Toyota rav4 from 2008, front wheel hub removal instructions online

On a 2011 Toyota RAV4, 2-liter engine, manual, front-wheel drive, the front left bearing on the hub began to hum at a mileage of 160,000 kilometers. This car has a wheel bearing integrated with an ABS magnetic ring. Replacing a wheel bearing on a RAV 4 3rd generation is not particularly difficult, but there is no need to be careful. We lift the car, remove the wheel and see how we can unscrew it. In a good way, a reverse hammer is needed here.

We removed the wheel, spray all the threads that we will turn: the drive, the nuts, on the mounting posts, on the steering tip and on the ball joints.

Replacing the wheel bearing on a Toyota RAV4 yourself.

Before removing the drive, we mark the relative position of the gearbox flange with the drive so that during reassembly, they can be correctly aligned according to the marks.
Then the instructions recommend removing the Toyota ABS sensor; it is held in place by a 10 mm bolt to the knuckle. However, if it is seated very tightly, there is a risk of damaging it when removing it.

Therefore, the sensor can be left in place, since it does not interfere with removing the drive, but you just need to act more carefully.

Disconnect the drive from the gearbox and remove it from the hub by lightly tapping it through the spacer. Unscrew the 4 14mm nuts securing the hub to the knuckle; 4 hub holes are just right for access to these nuts.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=aEm6iBbNCvU

After this, remove the hub, as the instructions say. This is not difficult to do on a relatively new car.

Replacing the front wheel bearing in Toyota Rav 4 (3rd generation), photo and video tutorial

If the car is not very fresh, and the hub has never been removed, then it most likely has become stuck, rusted, thereby forming one whole with the fist. Wheel nut After this, loosen the fixing of the entire assembly, which is usually very tight, so you will need an additional lever to remove it. Then remove the wheel itself, along with the brake pads and caliper, and secure it to the suspension spring in a suspended position.

Disconnect and hang the caliper After disassembling the suspension elements, remove the brake disc and press the pivot pin out of the swing arm.

Replacement procedure

Some car owners just need to look at the video and understand how to replace a similar element themselves.

In practice, there is nothing difficult about replacing a wheel bearing. But the main problems for motorists arise precisely because of the lack of a special tool, or due to a lack of experience in carrying out such operations. There are also differences in replacement on different brands and models of cars. Therefore, you should not count on universal instructions for all machines. It’s better to look at the owner’s manual and figure out how to change the front wheel bearing specifically for your vehicle.

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FRONT WHEEL BEARING (43x82x45) DAC FEBEST

Therefore, this malfunction must be eliminated as quickly as possible - on the same day as it was discovered. You can't plan a long trip! But as soon as we release the gas pedal without turning off the gear.

If your hum falls under this description, you urgently need to at least tighten the nut, do not overtighten it. The hum of an out-of-adjustment gearbox cannot be unambiguously described; it varies depending on the degree of misadjustment. But most often this is a hum that is absent when coasting in neutral and appears at the same speeds in both modes, both during tension and during engine braking.

This malfunction is most often suspected by owners of cars with a humming axle and just as often by car service workers. Every day and more than once we have to convince clients that the reason for the hum is not due to adjustment.

Replacing the wheel bearing on a Toyota RAV4 yourself.

A hum when releasing gas is most often due to axial play on the gearbox shank. Perhaps when replacing the bearings, they made a weak tension on them or did not do it at all and now the shank is loose.

Niva car. There was a hum from behind. The hum is constant in any driving mode, increasing with increasing speed and during turns.

Sources:

https://audi-rus.ru/nasha-rabota-service/zamena-perednego-stupichnogo-podshipnika-na-audi-s5 https://starifaeton.ru/info/zamena-perednego-stupichnogo-podshipnika-svoimi/ https ://starifaeton.ru/info/zamena-perednego-stupichnogo-podshipnika-FORD/ https://assortisport.ru/toyota/kak-zamena-stupichnogo-podshipnika-rav-4-2000-goda.php

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Removing the steering knuckle

Let's remove the ball joints together, fixing the brake disc, take a 30-point socket (12-point) and unscrew the drive nut, flare it a little before doing this. We unscrew the caliper with a 17mm head, and also on this side we unscrew the bolt securing the brake hose and the ABS sensor with a 10mm head. Next, remove the caliper and hang it, loosen the steering tip with a 19mm head. hit. We try to loosen the nut. Remove the brake disc and take M8 bolts. The brake disc was removed, then you can make 2-3 blows on the tip, on the trunnion securing the tip.

