How to change the wheel bearing on a Toyota Corolla? - instructions, video.

4285 Apr 20

Toyota Corolla cars are highly reliable. However, even these undeniably reliable cars can fail. For example, grinding and noise appears in the places where the wheels of the vehicle are located. You cannot be negligent about the occurrence of a malfunction: if you ignore the “symptoms” (and the cause of the noise can be both stones and worn brake pads), then you can “run into” more serious problems. In addition, the noise may be caused by the wheel bearing and must be replaced.

It is worth noting that the front hub bearing is changed in exactly the same way as the rear hub, since the design of this device on Toyota Corolla 150, 110, 121, 120 cars is absolutely identical both front and rear.

Replacing a Toyota Corolla wheel bearing

Toyota Corolla cars are highly reliable. However, even these undeniably reliable cars can fail. For example, grinding and noise appears in the places where the wheels of the vehicle are located. You cannot be negligent about the occurrence of a malfunction: if you ignore the “symptoms” (and the cause of the noise can be both stones and worn brake pads), then you can “run into” more serious problems. In addition, the noise may be caused by the wheel bearing and must be replaced.

It is worth noting that the front hub bearing is changed in exactly the same way as the rear hub, since the design of this device on Toyota Corolla 150, 110, 121, 120 cars is absolutely identical both front and rear.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing parts

Place your car on a level surface.

“Tear off” the wheel bolts while the car is standing on the ground.

Install wheel chocks on both sides.

Place your spare tire under the side member for insurance. This must be done for safety reasons to prevent the car from sliding off the jack.

In order to unscrew the hub nut, you need to remove the cotter pin. But before that, I recommend spraying everything with Vedashka. This will make it easier for you to remove it.

Using a screwdriver, secure the brake disc.

Take head 0 and unscrew the hub nut.

Unscrew the bolts (2 pieces) that secure the caliper. We move it to the side and secure it with wire so that it does not interfere.

Using head 2, we dismantle the steering rods.

Using a wrench and socket 9, unscrew the steering knuckle.

We take out the steering knuckle together with the front wheel bearing.

Next, you need to remove the hub axle, which is located in the steering knuckle. To do this, we use a metal mandrel and a hammer.

Using round-nose pliers, remove the retaining ring.

TOYOTA front wheel bearing replacement

Next, we clamp the fist with the mandrel in a vice and squeeze out the bearing race.

It is possible that the ring will remain on the hub axis.

We take an angle grinder (grinder) and make a transverse cut of several millimeters. We hit it hard with a hammer and the clip shatters into pieces.

We clean the bearing seat from dirt and rust. Wash with diesel fuel or kerosene. Wipe dry with a cloth.

We place the part vertically and carefully drive the bearing 10 mm through a rubber gasket or a wooden plank. We make sure that there is no distortion.

We put everything in a vice and press the product until it stops. Install the retaining ring.

Next, the installation process is exactly the same as for dismantling only in the reverse order.

Owners of a Toyota Corolla model 150, please note some differences in bearing replacement than indicated above.

In this model, the bearing changes along with the hub.

So you have completed the difficult task of replacing the front bearing on a TOYOTA COROLLA.

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Not such a difficult task if you use this article.

Now I would like to give you some practical tips, the use of which will simplify the task of repairing the hub.

We replace the bearing on the front hub of Toyota Corolla in the body 20 and 50

In this article you will learn how to replace wheel bearing on a Toyota Corolla .

Japanese car manufacturers have always been distinguished by the quality of their products.

The front wheel bearing can last up to 100,000 km.

What causes a wheel bearing malfunction in Toyota Corolla E120–E150

Reasons why this element fails earlier:

  • they drove the car aggressively, without taking into account the quality of the road;
  • Water got under the seal and washed away the lubricant;
  • the car was constantly overloaded.

Operation without overload, careful driving, and regular inspections will extend the service life of the part.

How to determine if a car bearing is failing

The most obvious sign: the wheel begins to emit a constant hum and other extraneous sounds while driving. To clearly determine whether a wheel bearing is working or not, you need to:

  • lift the car with a jack;
  • hang out the wheel;
  • turn on the transmission;
  • lightly press the gas pedal.

