see Fig. 15.5).

Rice. 15.5. Place the body together with the oil seal on wooden blocks and knock out the oil seal from the inside

6 Press the new oil seal into the body using a block of wood or a piece of pipe whose outer diameter is slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the oil seal (see Fig. 15.6). Be careful not to damage the oil seal in the mounting hole when installing.

Rice. 15.6. Press the new oil seal into the body using a block of wood or a piece of pipe of the appropriate diameter.

7 Lubricate the crankshaft journal and seal lip with multi-purpose grease. Place a new gasket on the cylinder block.

8 Slowly and carefully slide the oil seal onto the crankshaft journal, using a smooth object such as a wrench extension to help you.

9 Screw in and tighten the bolts to the torque specified in the Specifications. The bottom edge of the gland body mating flange should not protrude beyond the edge of the block mating flange (pan guide).

10 All subsequent operations are performed in the reverse order of removal.