We unscrew both bolts securing it to the rack with a 22mm head. We unscrew the ball joint from below. Here we have two nuts and one bolt, with a 17mm head. Let's remove the whole thing together with the ball joint, pull out the bolts. We squeeze out the drive and remove the trunnion.

Replacing the front wheel bearing in Toyota Rav 4 (3rd generation), photo and video tutorial

We have a Toyota RAV 4 car under repair, 3rd generation, 2011, mileage 160 thousand km, the front wheel bearing needs to be replaced.
We will show you a detailed photo and video lesson on how to do it yourself in a garage. The front left wheel bearing is noisy. We raise the car, unscrew the wheel, spray all the threaded connections we need with penetrating liquid WD-40, then wait 5 minutes and get to work. We insert a strong screwdriver into the ventilation hole of the brake disc, take a 30-point twelve-sided head and unscrew the drive nut (before this, you should flare it a little).

Using a 17mm socket, unscrew the two caliper bracket fasteners:

Unscrew the brake hose mounting bolt:

Then unscrew the ABS sensor with a 10mm head. Remove the caliper and hang it by the spring. Use a 19mm socket to loosen the steering tip:

We try to “move” the drive nut by applying gentle blows with a hammer:

We remove the brake disc, since it was stuck to us and did not want to be removed using standard methods, we had to screw M8 bolts into special holes, tighten each of them in turn several turns until the brake disc comes off its seat:

Now you can apply two or three sharp blows to the trunnion of the tip:

Using a 22mm socket, unscrew both bolts securing the rack:

We unscrew the ball joint from below, there we have two nuts and one bolt, for this we use a 17 socket:

We pull out the bolts securing the rack, “squeeze out” the drive and remove the axle. At the back, use a 17mm head to unscrew the 4 bolts:

After this, you can knock out the bearing along with the hub. We do this in weight, through a mandrel, which we use as a head from a set of tools:

We have a new wheel bearing from Zekkert, order number RL-1484, with a magnetic ring for the ABS sensor. We clean the seat, it is convenient to do this with a brush with metal bristles. Then we lubricate it with copper grease so that in the future we will not have problems with parts sticking. We perform assembly in the reverse order; I also recommend lubricating all threaded connections with copper grease.

Replacing the rear wheel bearing of Toyota Corolla 120 - replacing the front and rear hub

We put anti-roll bars under the wheels.

We check for the presence of play. To do this, pull the hub and observe.

We process the nuts that need to be unscrewed with a VD.

Unscrew the hub nuts. If you removed the wheel, we install it back, since it is not possible to unscrew the hub nut without proper support (wheel and handbrake).

We take a powerful socket wrench and a head for it of the required size, and also select a lever from the pipe. The length of the lever must be at least 1 meter. We extend the pipe onto the wrench and tear off the hub nut.

Disconnect the drive from the gearbox. If you cannot remove the ABS sensor, leave the fist on the hub. To do this, you need to remove the drive by unscrewing it near the rear gearbox.

After this you can see the ABS sensor.

Press the hub out of the fist. We insert simple spring ties into the holes and press them against the heads of the knuckle and brake casing bolts. This way the hub can be pressed out relatively easily.

The photo shows where the bolts stop. You need to press against the bolts so as not to bend the casing.

We remove the hub with the outer seal and one of the inner races of the bearing.
Then remove the lock washer.
There is one more inner bearing race left.
The outer race of the bearing remains in the hub.

Now remove the inner race from the hub. The most difficult part is the cone clip, since there is nothing to catch on, and the puller breaks off.

5.1.8 Replacing the front wheel bearing

You will need
keys “17”, “19” (two), “30” screwdriver goatee hammer device with a set of mandrels for pressing bearings Circlip pliers marker

If, when swinging a suspended wheel, play or noise appears while driving, there is a possibility that the hub bearing has failed. The hub is equipped with a double-row ball bearing, which does not require adjustment or lubrication during operation. When the hub is pressed out, the bearing is destroyed. Therefore, press the hub out of the steering knuckle only to replace the bearing.