If you hear obvious noise in the area of ​​the axis, it’s time to change the part.

Replacing the wheel bearing on a Toyota Corolla

After you have managed to unscrew the two bolts, carefully and carefully remove the caliper and set it aside. The brake pads should also be removed and set aside for a while.

Toyota Corolla has good pads that can not wear out for many years, which is a definite plus. You will notice how much space is freed up for future work.

Replacement of the wheel bearing will proceed more easily at this stage. In addition, the path to the brake discs will be open. Replacing a wheel bearing cannot be done without a puller.

With its help, the ball joint is pressed out. Then simply remove the brake disc.

Preparing for DIY repairs

I advise you to do this - select tools and accessories.

- a set of main keys and sockets. Please note that there is a head of 0;

It doesn't matter if you don't have a torque wrench.

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When tightening bolts and nuts with a regular wrench, tighten them firmly until they stop and then release them, turning the wrench 20 degrees in the opposite direction.

And you don't need a torque wrench.

It is advisable, but not at all necessary, to view a schematic sketch or drawing of the hub.

Front wheel bearing design for Toyota Corolla 2008-2013

Below is a diagram of the assembly layout for models E140, E150 with designations of elements:

  • 43501N – hub nut;
  • 46512 – brake disc;
  • 43501D – disk mounting bolts;
  • 43501С – hub assembly;
  • 48-02 – steering knuckle;
  • 91552-L1250 – knuckle bolt;
  • 43-02; - spherical bearing;

The design of the unit in the previous generation Corolla was slightly different:

  • 43501H – hub nut;
  • 43512 – brake disc;
  • 43501С – hub;
  • 48-02 – steering knuckle;
  • 43501E — front wheel bearings for Toyota Corolla;
  • 43501G – retaining ring;
  • 43-02 – ball;

During the process, part number 43501 must be replaced.

The layout of the unit is not tied to the generation of the car. The manufacturer began installing hub assemblies with ball bearings on cars starting in 2012-2013. If your car was produced earlier, the layout probably corresponds to the second scheme, like the E120 2000-2008. Instructions for replacing the part in this article are presented for two variants of the unit design.

Description of GSP company:

GSP products are supplied to more than 53 countries around the world. In 2002, GSP could offer its products to more than 638 models, including cars made in Japan, America, Korea and Europe. GSP is a company that represents Chinese products as high quality products. In 2003, GSP began successful and close cooperation with representatives of other countries. The philosophy of cooperation is based on a good price-quality ratio of products, and is supported by a long warranty period.

Structural differences between generations

The wheel bearing design is slightly different in the Toyota Corolla 2008–2013 and in the same car of the previous generation. However, the overall layout of the unit is not related to the generation of the machine. Since 2012–2013, he has been installing hub assemblies with ball bearings. Before this, the layout was often different - like the E120, released in 2000-2008.

How to remove a wheel bearing and replace it

You will need a jack, a minus screwdriver, a hammer, lubricant, a standard set of keys, and a universal puller. You need to do the following:

  • fix the car on a lift and hang the problem wheel;
  • remove the decorative cap;
  • press the brake, tear off the central fastener;
  • unscrew the wheel fasteners and tear it off;
  • fix the brake disc with a screwdriver;
  • start unscrewing the axial fastening nut (head 30);
  • unscrew the bolts with a 17mm wrench that hold the caliper;
  • remove it to the side and secure it;

The brake disc can now be removed. Required:

  • unscrew the steering rods (head 22);
  • remove the special cotter pin;
  • unscrew the bolt with a 17 key;
  • remove the ABS sensor;
  • disconnect the steering knuckle (head 19 and key);
  • Remove the wheel bearing with the steering knuckle.

After this, the replacement process itself begins. Necessary:

  • carefully knock out the hub axle from the rotary wheel - a pipe of the required diameter will do;
  • pry it up with a screwdriver and remove the retaining ring;
  • install a spacer under the press - the diameter is slightly smaller than the outer ring;
  • place a fist with a ball bearing on top;
  • press the outer race out of the fist.