If there is increased play in the wheel, loosen the hub nut and check its tightening torque. If the fastening is loose, try tightening the nut to the required torque and lock it. If there is no play, the bearing will be able to work for some more time.

Set of mandrels for pressing bearings

To press in the wheel bearing, use the appropriately sized mandrels from the kit. If there are no mandrels, you can use the rings of the old bearing.

Remove the wheel and wheel hub nut cap.

Reinstall the wheel and loosen the hub nut.

Loosen the hub nut. It is tightened with a large torque, so it is recommended to use an extension, such as a piece of pipe.

Remove the front wheel, brake pads and caliper, hanging it on a rope or wire to the front suspension spring (
see subsection 7.1.1. ).
5.

Remove the brake disc (
see subsection 7.1.3. ).
6.

Press the ball joint pin out of the swing arm (
see subsection 6.4. ) and move the steering rod to the side.
7.

Mark the position of the adjusting bolt head on the strut bracket. This will help to approximately maintain wheel camber when installing the strut.

Loosen the nuts on the bolts securing the steering knuckle to the strut.

Remove the two bolts securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle (there are flat and spring washers installed under the bolt heads).

10.

Finally unscrew the two nuts securing the steering knuckle to the strut and remove the bolts.

11.

Finally unscrew the hub nut.

13.

Remove the steering knuckle from the strut bracket and.

14.

. remove it together with the hub from the shank of the outer CV joint.

15.

Holding the steering knuckle in a vice, press it out using a suitable drift.

16.

. hub from the steering knuckle.

17.

If the outer part of the bearing inner race remains on the hub, compress it with a puller. For ease of dismantling, there are two special recesses on the hub.

18.

If it is necessary to replace the outer mud ring, use a drift to knock it off the steering knuckle (you do not need to do this to replace the bearing).

19.

Using a screwdriver, carefully pry off the inner dirt ring to remove it.

20.

Remove the retaining rings from both sides of the steering knuckle.

21.

Having installed the device with the appropriate mandrel, press the bearing out of the knuckle.

22.

Clean the hub from dirt and...

24.

Use a hammer to knock out the damaged wheel studs and press in new ones.

25.

When replacing the steering knuckle, remove the steering arm from it by unscrewing the mounting bolt and install the arm on the new knuckle.

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When is it necessary to replace the wheel bearing and hub?

Under the influence of obsolescence, the hub loses its strength.

The following symptoms suggest a problem:

sudden braking of the vehicle when turning the steering wheel;
the occurrence of an uncharacteristic sound while driving.

Strange sounds indicate a bearing defect.

Replacing the Toyota RAV4 wheel bearing (Toyota RAV4) in St. Petersburg is carried out for these reasons:

sport driving;
low-quality technical fluid;
incorrectly adjusted bearing;
unreliable bearing.

The service technician performs professional work replacing the Toyota RAV4 hub (Toyota RAV4)! We are doing everything necessary to correct this problem. Our craftsmen replace the wheel bearing of Toyota RAV4 (Toyota RAV4) in St. Petersburg. Long-term experience and highly specialized knowledge allow our technical center team to work effectively in the field of auto repair. Our workshops have computer equipment that can be used to reliably replace a wheel bearing in St. Petersburg. The procedure itself is performed using specially developed technology. The strict sequence of the wheel bearing change service increases its quality. For the best results, we use only high-quality spare parts. Accurate selection of components is included in the Toyota RAV4 front bearing replacement service. When searching for new elements, our auto mechanics take into account the characteristics of a particular vehicle. The service for replacing the hub and wheel bearing is carried out with a guarantee.

List of new parts and tools for replacing them

Replacing a front wheel bearing on a VAZ 2114 begins with the purchase by the car enthusiast of the following spare parts:

front wheel bearing (original art. 11180 – 3103020 – 04);
front hub retaining rings (usually included in the repair kit under art. 11180 – 3101800 – 86);
a brand new front hub (art. 11180 - 3103012 - 00), which will be useful if there is excessive wear on the bearing and rotation at the landing site.

To carry out all the work to eliminate this malfunction without damaging other suspension parts, you can use the following set of tools:

tire remover;
set of keys rozhkovo. slip-on type from 12 mm to 24 mm;
socket heads from 12 to 19 mm and wrenches;
special wheel bearing puller;
special remover for control tips;
duckbills for removing retaining rings;
carriage;
Screwdriver Set;
ordinary pliers.

In small personal service workshops they will ask for work from 2500 to 3000 rubles. After reading the summary below, doing the repairs yourself will not cause huge problems for the owner of a VAZ model 2113, 2114 or 2115.

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Steering rack repair

After the assembly has been removed from the car, you can begin to reassemble it. This no longer requires any special working conditions. Enough free space on the table and a set of wrenches and pullers. Procedure:

We remove the clamps that hold the anthers and remove the rubber protective corrugations.
We bend the lock washers at the base of the steering rod. Holding the rod with the key at “22”, unscrew it from the rack. We repeat the same on the other side.
We unscrew the pipelines, having previously marked their location.

In the area where the rods are attached, remove the retaining ring. After a slight shift to the right, remove the restrictive sleeve. We unscrew the fixing nut and remove the spring, washer, valve bushing, guide and gasket. We remove the retaining ring and knock out the control valve. We fix the entire detail. It is best to clamp it in a vice. This will allow you to easily remove the rack, and using a spacer you can knock the seal out of the pipe. We turn the entire mechanism 90 degrees to remove the sliding bearing and lower oil seal, as well as the control valve. All parts that are still suitable for reuse are cleaned and washed. We install a new oil seal and sliding bearing in their places. They need to be pressed in. To do this, it would be useful to use a special press. However, if such a device is not at hand, the parts can be carefully installed by tapping with a hammer. To prevent the upper gearbox seal from leaking, it is necessary to install Teflon rings. To repair steering racks, auto parts stores sell specialized repair kits. We put a rubber gasket on the gear beam

It is important not to damage this oil seal, so we put a protective plastic cap on the toothed part, along which the gasket will slide beyond the teeth. After this, insert the beam into the body and press it in by tapping.

This is how the internal oil seal is installed.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION! It is best to change all rubber and Teflon rings. Before installation, you must first lubricate them with hydraulic fluid.

When the beam is inside the housing, a second oil seal is installed.
The bushing is installed and the retaining ring is hammered in. It must be new.
The control valve and lower bearing are pressed in. The nut is tightened, generously lubricated with sealant, and the rack housing is installed.
A new oil seal, bearing and retaining ring are installed at the place where the rod is attached.
Apply a sufficient amount of thick lubricant to the guide rack seat. The mechanism is inserted into the housing, and a few drops of sealant are applied to the threads of the guide rack cover. After this, the spring is mounted and the lid is screwed until it stops. Next, you need to begin to loosen the fasteners until the control valve begins to rotate by hand with slight force. After this, you can tighten the locknut.
The steering rods are installed in their places and tightened with the specified tightening torque. The parts are lubricated, protective corrugations are put on and the clamps are tightened.
The pipelines are attached and installed on the vehicle in the reverse order.

After installing the mechanism on the machine, the steering system must be pumped and filled with the required amount of hydraulic fluid. After this, the wheels must be adjusted for camber and toe.

How to change the hub and its bearing

We unscrew the 4 bolts with a 17mm head, take it and from here we brazenly knock out the bearing along with the hub. If you take the original Toyota 4355002020, then it will be 4 times more expensive than any normal analogue. Therefore, we will take a new hub not the original, but an analogue of Zekkert RL-1484, this hub comes with a magnetic ring for the ABS sensor and install it. We will lubricate the seating parts so that it will be easier to remove them the next time we dismantle them.

The lubricant will penetrate and it will be a little easier. We lift and knock out the bearing by weight. We clean the seat for the new bearing, lubricate it with copper grease, install the boots and bearing. We put the boot on, insert the hub, and then we’ll talk about aligning it. That's it - the bearing is in place, we reach 85 newton meters and install it.

We bait and tighten, install the sensor in place. After lubricating the hose mounting threads and the hub, install the brake disc and caliper. The caliper was attached, the brake hose fastenings were also attached, and the steering end was also attached. We tighten it.

All that remains is to attach the ball joint and tighten it, after which we install the wheel. That's all - the Rav 4 wheel bearing has been replaced.