If you are unable to remove the ring, you can use a grinder to carefully cut it and then knock the ring off with a chisel. It is important not to damage the bearing itself.

Then it is important to clean the landing site for the new unit, remove dirt and dust. To make installation easier, the new element is treated with engine oil. Then the installation itself is carried out. Need to:

  • place a new part in the seat;
  • press it in, and then put the old unit on top to press it in until it stops;
  • place the hub under the press, place a fist on top and press the parts together;
  • install the retaining ring.

During installation, the operations that were performed during disassembly are repeated in reverse order.

How to replace with a puller, without a press

If the ball bearing is old, it is removed mechanically without using a press. Some motorists make a suitable puller themselves. To do this, you need a long bolt with nuts - it is threaded into the hole in the fist. Old ball bearing races are suitable for mandrels.

Do not strike during installation. When trying to press a part with a hammer, it is easy to warp it - as a result, the service life will be greatly reduced.

Differences when replacing ball bearings between different models

The layout of the E120–E140 models, which were produced in 2000–2014, is different. The ball bearing is not pressed out - it is installed assembled with the hub. You need to do the following:

  • unscrew the nuts and remove the wheel;
  • unscrew the bolts that hold the caliper;
  • remove the brake disc;
  • unscrew the hub nut;
  • remove the steering knuckle bolts;
  • remove the hub assembly;
  • Install the new part by tightening the bolts.

Front wheel bearing

Since last summer, I have already replaced the right front wheel bearing 4 times; after replacement, after 2-3 thousand it begins to hum. What disables it for me, what do you think? I installed the original the first 2 times, the analogue the next 2 times. The result is the same.

There are 37 replies to this topic

Keep track of those who change your bearings. These workers can deliver without washing and lubrication. They come in a preservative (to prevent rust), rinse in kerosene and lubricate generously. the preservative does not last long..)))

Should the hum be constant? On my left side, a rhythmic noise and vibration appears at a speed of 70-80 km/h. The car was involved in an accident - it was hit on the right, but there I installed a contract for the hub. And also, when your backside is weak with the steering wheel turned off, a cracking or crunching sound appears about 4 times, what could it be?

Jin549 writes: Should the hum be constant? On my left side, a rhythmic noise and vibration appears at a speed of 70-80 km/h. The car was involved in an accident - it was hit on the right, but there I installed a contract for the hub. And also, when the back is weak with the steering wheel turned off, a cracking or crunching sound appears about 4 times, what could it be?

The text of the message was changed by the user on October 21, 2021 at 21:34:37

and the cyclical hum, also from the CV joint?

We have 1500 birches for each side. So it turns out, 3000. Same problem. Changed it three times. The first two times lasted for a year. I went on vacation for the third time and drove 3200 km. A howl appeared. So I can’t understand. What's the matter. Why do they fail?

I've already changed the 5th! ))) it’s a matter of lubrication! I was the last one to open a used one, it’s not there! One row is greased, and the second is almost dry and the balls are eaten on one side. I bought a new one and opened it. exactly one row in the grease. the other is dry. There is grease in the middle. But in a used one, it was still lying there brand new) in short, I wiped off this shit, washed it with gasoline and stuffed it with lithol 24. So far everything is fine. Change the lubricant. This is their business. Less lubrication means more bearings are purchased. But when opening it, carefully pry it up with a screwdriver so as not to bend the edge of the inner clip. It is pressed against the bearing seal, it must be even, otherwise water and dirt will get in. It is not possible to drag it. The hub rests on a grenade. Tighten by hand only with a wrench. Without pipes and amplifiers of any kind. One handshake was enough for me. They unscrewed it with difficulty using a 2 meter pipe! I'm changing it myself now. Instead of a press there are bolts and washers. I used to press sales blocks with him on a Muscovite)

Jack up the car, spin the wheel) noise, if there is a bearing. Check the play. The crunch is already if the bearing is generally an ass. So the wheel will come off. Or the grenade is screwed. It crunches when turning. Check the anthers. Maybe they are not on grenades)

Article number and price of branded rear wheel bearings for Toyota Corolla 150 and their analogues

Replacing the rear wheel bearing also requires purchasing a complete hub, since the unit is non-separable. Any attempts to press in a new bearing lead to its rapid failure and can also cause malfunctions of the ABS system. The original rear hub has part number 42450-12090. Its price is 13-19 thousand rubles.