Main signs of a part malfunction

The fault must be determined in the garage and on hanging wheels using the following method:

Try a slow rotation. Listen, there may be a slight crunch or knock.
You can try spinning the suspended wheels one at a time at low speed.
This method is for experienced drivers: You need to raise the front side, place a stop under the suspension arm closer to the wheel so that the drive shaft takes its normal working position.
Put the car on the handbrake, press the brake pedal, start the car, put the automatic switch in position D and slowly release the brake pedal. The suspended wheel will rotate, if you hear a hum, then the front hub bearing is faulty.

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Replacing the wheel bearing Toyota RAV4 2007

Removing the old hub from its seat turned out to be the longest stage of the work. To do this, you will need to take the following steps: First, fix the fist in a vice, and then press the hub out of it using a previously prepared drift.

After this, you can remove the inner ring used to protect against dirt by carefully prying it off with a sharpened screwdriver. Immediately after this, you can remove the locking rings located on both sides of the knuckle

Removing the retaining rings Using a suitable mandrel, press the faulty bearing out of the knuckle. We knock out the old bearing. At this point, disassembling the unit to access the bearing can be considered complete.

Installing a new bearing Replacement and subsequent installation of a new bearing product is carried out in the following order: Using a mandrel of the required size, press a new bearing into place of the damaged one with a force applied to the outer plane of the ring from the inside. Bearing for RAV4 Place in place, and then carefully press in both mud rings using a suitable device shaped like a cup or mandrel of the required diameter.

Use the old bearing to press the new one back into place in the steering knuckle in the reverse order described in the previous sections.

So, in this case, the rear right hub was determined. Selecting a spare parts manufacturer The rear hub on second-generation all-wheel drive RAV4s is supplied only assembled, is made as a single element and cannot be disassembled.

Replacing the front wheel bearing TOYOTA CALDINA ET196 / Replacing the wheel bearing

https://youtube.com/watch?v=2JP-5ZstZVQ

Replacement The procedure itself does not raise any special questions - remove the drive, caliper and brake disc and unscrew the 4 nuts securing the hub to the knuckle. In practice, however, we had to tinker a little.

Remove the wheel, pull out the cotter pin and remove the locking cap of the hub nut. Clean the drive shaft threads from rust.

FakeHeader

Then we put the wheel in place, not forgetting to remove the protective cap from it, fix the car and press the brake pedal. If the thread is very rusty, lubricate it and unscrew it in steps so as not to spoil the thread of the nut. Unscrew the 4 nuts 14 securing the drive to the rear axle gearbox. Access to the nuts is convenient; you don’t have to turn the drive. Before removing the drive, we mark the relative position of the drive and the gearbox flange; during assembly, we align the marks.

Next, the instructions recommend removing the ABS sensor; it is attached with a 10mm bolt to the knuckle, but in this case it was seated quite tightly, and when removing there was a risk of damaging it, so the sensor was left in place - it does not interfere with the removal of the drive, we just act carefully.

Replacing the front wheel bearing of RAV 4 (Toyota)

In practice, however, I had to tinker a little.

Replacing the wheel bearing RAV4, AVENSIS, CAMRY 43550-42010 43550-02010

Pressing in the hub After removing the car from the pit or lift, replacing the Toyota hub 4, installing it on the ground, firmly tighten the hub fastening nut, after which all that remains is to lock it and return the dismantled decorative trim to its place. Now the fused structure moves quite freely, we insert a stop between the fist and the hub cage where the screwdriver is inserted in the photo above in order to squeeze out the hub using impact equipment.

More than a million contract and new body parts for foreign cars are in stock.

When installing the brake disc, observe the location of the hole for adjusting the handbrake with the recess on the hub flange. Using a mandrel of the required size, press a new bearing into place of the damaged one with a force applied to the outer plane of the ring from the inside. Disassembling the hub assembly Unscrew the hub nut completely, remove the stop washer, and then move the knuckle back and remove it along with all other parts.

We clean the place where the new hub fits with a scraper. Use the old bearing to press the new one back into place in the steering knuckle in the reverse order described in the previous sections.

Then we put the wheel in place, not forgetting to remove the protective cap from it, fix the car and press the brake pedal. We unscrew the hub nut with a tightening torque of Nm using an extended hex head on If the thread is very rusty, it is necessary to lubricate and unscrew it in steps so as not to spoil the thread of the nut.

Before removing the drive, note the relative position of the drive and the gearbox flange; during assembly, we align the marks. However, as in this case, it fits quite tightly and when removing there is a risk of damaging it, and if the situation occurs, the sensor must be left in place - it does not interfere with removing the drive, just act carefully. We disconnect the drive from the gearbox and remove it from the hub by lightly tapping it through the spacer.

Rear wheel hub

Checking the technical condition without removing it from the car

1. Remove the rear wheel.

2. Remove the rear left disc brake caliper assembly.

3. Remove the rear brake disc:

Place assembly marks on the rim and wheel hub.

Release the parking brake.
Turn the pad adjuster until the disc rotates freely, then remove the disc.

Install the parking brake pad adjustment plug to the rear disc.

4. Check the bearing clearance and hub runout:

Using a dial indicator, measure the play near the center of the wheel hub. Maximum clearance: 0.05 mm. If the gap exceeds the maximum allowable, replace the wheel hub.
Using a dial gauge, measure the runout on the surface of the hub on the outside of the wheel-to-hub bolt. Maximum permissible deviation: 0.08 mm for single-wheel drive vehicles, 0.06 mm for all-wheel drive vehicles. If the deviation exceeds the maximum permissible, replace the wheel hub.

Removal

Note

: The work order is the same for the right and left sides.

Below is the order of work for the left side.

1. Remove the rear wheel.

Ford Mondeo 4 hub replacement

In this video, a master from the SKF concern shows us. How can you replace the front wheel bearing yourself?

Remove the bearing retaining ring from the outer end of the hub assembly.

If necessary, seat the inner bearing race back onto the cage and firmly support the inner side of the hub assembly.10. Reinstall the hub assembly (see Removing and installing the front suspension hub assembly). Check the assembly for cracks and other mechanical damage, if necessary, replace defective components.

The bearing retaining ring must be replaced, regardless of its condition.

Lightly oil the outer race of the bearing and the hub flange shaft. 7. Securely support the hub assembly and place the bearing . Make sure the bearing is seated perpendicularly. The mandrel should rest only on the end surface of the outer race. 8. Having seated the bearing, secure it with a new retaining ring, ensuring that the latter fits correctly in its groove in the hub assembly. 9. Support the outer side of the hub assembly and seat the inner bearing race onto the hub flange journal. Press the bearing all the way into the bearing shoulders using a mandrel resting against the end of the inner race. Check the free rotation of the hub flange and remove excess lubricant. Using a mandrel of a suitable size, press the bearing out of the hub (the mandrel should only rest against the end of the inner race of the bearing). 5. Wipe the hub assembly thoroughly, polishing any burrs or protruding edges that could interfere with the installation of components.

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Axle hubs

Front axle hub

Note

: The work order for the left and right sides is the same. Below is the order of work for the left side.

Components

- Single use item.

— Universal grease.

— Do not lubricate threaded parts.

*a — For a wheel hub spline diameter of 26 mm.

*b — For wheel hub spline diameter 30 mm.

Front left wheel hub assembly.
Front left axle shaft nut.
Front brake disc.
Left front disc brake caliper assembly.
Front flexible hose.
Left lower front suspension arm No. 1 assembled.
Front left speed sensor.
Left tie rod end assembly.
Front shock absorber assembly with coil spring.
Left front drive shaft assembly.
Front brake protective cover.

Checking without removing from the car

1. Remove the front wheel.

2. Disconnect the front hose.

3. Disconnect the left front disc brake caliper assembly.

4. Remove the front disc.

5. Check the play of the front wheel hub bearing:

Using a dial gauge, check for play near the center of the front wheel hub assembly. If the play exceeds the maximum allowable, replace the front wheel hub assembly.

Note

: - Maximum value: 0.05 mm. — The dial indicator must be installed perpendicular to the surface on which measurements are taken.

Checking status

I think there is no point in talking about what a bearing is and what it consists of. Despite its rather modest size and simple design, it remains an extremely important element in the hub and entire chassis of the vehicle.