Spare parts are available for sale from car dismantling yards. Since the Toyota Corolla 150 rear hub is not a reliable unit, finding a good used part is quite problematic. The cost of supported hubs starts from 1600 rubles. Their residual life is extremely low and the bearing can hum after a couple of thousand km.

In addition to branded products, analogues from third-party manufacturers can be used to replace the rear hub. Recommended brands, the quality and performance characteristics of which are not inferior to the original, are shown in the table below.

Table - The best alternatives to the original rear hub of the Corolla 150

Company manufacturerArticle numberApproximate cost, thousand rubles
SATST42450120902-3
Nipparts N4712080 3-5N47120803-5
Koyo3DACF027F11FS5-71
MasumaMW115084-8
Blue PrintADT383902.5-5.5

How to determine a faulty front wheel bearing on a Toyota Corolla 120 - 150

This unit is quite reliable and, with proper operation, can last quite a long time. But there are reasons why repairs will be required earlier:

  • aggressive driving without taking into account the road surface;
  • water getting under the seal and washing out the lubricant;
  • driving with overload;

Signs that your car will soon need a new bearing may be:

  • presence of a constant hum in the area of ​​the front wheel.

Diagnosing a faulty Toyota Corolla front wheel bearing is quite simple:

  • We jack up the car, hang out the wheel, engage the gear and lightly press the gas pedal. If a distinct noise is heard in the area of ​​the axis, then the unit needs repair.

Typical noise test near a rack:

How the front wheel bearing of a Toyota Corolla 150 hums:

Characteristic noise of a ball bearing on a Toyota Corolla E120:

The Toyota Corolla is a fairly reliable car, but despite this, its chassis requires repair over time.

For example, extraneous noise may appear in the area of ​​the wheels, and if the cause of this noise is not eliminated in time, then you may end up with serious problems associated with the repair of the entire suspension as a whole.

One of the most common reasons why an extraneous knock or noise may be heard is a failed Toyota Corolla wheel bearing.

Installation Features

Corolla wheel bearing , use an attachment and a hydraulic press. In this case, the risks associated with damage to the seat will be minimal. Using this device, press in the new bearing. Do not forget to first clean the seat from dirt and rust, if any.

In rare cases, both bearings fail at the same time. Usually the right side is affected first. This is explained by the fact that it is more susceptible to roadside unevenness. It is better to change all paired parts at the same time. When purchasing, give preference to original spare parts over licensed ones. The price difference is not comparable to Japanese quality.

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The process of replacing the rear wheel bearing on a Corolla 150

Replacement of the rear wheel bearing is carried out together with the hub, since the unit is non-separable. Instructions are given below.

  • Engage first gear in case of manual transmission or move the selector to “parking” mode if automatic transmission is installed.
  • Place wheel chocks.

Regular qualified maintenance will allow you to constantly maintain such qualities as performance, safety and reliability that the designers incorporated into your Toyota Corolla car. This will also help you maximize the value of your investment in the car.

1 NORMAL/HOUR — 1000 rub.

* The cost of repair work for Toyota Corolla is indicated without taking into account the cost of used spare parts from Relevance - 07/25/2018.

Pros and cons of installing a part in a car service

So, replacing the wheel bearing on Toyota Corolla 120 and 150 body cars is a process that requires not only physical strength, but also accuracy. Otherwise, instead of fixing the problem, you can make the problem even worse. This process can also be performed in a service center, the advantage of this is a 100% guaranteed result, as well as the opportunity not to think about how to replace the wheel bearing on a Toyota Corolla .

The disadvantages include the high cost of the work carried out, as well as a fairly long time (the part is replaced within a few hours), a car with such a breakdown can sit in the service for several days. If the disadvantages still outweigh the advantages, then the spare part should be changed yourself.

It is also important to remember about the age of the car; for example, models produced in 2008 are primarily susceptible to wear of the wheel bearing (in fact, this part is a replaceable consumable).

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