You can check the current condition of the hub bearing or wheel bearing with your own hands. Moreover, this procedure is carried out in the same way for many cars, including:

VAZ 2107;
DAEWOO Lanos;
Renault Logan;
Toyota Carina;
Niva Chevrolet;
VAZ 2110;
Samand (Iranian car);
SsangYong Kyron;
Gazelle;
Opel Cadet;
Niva 21214;
UAZ Patriot;
Renault Duster, etc.

But first, the driver must have a reason to check the element. The primary sign of possible problems is considered to be extraneous noise in the area of the front wheel.

If there are certain suspicions, and the noise indirectly confirms your theory, a mandatory check is required.

Moreover, self-diagnosis does not involve any particularly complex manipulations. This is easier than dealing with the knocking of valves on a hot engine, but at the same time more difficult than pumping the shock absorbers yourself.

Noises are produced by already worn bearings, to check which you should perform a few simple manipulations:

Place the machine on a flat, horizontal surface;
Secure the wheels using anti-roll bars;
Put the car on the handbrake;
Using a jack, lift the front wheel;
Install additional supports under the car to transfer the main weight;
Firmly grasp the hanging wheel;
In a horizontal plane, swinging toward and away from you, move the wheel;
If the bearing is in good condition, there will be no extraneous noise;
If the wheel bearing is in good working order, there should be no play;
Then remove the handbrake and simply spin the wheel.

During checks, no noises, creaks or knocks should occur. Otherwise, we are dealing with problematic and probably worn bearings.

Front and rear hub for Toyota Corolla

* Calculated based on Yandex Directory reviews

To buy a front or rear hub for a Toyota Corolla, will diagnostics show? The hub on Toyota Corolla can be assembled with a hub bearing, or separately.

You can find out exactly what is installed on the car using the VIN code from our managers. If the hub comes complete with a bearing, then you need to buy the hub bearing, and not the hub itself.

Although, if, when replacing a wheel bearing, it turns out that the seat is worn out, then you will have to buy the hub itself.

If the car is equipped with ABS, you must definitely clarify whether the ABS sensor is assembled with the Toyota Corolla hub or separately. Usually, the right and left hubs are no different.

However, when checking by VIN number of the car, it may be that the hub on one axle (front or rear) can be either symmetrical or asymmetrical. They differ in diameter.

They can also be visually identified by the hub bolt; an asymmetrical hub has an offset bolt. Also, the front and rear hub may differ in the number of teeth.

In the original, the front or rear hub of Toyota Corolla is installed either by FAG or SKF. Therefore, there is no point in overpaying for an original that is not actually one.

Toyota Corolla hub cost:

from 2000 rub.

from 2500 rub.

Buy Toyota Corolla hub:

from 20.00 to 10.00

send us a request to:
Whatsapp/Viber

The cost of the hub depends on the type, whether it is new or used, the used condition (mileage, degree of wear, etc.), the manufacturer, as well as availability in our warehouse or delivery time to our store.

Rating of hub manufacturers:

1. FAG (Germany)2. SKF (Sweden) 3. GMB (Japan) 4. Ruville (Germany)

5. SNR (France)

If the rear hub comes complete with a brake disc, then we recommend immediately replacing the brake disc and hub (hub bearing) assembly.

Changing the hub on such discs risks the fact that in 90% of cases, the seat for the hub in the brake disc will already be worn out. The new hub doesn't last long.

When to buy a hub:

- a hum that increases with increasing speed; - a noise similar to something rubbing against a wheel, especially when cold; - the so-called. “shuffling” according to wheel speed. At high speed it turns into a hum and howl; - clicks from the side of the wheel (bearings have fallen apart);

— metallic squeak (the hub is already worn out) — change it urgently.

When purchasing a hub from us, we will give a discount on replacement at our stations.

Replacing the rear hub of Toyota RAV4

Replacement of the rear hub in the form of a photo report on a Toyota RAV4 (RAV4 A20 4WD).

Some specifics about diagnosing the problem.

Wheel bearings usually manifest themselves primarily by a characteristic hum and/or play when checking the condition of the suspension. The hum is uniform, increases as the speed of movement increases, and intensifies with increasing load on the worn bearing; load is a key point in hub diagnosis.

To determine the right or left side, as well as to remove suspicions from the rear axle gearbox, we carry out a test in motion - we shake the steering wheel for variable loading of the right (in a left turn) and left (in a right turn) sides of the car, and change the force on the gas pedal - from intense acceleration before engine braking. A “sick” rear hub either makes more noise when turning with a load on it, or makes less noise when unloaded. Also, there is a slight change in the character of the sound when the traction changes, associated with loading/unloading of the rear axle during acceleration/braking. To exclude other elements of the transmission and engine, we change gears without changing the speed - the sound frequency should not change.

So, in this case, the rear right hub was determined. The case is already quite advanced - the hum changes clearly when driving over bumps, so obviously a replacement is necessary.

Downloading a book

After successfully completing the payment (by any method) and returning to the KrutilVertel store from the payment system website, you will be taken to the successful payment page:

The book you purchased will be in your personal account, from where you can always download it.

Problems when paying with bank cards

Sometimes difficulties may arise when paying with Visa/MasterCard bank cards. The most common of them:

There is a restriction on the card for paying for online purchases
A plastic card is not intended for making payments online.
The plastic card is not activated for making payments online.
There are not enough funds on the plastic card.

In order to solve these problems, you need to call or write to the technical support of the bank where you are served. Bank specialists will help you resolve them and make payments.

That's basically it. The entire process of paying for a book in PDF format on car repair on our website takes 1-2 minutes.

If you still have any questions, you can ask them using the feedback form, or write us an email at

Problems when paying with bank cards

Sometimes difficulties may arise when paying with Visa/MasterCard bank cards. The most common of them:

There is a restriction on the card for paying for online purchases
A plastic card is not intended for making payments online.
The plastic card is not activated for making payments online.
There are not enough funds on the plastic card.

In order to solve these problems, you need to call or write to the technical support of the bank where you are served. Bank specialists will help you resolve them and make payments.

That's basically it. The entire process of paying for a book in PDF format on car repair on our website takes 1-2 minutes.

If you still have any questions, you can ask them using the feedback form, or write us an email at

Replacing the RAV 4 wheel bearing

We removed the wheel, spray all the threads that we will turn: the drive, the nuts, on the mounting posts, on the steering tip and on the ball joints.

How to change a bearing yourself

Before work, it is worth carefully studying all its stages:

We jack up the car from the side of the faulty bearing, remove the wheel and, having access to the lock nut of the outer CV joint, unscrew it using a 30 mm socket. It is worth considering that when subjected to the highest loads, the nut can be very tightened; in this case, the wheel is put in place, the car is released from the jack, after which we engage first or second gear in the gearbox and with enormous force and an elongated wrench, it can be torn off.

Next, we proceed to dismantling the brake cylinder, why it will be useful to unscrew the two bolts that secure it from the inside of the hub with a 17 mm wrench, and using a flat-head screwdriver, carefully pressing the pads away from the disc, we remove this unit to the side.

We unscrew the nut securing the control tip from the steering knuckle, and using a special puller, squeeze it out of the seat, then we perform a related operation with the tip of the ball joint located at the bottom of the hub
The upper part of the steering knuckle is attached to the shock-absorbing strut of the suspension with 2 bolts, the lower of which regulates the descent - destruction of the car, mark its position and, having unscrewed these bolts, remove the entire hub assembly. We also remove the brake disc from it, secured with two screws.
Using a special puller, we press the front hub out of the inner race of the bearing, then remove the retaining rings from both sides, and with the same puller, we squeeze the old bearing out of its seat.
Before installing a new wheel bearing, we clean its seating area from old contaminants, carefully inspect it for possible damage, small chips and cracks, and if they are found, the steering knuckle needs to be changed, otherwise there is a possibility of its rapid breakdown.
We lubricate the bearing seat in the steering knuckle, which will greatly facilitate its pressing, install one retaining ring and mount the new part using a special puller until it clicks, after which the second retaining ring is inserted.
We clean, inspect for damage and, if there is none, lubricate the landing site of the front hub. Then, using a puller, we carefully press it into the inside of the new bearing and mount the entire assembly into its seat. After that, we carefully insert the splined flange of the drive, install the brake disc, caliper, ball joint and control tip, then tighten the new outer CV joint nut that comes with the repair kit for new parts, roll its edges into the locking grooves and put the wheel in place.

This completes all work on replacing the front wheel bearing. Also watch the video for a detailed analysis of replacing the front wheel bearing on VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115 cars: